Get your dog used to a muzzle at home . Basket muzzles are the least confining . There are some things that dogs do not get to be the boss , and vet visits and vaccines are some of them . Make the muzzle training and tiny steps . Showed the dog the muzzle and let it get close to it give it a treat and praise, show the muzzle, when the dog comes to you, treat and praise . Once the dog is used to seeing the muzzle then you touch the dog with the muzzle or possible just lightly put over the nose and then take back . You have to keep building on this until you're able to put the muzzle on the dog and build up time until the dog is not reactive to muzzle . Sedation is a risk of death however small each time you do it. Like the others I cannot imagine allowing of it to give my dog drugs to pull blood.
My oldest basenji was 13. Hopefully your dog will make it far beyond that..
It's always good to read about dogs with issues getting into the right home. You are most certainly doing things right.
So this is a 3rd home and a lot of continual changes. The goal is to make experiences positive. I suggest one thing at a time, building on what you are already doing. I wouldn't wait for a noise to be over to cheerfully say "good noise" so he knows it's the bark/car/other loud noises that you like, not their stopping.
- Start SLOW, break it down. First is the collar/halter issues. It helps if you have a harness that needs minimal fussing with-- over his head, legs in, snap shut. If you have someone to help, pick him up and do it so he can't fight much. If not, don't bother with treats... use praise and a very matter-of-fact tone. I would spend 3 or 4 days putting it on him, "GOOD BOY".. take it off. Do it every hour or 2. He'll eventually get bored of the energy expenditure and accept the reality.
2, Since being outside is important for you, and it's good for him, that might be a good place to start teaching him that you are the giver of good stuff.
At what point does he stress about outside? Once you are out the door, or going to it?
If he's anticipating and stresses once you put a leash on him, put a leash on and walk around the house. Sit in different rooms, pet, up talk, after no more than 10 mins, treat and let go.
Do this until he's comfortable, then have a chair near the door and make that your final stop.
Once comfortable with that, open the door and look out with him. Next step is sitting a chair outside. Then sitting the chair in the grass outside. Treats and praise. Next walk him to the road, come back, sit in the chair, pet and praise, go in and remove the harness. Slowly extend the distance.
Note on nails... Dremels are great, but I'd start with one toe at a time. If you do one every few hours, you can get one paw done the first day; 2nd day do 2 nails each time. By the 3rd day the nails will be done. Soon you'll be able to do all of them at once. Or not. Sadly there are some dogs for whom doing nails is a fight to the death. If all else fails, just pay the vet's office to do them, or cut holes in a pillow case like they do cats, drop him in it and hold in air so he can't move and do one foot at a time.
Dogs have been diagnosed with OCD for a very long time. They've been comparing it to an autistic-like disorder and are now actually working on genetic studies, particular looking at fragile-X.
What you are doing works for your family. There are many things I would do from the beginning to make things better rather than giving in and letting him set all rules. But that you have lived with the dog this long is a testament to your dedication to him.
There is no way on earth I would return the pup to the breeder. In fact I'd be reporting her and the condition of her animals!
You would be in violation of contract and could be sued. That would have been your decision.
Having bred dogs, I know that the cost of actually getting the puppy back can be beyond what most breeders can afford to do. If I believed the pup would be harmed, as a breeder or owner, I'd do everything I could.
That said, having breeders I trust vouch for the breeder, I can only hope that the buyer sits down and seriously rethinks the truthfulness of their posts. The pup was returned, is in a new home, and I would hope if the buyer honestly evaluates their comments and realizes only suspicious not backed up with facts that they will do right and delete this entire thread.
I'm no ashamed or upset with posters... we go on what we are told. Should we assume everyone lies and not support them? In life, we usually don't get a fair 2-sided argument. But I am convinced this is not a byb, simply a puppy needing a more experienced home and owners being overwhelmed.
@tanza I agree, smaller isn't a runt. Abnormally small is a runt.
I have never seen stats on runts in basenjis. But I do know they've done research on runts and conception times.
Bitches release eggs once. So yes, you could have fertilization 24 hrs difference, but not much more. Research shows that it has very little impact.
Runts often are ones with genetic/health issues, or placement issues, and sometimes failure to get colostrum in the critical first 4 hrs or even 12, making them open to infections that can slow growth (and is a part of many fading puppies).
"Why do litters have runts?
A dog’s uterus is Y-shaped, and the puppy that develops in the middle of the uterus is normally the farthest from the mothers blood supply and receives fewer nutrients.
So, in a sense, the puppy in the middle is “eating” less than the others, which leads to smaller size, less strength, and in some cases, even health problems."
