Welcome group. I laugh about dogs being ruled out because the poster says not common there. We've been told our Samoyed must not be one, or certainly not a purebred because they aren't common here. But identifying by looks also gets some comical results. A dna isn't major proof, but it helps to get an idea of not only behavior, but also health issues.
Ckick to Calm"
Click to Calm is by Karen Pryor. I admire her work, but I don't agree with this one. Dogs are leash aggressive or leash reactive for many reasons. I'd rather go back to step one, teaching loose leash walking, "look at me" , down stays and other commands and training that get the dog to do what you want through positive training. Having a dog pulled around can create MORE reactivity.
You have put Nova through massive changes, plus she has massive hormone changes. It's no unusual at all for intact bitches to fight, get territorial, etc.
IMO, far better to crate for a couple of months until things settle down than have an actual fight from which their relationship may never recover. Yes, keep the crate in your room at night, but give her yummy treats, a special toy etc so she does not see it as being punished. Talk pleasantly to her, up voice "crate time" and work on being calm with her. Exercise her a lot.
When this is over, work a LOT on socialization. Biting is a quick route to being sued and dog put down. If she will bite your little sister, she is liable to seriously bite a stranger.
Work a lot on obedience... learning down/stay (I can tell Moose, our Samoyed, "timeout" from anywhere in the house and he immediately comes to lie next to me or even under my chair.), leave it, etc are critical.
Spay/neuter or leave intact, and when, ... all the data isn't in. I think you need to really read the research and make your own decisions. But I certainly would wait until 2 or 3 or not at all. And realize even then, both can have deadly consequences. IOW, it's your dog and choice as you'll be the one carrying the loss if it goes bad.
My big concern for long cycles is pyometra. The longer the cervix is open, the long bacteria has to enter and cause an infection.
Have you talked to your breeder? Seems like she should have told you. Call and ask.
Please check the Basenji Club breeder's list:
Sadly, most isn't exaggerating... it is fairly realistic preparation. If you need an easy dog, a dog that is easy to train, on that won't challenge you or look for alternate ways to do what you said literally without actually complying, this isn't the dog for you.
The upside: Waking up to sayblee's nose gently touching mine to wake me up. The "not dog" smell. They eye contact and feeling of companionship more than a pet. Watching the cogs turn as they figure things out. Gaining their trust and love so they are willing to work with you.
Consider fostering one for a few weeks up to 2 mons and get a close person view of what it is like.
There is NO BREED OF DOG ON EARTH that is hypoallergenic. Period.
I totally disagree with "keep the dog outside" but the rest may help. Try being around the dog or several. See how you can tolerate it.
I am glad to hear of her improvement. Sometimes we live with dogs and don't see the changes they start so slow. It's good to make it a habit to actually inspect them monthly. I hope she keeps improving but as Sally said, too much weight gain isn't good.
You could do a DNA test to get some ideas. I don't see Basenji, but I've seen mixes that the bitch is known to be one breed and the pups don't look like they could be related to her. Your dog looks like a small Lurcher, but that's probably the terrier I'm connecting with. Whatever, that's one happy dog.
Your post... your words, no interpretation. Don't blame others for your writing.
"I would recommend delaying the decision, if:
This is your first Basenji.
You don't have experience with breeding (any type of dog).
You are considering breeding as a way to make money.
You are involved in any competitive events (showing, agility, lure coursing, etc.)."
I'm old, and I've poured over the changing research since before the internet. The push for spay/neuter by vets and anyone, actually, bothers me. There is absolutely no hard and fast rule. (Though suggesting you should even consider not spaying so you can make money being a backyard breeder is really disturbing for responsible owners.) There are health pros and cons and the bottom line there are life-threatening dangers either way. As for age, mammary cancer is almost zero if you spay before the first heat, still greatly reduced before 2nd, and no difference if you let her have 2 heats. You can help by checking each nipple each month (8 on the 8 -- dogs generally have 8 nipples, so they started the idea based on that). Even found early, though, it can still be a death sentence. BUT there are also growth plate and other issues, even temperament, with early spaying (prior to a year or 2). No one but you gets to decide which way you want to go because it will be you holding her if the choice turns out to be bad for her. And you won't know unless it happens.
Some breeds (Samoyeds being one of them) have high rates of diabetes in females who aren't spayed prior to first heat.
There are non-health issues. Can you absolutely keep male dogs away from her when she is in heat? Do you live in a house with children or someone who cannot be trusted to keep her safe? Are you willing to deal with neighbors' howling male dogs (though there are sprays for where she pees as well as wipes to help keep the hormone smell from broadcasting her status) and roaming loose dogs visiting your yard?
Too many vets seem programmed to believe clients are idiots. They said yearly vaccines even though proven unnecessary because owners wouldn't get health checks otherwise. They push spay/neuter because we're too stupid to keep our dogs from mating. Talk to your vet, but make your own decision.
I admit that the older I am the less I believe in spay/neuter. But that's for my own situation and abilities.
Like eeeefarm suggested, lots more meet & greets should help. If you can find a place with few dogs and get different owners to just walk by, starting out at a distance far enough to not be a danger, then slowly getting closer. The more times in a day you can do it, the better. Hopefully she will get tired of the theatrics. Happy up tone when praising her, use kibble for treats for now. Start out sitting somewhere and have her still and sitting. Then standing. Next walking in the opposite direction.
Keep in mind she has only been with you less than 4 months, so she's really just settling in and building trust in you. Be patient. If that's the only times she is distressed, then if you have to walk really early and late to avoid most "dog traffic", until she has a few more months to settle. If she is distressed over other things, talk with your vet about a short term trial of prozac. It sounds like other dogs are the only issue. The goal is to decrease her reactiveness... it isn't to make her a social butterfly. And bless you for adopting her.
We learn the hard way a lot of time. I'm glad you are here on the forum where long-time breeders and owners can help you. I moved from GA after almost 25 years (I'm now in Israel). Sadly the info on Harmony Hounds given here is correct. I'm glad you got this puppy because you want to be informed and will take care of him. I'll be curious to know if other littermates appear or if he's the only one that matched the stud so they couldn't be registered without the other male dogs being tested to determine parentage. (Yes, you can use more than one stud in a litter. https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/dog-breeding/stud-double/ )
If your pup is a carrier, it's just info with no chance of developing Fanconi. However, if he has it, then it's good to start watching diet now. The earlier you know, the better chances for a longer, healthier life.