@pawla there is a spot between toe and an small area on his paw. The spot between his toe is like a little cut. Tough to really see both sites well. he keeps his paw balled up when we try to inspect them.
You really need to get a good look at what you are dealing with and I think getting a vet to check it would be your best option at this point. Lick granulomas are more often on the leg, but could get started on a paw with excessive licking, which would be my concern if he doesn't leave it alone. Depending on what the problem is, you might need to medicate and have him wear the "cone of shame" until it heals.
still cant upload photos
Just make sure they are not too big. Are your photos on line or on your computer? If they are on your computer then you just click on the icon second from the left at the top of the compose window and you should be able to browse to find the picture you want. If it's too big most photo programs will allow you to downsize them. There are also free apps on line to help you resize photos.
LOL, yep, that sounds about right. We used to have one young girl who would just repeat her dogs name over and over again. smh I didn't have the heart to explain that her dog was entirely clueless because she wasn't telling it to do anything.
Perhaps his name was her recall? Dogs only attribute meaning to words because we teach them what we mean, and many people I know will call their dog's name and expect the dog to either come or stop what they are doing and pay attention. Either way, it is no worse than bawling "come" as the dog continues to ignore you, which I have seen many times. Perhaps she was astute enough not to poison her recall word when she knew it wouldn't be effective?
You could put boots on him, either all round or on that one paw, until it heals. He won't like the boot and will likely try to remove it, so you would need to supervise whenever he was wearing it. Other than restricting his access to the pool area for awhile that's the best I can suggest. As far as him cleaning the foot, you need to watch that he doesn't create a lick granuloma.
The problem with off leash parks is that it's all fun and games until suddenly it isn't. Which is why, IMO, you should not have your dog loose at a park unless you have a really solid recall and are paying attention to what is going on, instead of chatting to other owners while things are gradually escalating. Yes, most of the time dogs will sort out their problems and nobody gets hurt, but ask a vet and you will find that dogs can and do get injured at dog parks and at doggie daycares when supervision is lax, and even when it isn't. Multiple dog families can also experience a situation that "works until it doesn't", and in my experience Basenjis as a breed and particularly the bitches can definitely hold a grudge, and if they get into it "for real", generally they don't quit until somebody gets hurt.
You should try to redirect the biting behaviour to "legal" things, like his toys. Otherwise he may think it is O.K. to bite and perhaps shred pillows or furniture, so I would definitely discourage that, but otherwise letting him get it out of his system is a good idea. As he gets older you may see less of this behaviour. You don't want him to think it is legal to nip you, either, especially if he gets rough at all, because these things can escalate. A gentle, inhibited bite is O.K. but be careful he knows it isn't allowed to go beyond that.
Every Basenji I have owned liked to sleep in, so to me that is totally normal. Likewise, having bursts of wild energy. Biting can occur if the dog gets just too wound up, so try to avoid playing with him when he is over threshold. When you say biting, do you mean his toys? Or people? Play biting, or serious grabbing on? I have had an overly excited Basenji tear clothing, and that is more than past time to put an end to playing with him. You do need to discourage anything that reinforces nipping or biting.
What kind of playing? Try to avoid anything that gets him too wound up and excited. Probably best for now that your son does not engage in play, but does become the source of good things, e.g. giving Rocky his meal or taking him for a walk. If the biting happens in another context it definitely bears watching. Perhaps Rocky has had a bad experience with someone who reminds him of your son. How old is Rocky? Do you know anything about his past?
We got him at 8 weeks old, so he has no trauma causing him to be so fearful at the vet. I can handle him fine at home, using treats If he doesn’t like what I’m doing. He is fine with car rides and loves hiking. It’s when we pull into the parking lot of the Vet, he Completely loses it. He is irrational. Then on the way home, he is quiet and knows he’s going home.
