"In order to get along with a Basenji, you have to be at least half as smart as the dog!"
Kathy, looks like it started to upload, then stopped. It will be a problem if the image is too large. And you don't have to start a new thread to try again, just edit your original post. (click the three dots next to the thumbs down icon to get the edit function). When your picture uploads successfully you should see it appear in the preview pane.
I have found lots of different "triggers" for howling. For some, it's easy to start them by howling yourself. For yodels, some will when they are cheerful, but some definitely will when frustrated. My Perry would vocalize if I delayed giving him his much desired roller ball with treats.
Don't allow the biting. When she does it, make her stop. A gentle but firm "bear hug" to restrain her should work. If she struggles and tries to bite, hold on until she quits it, then release with praise. She may immediately bite again. Repeat until she gives it up. Her mother would not allow biting to go on, neither should you. It is unacceptable, and she needs to know that. In my experience, "yelping" or indicating pain vocally encourages the behaviour in some dogs. Think "squeaky toy"!
@debradownsouth This morning he feed her himself by hand, however she only came and ate when he looked AWAY as mentioned so thank you! It's progress!
We went out with her today and did a few stops and we noticed she's reacting his way to all the men and she's fine with the women
That's a big clue. Looking at her, particularly directly into her eyes, will likely be read as dominance or aggression and frightens her. When he does look in her direction it should be with unfocused eyes. Eventually when she relaxes with him you can teach eye contact. Clicker training is good for this.
I like wide martingale collars. They can't back out of them and the collar gives you more control without risking damage to the neck if they do pull. Look for Whippet or Greyhound collars. The one I used is three inches wide and tapers to the back. But bottom line, the reason dogs pull is that it is rewarding to them......they get closer to whatever is attracting them. So stopping until the leash is slack will work (if you have patience), changing direction every time the leash tightens will work, targetting will work. Many roads lead to Rome. You can experiment and find out what works best for you, but it isn't good to let the dog reinforce the habit, which is what makes it difficult to sort this problem out when you also need to give him exercise! One solution is to give him exercise with one harness or collar and practice your loose leash walking with another, until he "gets it".
IMO, retractable leads teach the dog to pull. They are also dangerous. Ask a vet. They treat many "hit by car" injuries suffered by dogs that were on a retractable when the owner didn't react quickly enough. There is also the potential for injury when the dog wraps the leash around a person or another dog. And in many places they are illegal, i.e. the leash laws specify 6 foot maximum leash length.