Amputation is a major surgery, far more healing than plating or pinning. But certainly a cast is better than amputation. While dogs do fine with amputations, the healing would be a lot longer than the 12 weeks casting. If the vet is not an ortho specialist, I really suggest you see one for a 2nd opinion.
Bahahahahaha, she is DARLING! I love the "baby dinosaur noises." My basenjis make demonic noises we say are calling their minions.
For FHO, it has great results with smaller dogs but I've known of many larger breeds (Rottweiler, GSD, Golden Retriever) who did superb and never had any issues.
Sometimes their grief is being fed by yours. Work on giving him a lot more attention, exercise, learning new tricks. Basically, really truly tire him out the night before and the morning prior to leaving. If possible, try to arrange so that your and/or your partner can run home for a quick lunch/play time. Get the 2 way communications devices so you can see each other and talk to him.
I understand the costs. I had to wait after my beloved Sayblee died to get another basenji. So much expense trying to save her that it simply wasn't responsible to take on a new dog yet. A blanket or something with the smells... or wrap a new blanket around some of Jimmy's toys so that it gets the smell. Leaving that in the crate may help.
I am sorry for your loss, made doubly hard by poor Max's grief. He most certainly can feel you are grieving, but playing UP, higher happy tone, and more attention should help.
I've felt that way about all the breeds I have owned. But the basenji's gazing into your eyes... My most beloved dog, Sayblee, learned if she walked on me I'd generally shove her off the bed. So she learned to crawl up me and I'd wake up to find her on top of me with her nose on my nose, intensely looking in my eyes.
Aileen: It gives all the warnings one should take very seriously before choosing a basenji because so many of them are relinquished or abused and neglected.
I've worked in rescue a long time. Dogs generally are grateful and adjust fine, unless they had an unstable temperament to start with. Getting one from an experienced rescue that can really evaluate a dog is important. I'm always disappointed with rescues that just take the owner's word for things and places the dog directly into a home. And now I have sweet Cara who puts her head on my leg and looks up to me to figure out what she wants; follows us from room to room so she's not by herself (the other dog doesn't count).
Get your dog used to a muzzle at home . Basket muzzles are the least confining . There are some things that dogs do not get to be the boss , and vet visits and vaccines are some of them . Make the muzzle training and tiny steps .
Show the dog the muzzle and let it get close to it give it a treat and praise, show the muzzle, when the dog comes to you, treat and praise . Once the dog is used to seeing the muzzle then you touch the dog with the muzzle or possible just lightly put over the nose and then take back . You have to keep building on this until you're able to put the muzzle on the dog and build up time until the dog is not reactive to muzzle .
Sedation is a risk of death however small each time you do it. Like the others I cannot imagine allowing a vet to do it to my dog to pull blood.
My oldest basenji was 13. Hopefully your dog will make it far beyond that..
Who is his breeder. To be blunt, a responsible breeder, with bloodlines worth keeping, would have placed him with a contract forbidding you from breeding him unless you met certain criteria-- typically so many show points or (usually) a championship title; all required health testing such as thyroid, heart, Fanconi if parents weren't tested (which would really not the be case of a responsible breeder), elbows, hips and eyes. IF you got your dog from such a breeder, your dog is probably on a limited registration-- which means you are breaking contract to breed him, and that the puppies cannot be registered.
We all love our pets, but few need to be bred. What if your boy carriers terrible genes that could result in puppies who have horrible health problems? Do you want to do that to them, or to the people who take and love them-- trusting YOU to have been responsible? Unless you have done all the health testing, and unless the sire and dam of your dog have health testing, you don't know what your dog may pass on.
If your breeder is responsible, and you simply misunderstood the contract, the contact the breeder about evaluating, showing and health testing him. If the breeder refuses to change the registration, discuss getting a related dog if you want, or post the parents registered name and perhaps someone has knowledge of related puppies.
If your dog is from a backyard breeder, I can assure you of 2 things. First, no responsible breeder would ever want to breed to your dog. Second, you don't need to be concerned about a loss of his "bloodline" fizzling out. Enjoy your wonderful pet, take a few years learning about pedigrees, bloodlines, genetics, health and find a mentor to help you if you seriously want to breed. But if it's just to get puppies from your pet, please do the breed a favor and do not become an irresponsible breeder.
First, get a full vet check. Dogs that are sick are often bullied or attacked by the other house dogs.
If that is all clear, then try to separate them. Life being under the fear of attack is horribly stressful to the dog. In nature, if such occurred she could simply leave. Unfortunately, correcting him might escalate things, so make sure when you aren't around that he does not have access to her. Working on teaching him at all times to not approach her, not just when he's bullying, may lessen the problem.
This is not "we've found a new issue"... it's, we knew this, but we want the public to be aware:
Animal Drug Safety Communication: FDA Alerts Pet Owners and Veterinarians About Potential for Neurologic Adverse Events Associated with Certain Flea and Tick Products
September 20, 2018
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration is alerting pet owners and veterinarians to be aware of the potential for neurologic adverse events in dogs and cats when treated with drugs that are in the isoxazoline class.
Since these products have obtained their respective FDA approvals, data received by the agency as part of its routine post-marketing activities indicates that some animals receiving Bravecto, Nexgard or Simparica have experienced adverse events such as muscle tremors, ataxia, and seizures. Another product in this class, Credelio, recently received FDA approval. These products are approved for the treatment and prevention of flea infestations, and the treatment and control of tick infestations.
