Just a suggestion: When you see him "misbehaving" by chewing on 'less than ideal' items, offer him one of his toys and use the word "trade". In other words, 'chew on this instead', and when he accepts the toy - praise him. And when you see him get the toy on his own, praise him again. It could help him understand that certain toys are just for those times when you want to "rip someone's head off*".
One of the best strategies if you will be going out is to put the treats in the crate a short time before you leave and lock the dog out, so he can see them but not access them. Hopefully by the time you are ready to depart the dog will be anticipating getting into that crate and enjoying his treats! This can work very well and result in a dog that is looking forward to you leaving.
I did something similar with my dog's roller ball, loading it up and making him wait for it. This dog that formerly had separation anxiety would become impatient and sometimes baroo to tell me he wanted me to leave so that he could have his ball!
I leave my boy home for 1-2 hours regularly. If he is upset, he may chew on something, or find some personal item to either play with, or destroy. As long as you keep your valuables out of reach, it will be fine.
The issue isn't valuables. The issue is if he destroys and eats something that could kill him. Any dog that chews or destroys needs crating until he really is safe alone.
Stop with the free feeding... this is a dog that needs to be on a schedule. And a cup and a half might be too much for a 20lb dog. Try reducing it to a cup. I have also found that feeding 2x's a dog is better than once a day. I have never let my dogs free feed. Once he is on a schedule you can mostly determine when he should have to go... and then you take him out and stay out till he goes. A trick you can use (many don't like this but I will put it out there) is what people that show use. Insert a match in his bum half way.... This will stimulate him to go, when he does praise/treat him. And until he gets the idea, you will need to keep him crated or on leash. You can search the forum for other conversations about using a match to stimulate. Search for match trick
@jilliansquires Housetraining, you need to go back to potty training 101.... start all over again.... take her out "all" the time, after eating, sleeping playing, etc.....
The biting as you describe it is NOT normal behavior. Have you done any Obedience training with her? Work her mind?
And most important have you talked to her breeder?
I have worked with feral dogs in rescue who had never been on a leash, adults. Teaching loose leash walking isn't hard, but you need to back it with the "leave it" command. Mary's site is so simply it will make you feel faint. And it works. No pop and jerk, just good positive training. The lessons are on the left, other issues on the right.
@betsy - sounds to me like you are doing everything right.... the pup and cats need to make their own peace... and sounds like it is going as good as expected. The pup will learn the body language as she gets older of the cats... and yes, agree with Debra... good that the cats done run... and if the pups gets "swiped" by the kitties... what a better way to learn to back off...
I have used wire for about 40 years. A good quality wire is safe. Obviously if you have a strong dog who is determined to break out, you may need to go to the uber expensive crates that are almost solid metal. Few dogs need those. As Pat said, no top means no dog. They laugh at 6 feet, much less 40 inches. They can jump or climb easily. Plastic ones are more easily chewed unless the solid ones... which block view and air.
Of my four recent basenjis, only one really yodelled and do so often (whenever I was too slow in getting him dinner 🙂 ). My current female does not yodel, not even tries, but she does occasionally make other sounds (they sound horrible too, like a hawk just grabbed a rabbit). My first two not only never yodelled, they never made a sound.
I've been doing rescue and breeding (not Basenjis, and not for 20 yrs now)... and I have to say that among responsible trainers, rescues, breeders and professional veterinary behaviorists, you won't find any who will say under 8 weeks is okay for any breed... and for many, 10 to 12 weeks is recommended. It is in fact illegal to take puppies under 8 weeks from some states and it should be in all of them. Call a few dozen rescues and ask them how many animals they deal with that have issues started from being placed too young. It is good you are working on things, just hopefully the physical responses won't continue. No breed needs to be swatted or even mildly hurt for training. Basenjis even less so than many. It hurts your relationship with the puppy, and you are punishing a baby for being a baby... there is no "rebellious thing"... just normal behavior you have to patiently train away from.
Be careful on over using treats... mix it up with joyous praise and a rub under the chin and pat the back. If you do treats only they can think if they stop getting treats they might think it's bad behavior and change the potty behavior, but by mixing it up they still get the praise and reward with a good job, also always use their name with praise, and never with discipline. I'm reading this book about raising and training basenji's and it's also what my folks said they did that worked with their basenji
We found that our Lela got used to peeing outside very fast - just over a week if I remember correctly. We started out with lots of newspapers on the floor, making it less every day until one piece remained. I recall only one or two mishaps inside.
The rule of thumb I was taught is that a puppy can only wait an amount of time equal to their age in months plus one. So, at eight weeks old (two months), your pup can hold it three hours tops (1 month + 1 month + 1). You should probably schedule a couple of potty visits outside during the night, even though it will be a pain.
When we got Cosette, my wife and set a timer for three hours and three hours beyond that. We took turns taking her outside. At twelve weeks old, we were able to lengthen the time between breaks to 4 hours, then 5 hours at sixteen weeks, etc. It's tough, but it will keep your home (and her crate) clean!
@colemangirly After watching those 2 videos.....I say "Why not?" That one on the bottom was just 100% awesome! He knew how to start it & had to work a bit harder to stop it but he did it!! If you find one & get your dog to do that, I hope you can take a video of it & post it on here!! I'd love to see it!!