"In order to get along with a Basenji, you have to be at least half as smart as the dog!"
I had a Border Collie for 15 years. He was a farm dog, not a house dog. I had Basenjis in the house. These breeds are polar opposites. A good Border Collie (and there are a lot of not so good ones out there) will do anything for you if they can figure out what you want. No treats required. My boy would work his heart out for me and be ecstatic if I praised him. He wasn't the slightest bit interested in food if there was work to be done. OTOH, my Basenjis were all about "what's in it for me?" If whatever I wanted wasn't interesting or rewarding to them they would ignore me if they could. They are endearing little charmers (and they know it!), but their attitude is more cat than dog. Smart, hell yes! Obedient, not so much. They are, however, up for a challenge, and if you can engage their minds they will surprise you with what they can learn.
The blue eyes definitely suggest Husky, although they are common in Border Collies and Aussies. Siberian Huskies don't bark much, either. The curly tail certainly makes me wonder. And the short coat. This is one I would want to do a DNA test on, as the results might be very interesting!
Just had a thought. What about Dalmatian? Short hair, can have blue eyes.
How would you recommend enforcing that aggression is not okay? And I have considered that he was in pain but when I put pressure on him in different areas he doesn’t react or care so I don’t think it’s that.
How are you responding to his aggression now? It's important that he doesn't learn he can back you off by growling or biting, as this will reinforce the behaviour. I would finesse things when you can, avoid doing the actions that are his triggers, but if push comes to shove you need to restrain him and make it clear that you will pick him up (or whatever he is objecting to), even if it means dealing with a bite. In this situation I have always "bear hugged" the dog, restricted his movement until he stops struggling/growling, then praise and release.
My boy did not like being moved from a comfortable place and would object if pushed. Better to just leave him alone when he's comfortable, or call him to me, rather than pick him up, but if I wanted to I would sit beside him, pat him, and gradually put my arm around him. Usually I got no objections when I used this approach. Basenjis generally do not like to be forced and will stand on their dignity if they perceive someone is being "rude" to them. Often a little tact is all it takes to avoid a confrontation.....
At that age it could be that he is maturing, but I would wonder about thyroid issues. The blood work should have given you information if your vet is experienced with Basenjis. A full thyroid panel and a vet with Basenji experience could help to tell you whether that is the source of your problem, and I think that might be the place to start. A low normal reading can spell trouble in a Basenji.
Just to elaborate on my previous comment......if you want to equate yipping with litter mate behaviour, then consider that that makes you seem like a litter mate, not an adult. Adults do not yip when pups nip them. If the pup is persisting and annoying them, any vocalization will likely be a growl or snarl, possibly backed up with pinning the pup down with a foreleg. Do you want your pup to consider you his equal, or an adult to be respected? I know I prefer the latter, and "no" is the human equivalent of a growl. It says "don't do that again".
Try the way we trained our Cardigan Welsh Corgi Duncan to not nip/bite. Every time your dog nips your ankles, make a high pitched yip (like an injured puppy) and turn away.
This may work with some dogs, but Basenjis all too often react to it as they would a squeaky toy......and it actually reinforces them to continue nipping. I do not recommend it. I also know few Basenjis who want to "kiss". None of my five wanted to lick my face and would only do it if trained to "give a kiss".
Tell him "no" when he does it and immediately physically prevent him from doing it. If he comes right back, remove him again. Eventually the penny will drop. Take care not to hurt him, and when he desists praise and/or treat. Be consistent. Any biting should never be tolerated and the dog must learn that the behaviour is unacceptable.
You need to teach her to go into the crate on command. Does she exhibit separation anxiety once she is confined? Her behaviour suggests that she has developed an aversion to crating and is telling you in the only way she knows how. If she is claustrophobic she may indeed be afraid, as fear is often the reason for aggression.
Clicker training would help in teaching her to enter the crate on command. It's usually an easy thing to teach. But until you accomplish that, you can try taking some really desirable treat and putting it in the crate while she watches, then close the door and do not allow her access. Hopefully she will become interested in obtaining the treat, and will enter the crate when you open the door. Do not slam the door shut on her! Allow her to eat the treat and exit the crate. Rinse, repeat.....
Do this many times at odd intervals, and combine it with your usual preparations for leaving. With luck, after a time she will reliably enter the crate. At this point, name the behaviour, e.g. say "kennel" just before you open the door to admit her. You can then switch to the command first, followed by the treat when she complies. After lots of practice, try closing the door momentarily, then letting her out. Baby steps. Rushing things will set you back.