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Leash training
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The pulling on the leash dosen't work for us either and I think he might even like it cause he stands on his back paws and walk like a human. I just bought a new leash..sorry don't know the name nut it helped some. He started crying after the second day cause he couldn't pull or jump so I took it off but I plan on putting it back on at least one walk a day.
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If any of you are familiar with horses, the concept of a halter is a good one… at least it worked with our B. We'd tried choke collars (soft nylon web) and obedience school.. hah!
The idea behind a dog halter (regardless of which one you get) is the idea "Where the nose goes, the head & shoulders will follow". The pressure is on the bridge of the nose (just below the eyes and no, you can't choke or suffocate your dog with these collars). When they start to get ahead of you, the pressure across the nose actually turns the dog's head towards you, in turn causing their shoulder to "pop out". This stops the movement of the dog (same principle if ever you are on a runaway horse... take one rein and pull. An animal can't go forward if it's head is pointing one direction and it's shoulder another.).
It took Rocky all of 5 minutes to figure out he actually got to walk if he went the speed I asked of him, instead of hell-brent-for-leather-while-choking. A very different dog when we walk now. He's actually calmer too!
I also recommend some basic "pack" manuvers: you lead with the dog either at your knee or slightly behind your movement; when going thru a doorway, you go first, then your dog; whenever you stop, make dog sit and wait to move until you give command to do so. I know, I'm asking alot of a B (commands? Hah! I laugh in the face of commands! What's in it for me?!?) but once you start reminding them in subtle ways that you are top dog, they tend not to grumble so much about walking at your pace.
Good luck!
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If any of you are familiar with horses, the concept of a halter is a good one… at least it worked with our B. We'd tried choke collars (soft nylon web) and obedience school.. hah!
The idea behind a dog halter (regardless of which one you get) is the idea "Where the nose goes, the head & shoulders will follow". The pressure is on the bridge of the nose (just below the eyes and no, you can't choke or suffocate your dog with these collars). When they start to get ahead of you, the pressure across the nose actually turns the dog's head towards you, in turn causing their shoulder to "pop out". This stops the movement of the dog (same principle if ever you are on a runaway horse... take one rein and pull. An animal can't go forward if it's head is pointing one direction and it's shoulder another.).
It took Rocky all of 5 minutes to figure out he actually got to walk if he went the speed I asked of him, instead of hell-brent-for-leather-while-choking. A very different dog when we walk now. He's actually calmer too!
Thanks for the info. I tried a choke collar too and it didin't work. He just kept yackin. Then the nylon semi-choke and it doesn't seem to be helping either. I'll try a dog halter. Fingers crossed this will do the trick.
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Vanessa626, it's called the Gentle Leader Headcollar.
http://www.gentleleader.com/pages.cfm?id=19
Good luck!
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Thanks! It even shows ya how to put it on…quite strange looking
Im going to pick one up this weekend...Hope it helps! -
I've realized after lots of research that many of these leashes are just aides to helping you teach your dog how not to pull. NONE of these will magically make the dog stop pulling. They will pull less because many of these leashes make it uncomfortable for the dog when they DO pull. But you still need to work with your pooch to teach them not to pull and positively showing them that it's better when they don't pull.
And judging from the posts (including my own post) some dogs don't care about feeling uncomfortable when pulling they will do it anyways :eek: darn stubborn dogs!
When using any of these leashes or training aides you need to train your dog that it's better for BOTH of you when they don't pull. So rewarding them while they walk nicely is ABSOLUTELY important. Otherwise the uncomfortable leashes or choke chain corrections is just saying…"when you pull you don't feel good" and what you want them to learn is..."when you DON'T pull it's GREAT"
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When using any of these leashes or training aides you need to train your dog that it's better for BOTH of you when they don't pull. So rewarding them while they walk nicely is ABSOLUTELY important. Otherwise the uncomfortable leashes or choke chain corrections is just saying…"when you pull you don't feel good" and what you want them to learn is..."when you DON'T pull it's GREAT"
This is right on, Basenji Mom. For my dogs, walking on the head halter ranks right up there with walking in the rain on the "Basenji Don'ts list". They flop over on their side and try to rub it off their face and proclaim to the world that "I am broken!" My dogs have gotten much better about not pulling through lots of consistent training. They could be better but they have reached a level that I am comfortable with and that is what is important. I see many dogs that have good leash manners on their Gentle Leaders or Easy Walk Harnesses that turn into pulling champs as soon as they are on a flat buckle collar. They need to learn what "loose leash" means and that there is something in it for them to keep a loose leash. This takes time and training, the halters and harnesses can help keep them from practicing bad manners while you are still training good manners but they do not teach them the good manners.