The FDA is working with manufacturers of isoxazoline products to include new label information to highlight neurologic events because these events were seen consistently across the isoxazoline class of products.
The FDA carefully reviewed studies and other data on Bravecto, Credelio, Nexgard and Simparica prior to approval, and these products continue to be safe and effective for the majority of animals. The agency is asking the manufacturers to make the changes to the product labeling in order to provide veterinarians and pet owners with the information they need to make treatment decisions for each pet on an individual basis. Veterinarians should use their specialized training to review their patients’ medical histories and determine, in consultation with pet owners, whether a product in the isoxazoline class is appropriate for the pet.
Although FDA scientists carefully evaluate an animal drug prior to approval, there is the potential for new information to emerge after marketing, when the product is used in a much larger population. In the first three years after approval, the FDA pays particularly close attention to adverse event reports, looking for any safety information that may emerge.
The FDA monitors adverse drug event reports received from the public or veterinarians, other publicly available information (such a peer-reviewed scientific articles), and mandatory reports from the animal drug sponsor (the company that owns the right to market the drug). Drug sponsors must report serious, unexpected adverse events within 15 days of the event. In addition, they must submit any events that are non-serious, plus any laboratory studies, in vitro studies, and clinical trials that have not been previously submitted to the agency, on a bi-annual basis for the first two years following product approval and annually thereafter.
The FDA continues to monitor adverse drug event reports for these products and encourages pet owners and veterinarians to report adverse drug events. You can do this by reporting to the drugs’ manufacturers, who are required to report this information to the FDA, or by submitting a report directly to the FDA.
To report suspected adverse drug events for these products and/or obtain a copy of the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) or for technical assistance, contact the appropriate manufacturers at the following phone numbers:
Merck Animal Health (Bravecto): 800-224-5318
Elanco Animal Health (Credelio): 888-545-5973
Merial (Nexgard): 888-637-4251
Zoetis (Simparica): 888-963-8471
If you prefer to report directly to the FDA, or want additional information about adverse drug experience reporting for animal drugs, see How to Report Animal Drug Side Effects and Product Problems.
It's always good to read about dogs with issues getting into the right home. You are most certainly doing things right.
So this is a 3rd home and a lot of continual changes. The goal is to make experiences positive. I suggest one thing at a time, building on what you are already doing. I wouldn't wait for a noise to be over to cheerfully say "good noise" so he knows it's the bark/car/other loud noises that you like, not their stopping.
- Start SLOW, break it down. First is the collar/halter issues. It helps if you have a harness that needs minimal fussing with-- over his head, legs in, snap shut. If you have someone to help, pick him up and do it so he can't fight much. If not, don't bother with treats... use praise and a very matter-of-fact tone. I would spend 3 or 4 days putting it on him, "GOOD BOY".. take it off. Do it every hour or 2. He'll eventually get bored of the energy expenditure and accept the reality.
2, Since being outside is important for you, and it's good for him, that might be a good place to start teaching him that you are the giver of good stuff.
At what point does he stress about outside? Once you are out the door, or going to it?
If he's anticipating and stresses once you put a leash on him, put a leash on and walk around the house. Sit in different rooms, pet, up talk, after no more than 10 mins, treat and let go.
Do this until he's comfortable, then have a chair near the door and make that your final stop.
Once comfortable with that, open the door and look out with him. Next step is sitting a chair outside. Then sitting the chair in the grass outside. Treats and praise. Next walk him to the road, come back, sit in the chair, pet and praise, go in and remove the harness. Slowly extend the distance.
Note on nails... Dremels are great, but I'd start with one toe at a time. If you do one every few hours, you can get one paw done the first day; 2nd day do 2 nails each time. By the 3rd day the nails will be done. Soon you'll be able to do all of them at once. Or not. Sadly there are some dogs for whom doing nails is a fight to the death. If all else fails, just pay the vet's office to do them, or cut holes in a pillow case like they do cats, drop him in it and hold in air so he can't move and do one foot at a time.
Cesar Millan is the worse thing to happen to dog training in a long time. But don't take my word for it. Here are experts willing to publicly express his wrongness:
They are cute so you don't kill them, lol. I found my first basenji scaling a book case to get to my shoes that I had put on the 4th or 5th from the ground shelf away from her. My 2nd one was a freaking mountain goat. She'd hop into a kitchen chair, onto the table, over to the stand up freezer, then to the kitchen counters. I finally broke her using double sided tape on the freezer and counters but she was a very determined pup.
- you cannot control the other dogs there... dogs will challenge your dog
- your dog is dog aggressive with little provocations
So, as tanza said, stay out of the dog park. Exercise your dog elsewhere. Or keep it muzzled. Not all dogs (in fact I think MOST dogs) do not belong in unleashed dog parks. Dogs aren't little children who need to play with other children. They need exercise, they need stable companionship (owners and humans and hopefully well behaved other family pet/pets), not a smorgasbord of dogs served up at the dog park.
You are lucky neither owner sued you. The lightest response is you get banned. Worse, your dog will do serious damage to another dog... or she'll take on one that will kill her before you can blink. Your saying the other dog
"had to limp away and in tears" almost sounds like a brag. Your concerns of arrested/banned/lose your dog doesn't take into the situation that YOUR DOG has harmed others. Be responsible, keep her home, or keep her muzzled and on a leash.