Best posts made by DebraDownSouth

If someone can look at those pictures and not break out in a smile, something is very wrong with them. Oh my goodness is he Mr Personality or what! Thank you for updating with such great photos.

Amputation is a major surgery, far more healing than plating or pinning. But certainly a cast is better than amputation. While dogs do fine with amputations, the healing would be a lot longer than the 12 weeks casting. If the vet is not an ortho specialist, I really suggest you see one for a 2nd opinion.

I took the liberty of reuploading. To get it to show on the forum, you need to use the up arrow next to the smiley face. Just let me know if you want me to remove it. What a cutie... definitely see basenji.

Sometimes their grief is being fed by yours. Work on giving him a lot more attention, exercise, learning new tricks. Basically, really truly tire him out the night before and the morning prior to leaving. If possible, try to arrange so that your and/or your partner can run home for a quick lunch/play time. Get the 2 way communications devices so you can see each other and talk to him.

I understand the costs. I had to wait after my beloved Sayblee died to get another basenji. So much expense trying to save her that it simply wasn't responsible to take on a new dog yet. A blanket or something with the smells... or wrap a new blanket around some of Jimmy's toys so that it gets the smell. Leaving that in the crate may help.

I am sorry for your loss, made doubly hard by poor Max's grief. He most certainly can feel you are grieving, but playing UP, higher happy tone, and more attention should help.

I've felt that way about all the breeds I have owned. But the basenji's gazing into your eyes... My most beloved dog, Sayblee, learned if she walked on me I'd generally shove her off the bed. So she learned to crawl up me and I'd wake up to find her on top of me with her nose on my nose, intensely looking in my eyes.

Aileen: It gives all the warnings one should take very seriously before choosing a basenji because so many of them are relinquished or abused and neglected.

I've worked in rescue a long time. Dogs generally are grateful and adjust fine, unless they had an unstable temperament to start with. Getting one from an experienced rescue that can really evaluate a dog is important. I'm always disappointed with rescues that just take the owner's word for things and places the dog directly into a home. And now I have sweet Cara who puts her head on my leg and looks up to me to figure out what she wants; follows us from room to room so she's not by herself (the other dog doesn't count).

Bahahahahaha, she is DARLING! I love the "baby dinosaur noises." My basenjis make demonic noises we say are calling their minions.

For FHO, it has great results with smaller dogs but I've known of many larger breeds (Rottweiler, GSD, Golden Retriever) who did superb and never had any issues.

Get your dog used to a muzzle at home . Basket muzzles are the least confining . There are some things that dogs do not get to be the boss , and vet visits and vaccines are some of them . Make the muzzle training and tiny steps .

Show the dog the muzzle and let it get close to it give it a treat and praise, show the muzzle, when the dog comes to you, treat and praise . Once the dog is used to seeing the muzzle then you touch the dog with the muzzle or possible just lightly put over the nose and then take back . You have to keep building on this until you're able to put the muzzle on the dog and build up time until the dog is not reactive to muzzle .

Sedation is a risk of death however small each time you do it. Like the others I cannot imagine allowing a vet to do it to my dog to pull blood.

My oldest basenji was 13. Hopefully your dog will make it far beyond that..

First, get a full vet check. Dogs that are sick are often bullied or attacked by the other house dogs.

If that is all clear, then try to separate them. Life being under the fear of attack is horribly stressful to the dog. In nature, if such occurred she could simply leave. Unfortunately, correcting him might escalate things, so make sure when you aren't around that he does not have access to her. Working on teaching him at all times to not approach her, not just when he's bullying, may lessen the problem.

I think you are doing things right, but I do suggest you slow down and not leave them alone for a while longer. With their prey drive, things could go wrong fast. So keep supervising and give them time to really bond and accept it as part of the family.

The problem is, what you describe COULD be heat (though none of my bitches ever had diarrhea)... it could also be something serious, such as parvo. Let the vet check her.

PLEASE take the time to do a forum search on the kennel before you encourage another person to support this puppy farm. You have been scammed. I hope that you luck out and don't have health issues.

@sakuhn62

Check them out how? Unless they have generations of heart, hips, thyroid, clear fanconi etc...they are NOT good breeders.

As for cost, you get a puppy with a pedigree containing no or limited genetic and health testing and your chances of paying far more for health issues are much greater. Also, sometimes breeders have older pups that didn't work out for showing they'll sell for less, or young adults ..nor btw do most litters have only show quality puppies.

Good breeders breed for health, not just showing. In fact health is the most important.

This is not "we've found a new issue"... it's, we knew this, but we want the public to be aware:

https://www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/NewsEvents/CVMUpdates/ucm620934.htm

Animal Drug Safety Communication: FDA Alerts Pet Owners and Veterinarians About Potential for Neurologic Adverse Events Associated with Certain Flea and Tick Products
September 20, 2018

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration is alerting pet owners and veterinarians to be aware of the potential for neurologic adverse events in dogs and cats when treated with drugs that are in the isoxazoline class.