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I find a need to re-open this thread as I am near the end of Duke's Intermediate training. We have practiced "heeling" through most of the 8 week course. (week 8 is next week) I have made SOME headway using a long wooden spoon dipped in peanut butter and/or cream cheese. The idea with the long spoon is to use the length of it to reach his level as a lure and incentive to walk at my side. The 7th class was yesterday the challenge was to walk past other dogs and distractions, while keeping them focused with the "heel". Head halters and harnesses are not to be worn for heeling. WELL - Duke doesn't care what's on the spoon after his eyes target a dog, ferret, cat . . . I can't even get him to "come - watch - sit" or even hear my voice! I literally have to wrap the leash around my back to keep him closer to me, keeping the distractions at a safer distance (in my control) from Duke's desire. I've read this entire thread, and understand that continuous training is necessary.
My question is: How do I get Duke's attention if the treat isn't reward enough and he turns deaf to my voice? Anyone had this occur? I fully intend on pursuing loose leash walking with the heel command but could use some ideas through this obstacle.
BTW - As you can imagine, Duke's disposition with this training is dreadful and embarrassing. However, as the other dog owner's see Duke's wild ways, I figure it must make them feel really proud of their own dog's progress. I see them meandering calm as cucumbers, glancing at me trying to control Duke. :o
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hee hee, we did that peanut butter on a spoon thing in Jazzy's puppy class two years ago.
Didn't work for us either. In fact, nothing works for us as far as leash training goes, w/either dog.
I have decided that walking at a heel is not a priority for me anyway. As long as I can control them on-leash when I need to, I'm okay with that. I don't mind if they walk a bit ahead or to the side, and sniff and look. If we're in a crowd, I just shorten the leash and they do just fine that way too.
But I am always willing to listen to tips! -
Ohh boy! So heeling remains to be a challenge every walk? What kind of collar do you use? I've been using a slip collar (Martingale type) for the class. He detests the head collar and acts like Lisa's:
@lvoss:For my dogs, walking on the head halter ranks right up there with walking in the rain on the "Basenji Don'ts list". They flop over on their side and try to rub it off their face and proclaim to the world that "I am broken!"
With the head collar, I can walk with him at a more normal pace. Still would try heeling if I can find a solution to this problem so everyone is happy. Any ideas or tricks? Anyone?
I suppose realizing we have "special" dogs is a small price to pay. I remember being able to enjoy walks and conversation with my DH with my other dogs . . .
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While I can't say that ours have learned to CONSISTENTLY heal & walk without pulling for the ENTIRE walk…I have used some techniques to help them focus on me for most of our walk time. And I have to say that for me, it's good enough. My TOPAZ is GREAT on a leash...and well C3PO will just never be great :(. He may be OKAY at best
LOL LOL..anyway here it goes.First I would UP the treat value. Maybe PB is just not enugh to get his attention...and I would also ONLY use this SUPER HIGH VALUE TREAT when you're on walks. If he gets it any other time then the treat will lose its value. At least in my experience this is the case. So maybe you can try salmon, or tuna or smelly cheese
you get the idea...When I see a dog, squirrel, or some other big distraction..I start to say "FIND IT!" "FIND IT" "FIND IT" dropping treat bits on the ground so that the treat falls right in front of them one after another like rain drops...they don't have time to look up becuz their nose is GLUED to the ground looking for the fantastic treats on the ground. This works most of the time.
Other times I need to put the treat right at their nose...like a lure to help them focus on the treat rather then the dog.
This is all done when "watch" technique is not working.
Good luck! And let me know how it goes
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Thanks for the idea jys1011. I hadn't thought of dropping the treats like that. I'll use the "find it" command so they know to look for treats on the ground. I'll let you know how it works for me.
If anyone has some ideas, please respond. I'll try anything to get the attention I need when Duke's brain runs of the crazy side.
I am envious to those who show, lure or run agility courses. You all must have some "special" trick up your sleeve when there are an abundant distractions in and out of the spotlight…;)
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While I can't say that ours have learned to CONSISTENTLY heal & walk without pulling for the ENTIRE walk…I have used some techniques to help them focus on me for most of our walk time. And I have to say that for me, it's good enough. My TOPAZ is GREAT on a leash...and well C3PO will just never be great :(. He may be OKAY at best
I completely agree. Every other dog I've owned has been trained to heel and walk with the loose leash… but Rocky just decided it wasn't for him and god help me if I thought I was going to talk him out of it. Being a sight hound and so prey driven really makes it interesting walking. My husband (or daughter) normally walks the Papillion and I've got Rocky. Anytime we encounter something that catches his eye (another dog; squirrels; etc) he'll start to strain on the leash and doing the crazy basenji thing.
