To upload an image, the up arrow one.

I am unclear what your post means. Are you saying your dog's pedigree has no bitches that were champions, but all the males were champions? It might help if you posted a picture of the pedigree. Or are you saying you looked at their pictures and think the males have champion looking heads but the females don't.

Is she registered? Have you talked to her breeder about your questions?

As for head size difference, not sure where you are finding that standard. Australia uses the FCI standard ( http://ankc.org.au/Breed/Detail/128 ) which does not differentiate between male or female heads.

Head And Skull:
Flat, well-chiselled and medium width, tapering towards nose, with slight stop. Distance from top of head to stop slightly more than from stop to tip of nose. Side lines of skull taper gradually towards mouth, giving a clean-cheeked appearance. Fine and profuse wrinkles appearing on forehead when ears pricked, side wrinkles desirable but not exaggerated into dewlap. Wrinkles more noticeable in puppies, but because of lack of shadowing, not as noticeable in tri-colours; black nose desirable.<<

Markings and other things can make heads look different, but a disproportionate head isn't desirable on a male or female. Hopefully a breeder will comment further but without a photo of your bitch, I am not sure what help you can get regarding correctness.

@Cafu LOL on cutting leash.. I am certain they have retractable scissors in their gums. I have had mine cut leashes and cut straps to clothing that were so smooth, nothing else but scissors explains it (okay or razor blades). Which is why I put these on the collars... snap/ o ring, chain, o ring, leash

@Cafu said in Leaving her alone???!!:

Hi,
I leave my boy home for 1-2 hours regularly. If he is upset, he may chew on something, or find some personal item to either play with, or destroy. As long as you keep your valuables out of reach, it will be fine.
Tom

The issue isn't valuables. The issue is if he destroys and eats something that could kill him. Any dog that chews or destroys needs crating until he really is safe alone.

Teaching your dog a solid COME is critical. You might also consider some necessary punitive response, such as fairly high voltage scat mats at the doors.
Never ever chase, that's a game. Also, make sure he is microchipped in case he gets the collar off. There are, btw, embedded GPS so you only charge the locator.

I had a basenji whose aggression toward almost any dog on earth, even those she grew up with, were legendary. Her favorite target was my chow/coyote, who thankfully never tried to hurt her-- just get her off. She finished her championship with a 5 pt major with stitches on her head. The judge said to the handler "nice stitches." Her only friend was my male rottweiler. She semi tolerated her niece. I have never loved a dog as much in my life, but she was horribly animal aggressive. So after her championship, I spayed her. So yes, there are dog aggression issues not uncommon at all in the breed.

That said, the fact that your dog was hurt may be the root of the over the top to the point of even going after puppies (typically should not be seen as a threat.. so I don't agree with Pat. Not liking, snarking at pups.. sure. AGGRESSIVELY going after them... no). And for any type of aggression being on a leash makes it worse, but you have no choice. What you need to do for his and other animals' safety is get him used to walking with a basket muzzle. As far as needing exercise running free, you do know that many dogs live long happy lives without being off leash? Teaching to run with a bike or other activity, finding a friend who has a yard they'll let you access to play fetch or use a lure toy etc... there are ways to exercise without being loose around other animals.

However, your dog's aggression is a sign of severe stress and he can't be happy. What I suggest is you consider a behaviorist to work, not with making him dog-friendly... but with learning to ignore other dogs. You can do some of the work on your own if you are dedicated and willing to slowly work on it. The process is much like any work on teaching a dog to "leave it" and de-escalate. The steps are very simple for desensitization.

First, work at home on leave it command. A lot. Until you have it 100 percent. Mary's lessons are great for general training. The top is your concern right now, but exercise is both mental and physical. So the 2nd link is one way to do the mental ... links on right and left.

http://www.clickerlessons.com/leaveit.htm
http://www.clickerlessons.com/index.htm

Start working on him with a basket muzzle and walking. It is critical you can get him calm and that the basket muzzle allows you to give him a small treat and that he can drink in it. Once he is calm with it around home and dog free walks, you're ready to begin desensitizing.