What has been his previous experience at the vet? Did you normally accompany him into the exam room and how did he react to routine exams, injections, etc.? I am guessing his anxiety has been increasing, but did that happen suddenly or over time he became worse about going to the vet? The other issue is that you are expecting him to be difficult. Don't make the mistake of feeding his anxiety by trying to sooth him. Be as "matter of fact" as you can and try to ignore his antics if you can. One thing you can work on is to drive to the vet, into the parking lot, and sit there for a bit. Then give him a treat (if he will eat it) and leave. Repeat until he gets bored with the whole exercise, then move up to taking him out of the car and going for a walk in the vicinity. You should gradually be able to at least arrive with a calm dog if he doesn't know when he might actually be going into the clinic.....and I would walk him to the door without entering many times, turning away to go for a walk. Once things are back to normal, take him inside and sit for a few minutes, then leave. This will be a long process but should eventually result in a more manageable dog when vet visits are necessary....
Agree with tanza, convincing him that good things can happen at the vet would likely defuse this situation, but as noted, it isn't a good time for this type of conditioning. I am wondering what has happened with this dog to be so fearful? Of course, most dogs do not like veterinary visits, but usually the problem doesn't get beyond some loose stools and trembling if they are very frightened. Are there any mobile vets in your area? That might be a solution in the short term. You do need to work on your ability to control him. In an emergency, your husband might not be available. Do you have any difficulty handling him at home, e.g. picking him up, trimming toenails, examining his mouth and brushing his teeth, etc?
Unfortunately this will likely take some time. There are some options with equipment, but training is the best long term solution. However if immediate control is what you need, I would recommend the Sporn head halter. Unlike others, it does not turn the dog's head, but brings the dog's nose down. My neighbour has one for their Golden Doodle, and it instantly turned that dog from a bad puller into something her young kids could control.
The excitement at sight of other dogs will take time. Try to redirect his attention to something else, go in a different direction, and keep any contact to a long distance until you start to see some results. Without knowing why he reacts like this it's hard to give advice. I had a boy who had similar issues with some other dogs, but only with close approaches, and mostly I just tried to avoid the situation, but if I couldn't I would ask for a sit, and wait for the other dog to pass.
Edited to ad, personally I think a wide martingale collar is the safest and best tool for walking a Basenji, based on personal experience. They cannot back out of it and because it does tighten when they pull, there is some incentive not to do so. However, you cannot beat training for stopping pulling, and the best approach I know is to not proceed forward when the leash is tight. It can take a lot of patience to achieve the desired result, but most dogs will eventually figure it out if you are consistent. Another approach is to teach them to target (either a target or your hand), with lots of repetition so you can bring them to heel without yanking them around.
One of my Basenjis had a mild session of this. Happened at night, and scared the daylights out of me! He had the rapid eye movement thing happening. I called the vet and he diagnosed it over the phone. By the next day you wouldn't have known anything had happened, and Sunny did not have a recurrence. I was hugely relieved that he was back to normal.
But I have one caveate - do not 'drag' the dog, she will just dig in, lie down and you won't be able to budge her. And you could cause hilarity in passers-by.
A short, very sharp, yank on the lead to get her on her feet and moving. Then relax the lead. If she lies down again, another sharp yank to get her up, and relax it. Until she learns you will go on doing this until she does 'come quietly' - follows you home !
Yes, this is better than my advice, and more along the lines of what I would actually do. I was hesitant to suggest it because you risk the person not understanding or applying the technique correctly, most often because of hesitancy, lack of decisive action.
I agree about dog trainers, even those that are Basenji savvy. As you say, they need to teach you to train your dog. When I was young I trained dogs for people. The dogs would do whatever I had taught them, for me. When the owner took over the results were less certain! Sometimes the training stuck, but with a wily dog it didn't take long before they figured out the owner wasn't really in command, and then things would fall apart. Best if the owner applies the training, with direction if necessary from a "coach".
@eeeefarm Once we are home she is fine, a happy girl, yes that is when she gets fed, right after we get home from the walk. After she ate she then begged all evening for my attention and to go for another walk. I love the idea of going past the house during her walk!!
It's a tactic we use with horses, for the opposite reason. If you are schooling, they want to be finished with it and leave the ring. Therefore it is useful to never ride directly to the gate when you are done, but to go past it, then either dismount or turn back to exit. It can save inexperienced riders from a "gate dasher" situation that could be dangerous.
If your actions become too predictable, a canny critter will find a way to take advantage. Your job is to think one step ahead of them, and find ways to keep them guessing about your intent.