I've found putting him into a "sit-stay" or asking him to walk another direction and then "sit-stay" works wonders. If he still is distracted, I ask him for some other task until he's completely focused on me and my crazy directions.
(Can you tell I use a lot of horse training techniques with the dog? And yet they work!)While basenji's truly want to please us, they really are in it for themselves and themselves alone. I keep seeing those shirts that say "It's all about me!" and I desperately want to put one on Rocky so the whole world would then know what I'm dealing with in my dog.
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I've been using a harness with my Basenji and have been keeping him on my left side and giving him treats when he sticks by me without pulling. He hasn't really caught onto the whole leash thing, but I'll keep working on it. He's horrible with the martingale collar though.
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Mine have all been STRONG pullers and only recently have I/we made progress with the trainng.
Inside mine are really quite good but outside it's a different but understandable situation.
I tried the head halter but Gossy just walked with her head turned to the side all the time; I tried martingale collars and no change; I tried various body harnesses and they slowed her down slightly but I had to be on guard constantly because she could escape from them all if she got behind me. I finally took a "loose leash class" and the instructor had me use a pinch collar and I had to give a little sharp tug immediately if the leash tightened. This is working and now we're walking without the pinch collar but stopping when the leash tightens. We still have work to do but much more improvement than with any other techinique. -
Only have had my 13 week old puppy less than a week, and he's already walking pretty well on a loose lead with only occasional resistance. The key to not have a pulling dog (learned from stubborn AmStaff) is not to engage in pulling. I use the dressage concept of "half halt" with a small correction upward, not a tug forward or back, followed by moving purposefully in the direction I want to go. No treats on walkies, since I don't want him stiffing around for food when he's supposed to be paying attention to me. Short practice sessions of only 5-10 minutes is all his brain can handle right now, and we follow it with serious play time. I use a martingale collar because it gives an effective gentle upward correction then loosens immediately after. Lots of verbal praise & pats/scritches too. He really prances when he gets it!
In dressage riding, a half halt is a quick closed hand accompanying a closed leg. The leg encourages forward, the hand says "listen, this is important" and converts impulsion to a more collected energy.
Corrections must be subtle but firm and timed well so they're more of a nudge to distract from whatever is causing him to pull, and moving with a happy "Thabo, heel" or "Thabo, come along" seems to do the trick.
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Young puppies are pretty easy to get to walk on a loose leash. As they get older and start to have more confidence in exploring their world, they can become more of a challenge.
Using treats does not mean the dog is not paying attention to you, there are many exercises that you can do to teach the dog that attention to you gets the reward and attention to the treat gets none.
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Lately we have been using the Sporn Harness. This halter appears to be very effective for our 4 year old and also effective for our 4 month old. Granted, they do have to be adjusted properly to have good control.
My only concern was that a harness can be backed out of. Lately I have been double leashing the 4 year old. This includes a leash connected to the Martingale collar as well the Sporn Harness. This seems to work well for me and our 4 year old responds well to it. We have used a gentle leader on him but do not like it pulling on his head and neck. So the Sporn Harness has been really nice to work with.
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There are several no pull harnesses available. I like the Freedom Harness by Wiggles, Wags and Whiskers. It can be well adjusted to fit the dog, has a couple of option for how it is used depending on how much the dog pulls.
http://www.wiggleswagswhiskers.com/newsite/no-pull-harness.htm
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The harness is very interesting because of the double leash attachment control. Comparing it to the Sporn, I do notice there does not seem to be any padding on the nylon straps and it appears to be a plastic buckle type. They do appear to offer a great warranty.
I do like the options they offer.
Here is a link to the Sporn no pull harness just for comparison:
http://sporn.com/training/mesh-non-pull-harness/
We do like the fact that this is very easy to put on the Basenji, there is a flexible mesh against the chest, padding under the legs where the straps come up. Adjustment is very easy because both straps that give you control go up through a metal guide and a one button slider lock is used to tighten up the harness on the dog. The big plus for us is that our Basenji's do not seem to mind wearing them or getting them put on. The second plus is that this no pull harness actually flexes some with the dog. Like any no pull harness, I think it has to be adjusted right to be effective.
Since there is a money back guarantee offered by the manufacturer, I thought it was a no brainer so we gave it a shot.