At least 3 times a week, get help with people with dogs.. you can go to a park where dogs are NOT running loose and have a friend help you. Tell people to not let their dogs come within even about 20 feet of your dog, but to walk by without looking and throw a small treat. Do a few a day. Come back and keep at that distance until he stops going ballistic. Move about 4 feet closer (you can even mark the distance). Repeat process. You should be getting pretty quick response to "leave it" by now. Use leave it, treat yourself as you see a dog approaching. Have them move closer... repeat. Keep this up until they are able to get within about 6 feet without reacting. At this point, you want one honking great kind of treat... steak, chicken, apple (my dogs think its better than steak!), whatever his most prized food is.. but keep it still fairly small. You want the dogs to move closer, but you now will be the source of all treats using "leave it" so he doesn't look a them. By this point, you should have far less reaction.

Now, it's your turn to walk. Engage the buddy system, but with YOU walking your dog past sitting so standing but not moving, people with dogs. This should go much faster. Once you can get within 5 feet without response, you move to both walking past each other about 10 feet out, then move closer.

The goal of course is not going to make him like other dogs, is not going to make him okay off lead around them, but getting him to at least tolerate will make his and your life better.

IF his only issue is dog reaction, then at this point you are ready to talk to obedience teachers about taking him to a class. Even though you should by now have mastered all the basics, his socialization by working around other dogs in a confined setting is great. If he has other issues, then really consider a behavior therapist, maybe even prozac. If the dogs are it, then it's simply making the next several months your life working toward him unlearning his response is what is needed.

@Darcy I am so sorry. :( That had to have been so sudden and hard.

How lovely! She certainly looks like a social butterfly! Alert, pleasant expression. Welcome to the group and thank you for sharing pictures. We love pictures. :)

@nodles91 I really don't let my dogs choose their food. If it is good quality, I get it. Most dogs really won't starve, they will eat what you have. Honestly, I wouldn't work on a food change while dealing with the pottying issue, just cut him down to two set meals a day. He may go hungry a few meals but then he will learn to eat on schedule. That should help control when he has to potty. He shouldn't need to potty more than once or twice a day.

Then, I would use the match stick method. outside, in your yard in a spot you want him to go. A gal told me instead, she uses wax birthday candles or small Shabbat ones, clear/white, instead. I hadn't thought of it, but that would work great. While there are a few "I don't care, my feet are wet"... biologically most cannot resist the urge to push it out and with it poop. When he poops, instant praise, then a short walk for reward.

Putting a belly band usually is to stop marking, but it has the advantage of making peeing in the house a "self anointing" thing. While getting him to mark to empty his bladder (and hollow leg) works, again you'll be using your life up with it. Put a little flavoring in his water, like chicken stock, to get him to drink a LOT so he has to go. Go out often, sing his praise when he pees, not marking. Reward with a great (but small) treat.. like a small bite of actual meat.

But also, get him tested for a UTI or any issues, even thyroid. Make sure you aren't working uphill against a medical problem. It doesn't sound medical, but it's always good to be sure.

https://www.cdc.gov/campylobacter/outbreaks/puppies-9-17/index.html

Multistate Outbreak of Multidrug-Resistant Campylobacter Infections Linked to Contact with Pet Store Puppies

Okay so here is a dog you need to put on a strict feeding schedule. Give him food, after 15 mins pick it up. Give it again at least 10 hours later. Same thing, 15 mins, pick up.. no food til breakfast. Not wild about rachel ray's but the issue is the free feeding. You cannot get a set bowel movement with free feed... or as set.

If you are leashing him to you, try a belly band so that he pees, it's him getting wet. A loose dog will tear them off, but if you have control, he can't.

I know it's not comforting, but the "I'd rather die or explode" than go in the rain/wet ground " is common. If you have to get an indoor or covered potty area, that is better than going everywhere.