Since these products have obtained their respective FDA approvals, data received by the agency as part of its routine post-marketing activities indicates that some animals receiving Bravecto, Nexgard or Simparica have experienced adverse events such as muscle tremors, ataxia, and seizures. Another product in this class, Credelio, recently received FDA approval. These products are approved for the treatment and prevention of flea infestations, and the treatment and control of tick infestations.

The FDA is working with manufacturers of isoxazoline products to include new label information to highlight neurologic events because these events were seen consistently across the isoxazoline class of products.

The FDA carefully reviewed studies and other data on Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard and Simparica prior to approval, and these products continue to be safe and effective for the majority of animals. The agency is asking the manufacturers to make the changes to the product labeling in order to provide veterinarians and pet owners with the information they need to make treatment decisions for each pet on an individual basis. Veterinarians should use their specialized training to review their patients’ medical histories and determine, in consultation with pet owners, whether a product in the isoxazoline class is appropriate for the pet.

Although FDA scientists carefully evaluate an animal drug prior to approval, there is the potential for new information to emerge after marketing, when the product is used in a much larger population. In the first three years after approval, the FDA pays particularly close attention to adverse event reports, looking for any safety information that may emerge.

The FDA monitors adverse drug event reports received from the public or veterinarians, other publicly available information (such a peer-reviewed scientific articles), and mandatory reports from the animal drug sponsor (the company that owns the right to market the drug). Drug sponsors must report serious, unexpected adverse events within 15 days of the event. In addition, they must submit any events that are non-serious, plus any laboratory studies, in vitro studies, and clinical trials that have not been previously submitted to the agency, on a bi-annual basis for the first two years following product approval and annually thereafter.

The FDA continues to monitor adverse drug event reports for these products and encourages pet owners and veterinarians to report adverse drug events. You can do this by reporting to the drugs’ manufacturers, who are required to report this information to the FDA, or by submitting a report directly to the FDA.

To report suspected adverse drug events for these products and/or obtain a copy of the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) or for technical assistance, contact the appropriate manufacturers at the following phone numbers:

Merck Animal Health (Bravecto): 800-224-5318
Elanco Animal Health (Credelio): 888-545-5973
Merial (Nexgard): 888-637-4251
Zoetis (Simparica): 888-963-8471

If you prefer to report directly to the FDA, or want additional information about adverse drug experience reporting for animal drugs, see How to Report Animal Drug Side Effects and Product Problems.

@wyldepaws
It's always good to read about dogs with issues getting into the right home. You are most certainly doing things right.

So this is a 3rd home and a lot of continual changes. The goal is to make experiences positive. I suggest one thing at a time, building on what you are already doing. I wouldn't wait for a noise to be over to cheerfully say "good noise" so he knows it's the bark/car/other loud noises that you like, not their stopping.

1. Start SLOW, break it down. First is the collar/halter issues. It helps if you have a harness that needs minimal fussing with-- over his head, legs in, snap shut. If you have someone to help, pick him up and do it so he can't fight much. If not, don't bother with treats... use praise and a very matter-of-fact tone. I would spend 3 or 4 days putting it on him, "GOOD BOY".. take it off. Do it every hour or 2. He'll eventually get bored of the energy expenditure and accept the reality.

2, Since being outside is important for you, and it's good for him, that might be a good place to start teaching him that you are the giver of good stuff.

At what point does he stress about outside? Once you are out the door, or going to it?

If he's anticipating and stresses once you put a leash on him, put a leash on and walk around the house. Sit in different rooms, pet, up talk, after no more than 10 mins, treat and let go.
Do this until he's comfortable, then have a chair near the door and make that your final stop.

Once comfortable with that, open the door and look out with him. Next step is sitting a chair outside. Then sitting the chair in the grass outside. Treats and praise. Next walk him to the road, come back, sit in the chair, pet and praise, go in and remove the harness. Slowly extend the distance.

Note on nails... Dremels are great, but I'd start with one toe at a time. If you do one every few hours, you can get one paw done the first day; 2nd day do 2 nails each time. By the 3rd day the nails will be done. Soon you'll be able to do all of them at once. Or not. Sadly there are some dogs for whom doing nails is a fight to the death. If all else fails, just pay the vet's office to do them, or cut holes in a pillow case like they do cats, drop him in it and hold in air so he can't move and do one foot at a time.

They are cute so you don't kill them, lol. I found my first basenji scaling a book case to get to my shoes that I had put on the 4th or 5th from the ground shelf away from her. My 2nd one was a freaking mountain goat. She'd hop into a kitchen chair, onto the table, over to the stand up freezer, then to the kitchen counters. I finally broke her using double sided tape on the freezer and counters but she was a very determined pup.

Welcome to the forum.

Please ignore anyone suggesting you have to manhandle, "be the alpha", get aggressive, holding them down, alpha rolls or other such outdated abusive training. You need to train smart, not harsh.

Ditto on being careful about Petsmart "trainers". Double ditto on Patricia McConnel books and work being great. Her article beautifully covers resource guarding. Please read and use her article. People who respond to resource guarding as general or human aggression can make matters far worse. Do it right, and it is not hard to train your pup that yes, even poop in the park is not hers.