"Was the Runt Conceived Later Than His Littermates?
Probably not. Runt puppies most likely are the same age as their littermates but had poor placentation. Bitches release all their eggs over a 24-hour span. Even if the conception of that small pup occurred later than conception of the other puppies, all pups float around free for 17 days before implantation and formation of the placenta."
Margaret V. Root Kustritz, DVM, Ph.D, DACT, professor of small animal reproduction at the University of Minnesota
"here’s a common misconception that runts are conceived later than their full-sized litter mates, so effectively they’re born prematurely.
Whilst it is possible for puppies within a litter to be sired by more than one father, the eggs fertilized later catch up with the other embryos quickly in the very earliest stages of pregnancy....A runt puppy might have failed to develop quickly enough because of a congenital defect which impeded their growth.
Or their placenta might have embedded in an unfavorable spot on their mum’s uterus, so they didn’t get quite as many nutrients as they needed from her."
Contact the Austin Basenji Club, call breeders, attend a dog show or 2 and find out if you can visit breeders.
What a cutie! Now is a good time to get him used to a dremel. His nails need to be shorter both for his own feet comfort and to keep him from scratching her.
Your Yorkie isn't stupid. She knows she is going to be terribly out-weighed and needs to train him NOW who the boss it. Let her. If he bullies her, remove him consistently so she knows you will help protect her. Limit the time he has access to her and try to make it fun time... treats/training, or simple one on each side getting petting while you watch tv. You want to teach him that she isn't a chew toy and you want to teach her that having another dog doesn't have to be scary.
No matter what you do, she may never want to play with him. Your goal, for now, is to make her feel secure and him to stop being a wild thing.
Someone wise once said it isn't the SIZE of the treat, it's the ceremony. Make the treat tiny, and cut back on his meals to help compensate.
There are times when harnesses are critical, sleds, weight pulling etc, plus dogs with glaucoma, neck injuries, etc. But my short personal opinion--- teach loose leash walking first. Then use a harness.
I agree with the ignore. You can do that and treats. When he walks in, without looking at her, drop a treat and keep moving. Maybe place hand palm up with a treat on it while on the sofa. Let her approach and get the treat. Add in "good girl" when she's comfortable with that. This way she isn't pressured to respond except in clearly positive (walks, feeding) situations, and she does the approach at other times.
He may have done something that startled her without realizing it. With patience she will get over it. Licking his hand to get his scent is great...maybe smear his palm with a little cream cheese or peanut butter (don't overdo it).
We need pictures, btw.
I've felt that way about all the breeds I have owned. But the basenji's gazing into your eyes... My most beloved dog, Sayblee, learned if she walked on me I'd generally shove her off the bed. So she learned to crawl up me and I'd wake up to find her on top of me with her nose on my nose, intensely looking in my eyes.
Aileen: It gives all the warnings one should take very seriously before choosing a basenji because so many of them are relinquished or abused and neglected.
I've worked in rescue a long time. Dogs generally are grateful and adjust fine, unless they had an unstable temperament to start with. Getting one from an experienced rescue that can really evaluate a dog is important. I'm always disappointed with rescues that just take the owner's word for things and places the dog directly into a home. And now I have sweet Cara who puts her head on my leg and looks up to me to figure out what she wants; follows us from room to room so she's not by herself (the other dog doesn't count).
Being with BCOA isn't the only sign of a good breeder in the US, but it helps.
Sadly, puppymill breeders have learned to sound reputable. You can ask Sally privately about dogs if you have the akc registration numbers. Beware of US breeders who use other breed clubs but NOT AKC. Often dogs are sold on no breeding contracts, so they use those to still breed. Also, though not that strict, AKC does have requirements for breeders with higher litter numbers etc.
There is a lot more to health than Fanconi and PRA. Trust no one without verifying from other breeders. I was experienced (Rottweilers), and I took the word of a "friend" only to discover she lied about a bucket of things. Fortunately, she isn't breeding any longer. The internet is wonderful, you can now find out if Xbreeder is hiding/lying about health issues easier.
So to not go on and on, Pat (tanza) gave you an excellent link on screening breeders. Here is reading that will help and Virginia breeders. You need to get on breeders' lists now if you want a puppy next winter.
Basenji University: https://www.basenji.org/index.php/basenji-u
Link in case you reconsider surrounding states so you have a better chance of getting a puppy: https://www.basenji.org/index.php/about-basenjis/breeder-directory
Damara Bolté - Leesburg, Virginia
Julie Hartigan - Purcellville, Virginia <--- Marjani Basenjis
Lisa Corell Auerbach - Richmond, Virginia
Toni L Ackerman - King George, Virginia