You can do almost all your own training by finding a few trainers online and videos, and working solidly on their lessons. Most dogs can be trained with all the basics at home, then use classes or a trainer to help polish or spot problems. Mary is excellent: http://www.clickerlessons.com/index.htm

Few handlers have time to be trainers. Look for trainers who belong to a group that does positive training and reinforcement, hopefully, one who has worked with hounds.

At home, there are ways to stop stool eating as you can put Forbid or other things in their food that makes the feces taste bad. For out walking, it takes several things. First, teach "leave it" command until it is 100 percent solid. Work on it until you can leave a piece of steak and get your pup to not take it. For walks, until you can get "leave it" solid, I strongly suggest either a head halter or basket muzzle. Feces can carry lots of things, from bacteria to parasites. You might try carrying a spray bottle with vinegar and spray the poo, but if your pup grabs it first, the only lesson learned is the need to find fast. Until you get this issue fixed, I'd avoid both dog parts and being unleashed.

All breeds have some differences, and even larger ones within the breed. I haven't found Basenjis all that different from Chows or Samoyeds or half a dozen others. One disadvantage is they are smarter than it's helpful. You can watch their little brains working and it's rarely for the good.

10 months is not a baby, but certainly a puppy. Full mature brain deliveries start coming in small doses and may take 3 or 4 years for you to have a real adult.

Training is far more than teaching a dog (or owner) how to do something. It really is relationship building. The relationship you develop by gently closing fingers around a muzzle while sternly saying "NO BITE" (or, ick, "NO POOP"), then leading away from temptation is one thing. Firm, consistent, calm ... and a pretty good sense of humor ... will win.

@h-castillo said in Anal leakage:

When my 3 yr old female B sleeps she will have super stinky discharge occasionally. We have her gland cleaned every 7 weeks.
Help! Stinky and poopy stain!

Does she have a medical condition? If not, generally diet fixes anal gland issues. In fact, frequent expressing can cause inflammation, scarring and increase the need. Generally adding fiber (powder or products like canned pumpkin) will help your dog express them on their own.

LOL to eeefarm... there are a few things I can say "not going to ever happen" to... expressing anal glands is one of them. Yeah you can learn, but I'm pretty sure my heaving and throwing up from the smell is not going to help the situation!

@bluebert said in Hard to live with my Basenji:

My Basenji is 1 year and 2 months old, I got him when he was 3 months of age.
When he reached 9 months of age, he started to exhibit really bad separation anxiety, to the point that I am now no longer able to leave the house ....<<

It is impossible to know what started this, but it is obvious the behavior has reinforced until you do have serious problems. Have you talked to the breeder?
Packleader training? The concepts about pack leaders and alphas are outdated and often detrimental.

You'll find a lot of info recently posted on crate and separation anxiety in these 2 threads. This might help getting a hold on some things. You might also talk to your veterinarian about medication to help with anxiety at least temporarily.
https://basenjiforums.com/topic/14630/puppy-issues
https://basenjiforums.com/topic/14629/night-howling/14

Apart from all of this he exhibits a number of behavioural issues:

1. He is potty trained but he sometimes urinates here and there, especially if I don't allow him to follow me to a room in the house. <<
   Put him in a crate or outside during the day so he can scream a few without the police being called. Or get a friend to come help. Put him in a down/stay have your friend stand on his leash, leave, come back and praise and repeat a few times daily so your leaving comes to equal the concept of you going to another room means a treat.

If you can afford a behaviorist...now may be time.

2. He developed aggression towards other male dogs, whichever is a huge problem for me as I am unable to keep him at doggy day care while I'm at work.<<

You have a maturing male dog...this isn't abnormal behavior. Sometimes they play nice, often aggression towards same sex is high. You may need to find a sitter who has only him or only a few females.

~3. His play is very rough - other dogs get irritated by him sometimes and he also play bites which can be painful on both humans and other animals. <<

The moment he starts to get rough, end play. Pick a command, like "gentle ". Playing nice? Good gentle..treat. Gets rough, " no rough!" and immediately end play. He will learn escalating ends what he wants. It would help all his behaviors if you really tire him out first.

4. He doesn't take no for an answer and keeps challenging me when I try to correct his behaviour.<<

In every situation, someone gets trained. One command, only one, then you enforce it. If that means you leave a short leash on him while you supervise so you can grab him, do it. It doesn't take long to teach a dog "leave it" means to stop whatever it is doing...be it getting in the trash or looking at the neighbor cat. Your dog will realize it's one chance to not be in an enforced down stay is to obey.

5. On one occasion I had a few friends over and one friend got too close to him and he bit her in the nose- she needed to get stitches and now has a permanent scar<<

You have an understanding friend...police and lawyers could have been called.

It seems like your dog needs to start all over at the start and slowly rebuild a relationship where commands are followed.

All obedience work helper to build the pathways to compliance. This site will help you start over and do it right.

http://www.clickerlessons.from