I just looked at the pic but my ? is, if the strap is in the front isn't it really uncomfortable to maneuver or is that the point?
I can see myself getting all twisted in that thing
the strap goes across the chest/shoulder area, to limit the dog's steps. shorter, smaller steps are less likely to result in pulling. I used this type of harness when my dog was a pup, once he was grown, I switched to a head harness. all the while I continued working on his leash manners on a regular flat buckle collar though - that is the most important point here, leash manners need to be taught - harnesses are not a fix, they are just tools.
I just looked at the pic but my ? is, if the strap is in the front isn't it really uncomfortable to maneuver or is that the point?
Do you mean uncomfortable for the dog, or the person? Either way, it isn't uncomfortable for the human, and only for the dog if they are trying to pull.
It is more about leverage of where the leash attaches, than it is about discomfort though. The physics of it make the dogs body come around when the dog pulls.
Maybe it's ME (and it very well could be) or my B is just TOO much of a puller. I find he pulls just as much with the harness as he does with a martingale leash or the gentle leader…I've basically tried it all 
Querk will still try to pull with the GL, when he is really excited. He did better with the Sensible Harness…but Bella was able to pull pretty well in the harness. I think it may matter what the dog is shaped like. My dogs will all still pull some when they are wound up, or when I am walking multiple dogs...I just haven't put enough time into training them to walk politely 
But we can all still enjoy a nice walk in the park, and that is my main goal
I have a 5 month old puppy. He has not been to any training yet but I am taking him out on the leash. He is a lunatic! running, sniffing, running around in circles, zig zagging. The only way to keep him next to me is to hold the leash really tight and then he gags but is pulling still. Should I not be even taking him out until he is trained on the leash. Help! I actually think I am teaching him to think that a tight leash is the way it is supposed to be. He is pretty smart and is learning other things so quickly I think it is me who is the dummy!
There is a thread here about training polite walking somewhere. In a nut shell, the secret is never take one step forward when the dog is pulling. And, yes, keeping his leash tight won't teach him anything. As you walk, when the leash gets tight, you stop your feet immediately, and wait for him to check in with you. It is important to have taught him to pay attention to you first as well. There is also a post somewhere here about teaching "attention" or "watch". You have to dedicate a lot of time to training him to walk politely, before you can expect it to happen in a stimulating environment.
I had to make an unexpected trip out of town Last Wednesday night, my leash training was not going well at all, I loaded his cate in the trunk, and packed him a bag, with Toy's, treats. I went back into the house, put his leash on and Presto he was a new dog; I was so surprised I made a stop at a rest area and no problems at all. I was surprised to see his mane stand up for the 1st time, that was neat. He did well on all of his potty breaks, If I could get him to do that well at home!! I only wish I had the time to stay with him though out the day. Glen
The pulling on the leash dosen't work for us either and I think he might even like it cause he stands on his back paws and walk like a human. I just bought a new leash..sorry don't know the name nut it helped some. He started crying after the second day cause he couldn't pull or jump so I took it off but I plan on putting it back on at least one walk a day.
If any of you are familiar with horses, the concept of a halter is a good one… at least it worked with our B. We'd tried choke collars (soft nylon web) and obedience school.. hah!
The idea behind a dog halter (regardless of which one you get) is the idea "Where the nose goes, the head & shoulders will follow". The pressure is on the bridge of the nose (just below the eyes and no, you can't choke or suffocate your dog with these collars). When they start to get ahead of you, the pressure across the nose actually turns the dog's head towards you, in turn causing their shoulder to "pop out". This stops the movement of the dog (same principle if ever you are on a runaway horse... take one rein and pull. An animal can't go forward if it's head is pointing one direction and it's shoulder another.).
It took Rocky all of 5 minutes to figure out he actually got to walk if he went the speed I asked of him, instead of hell-brent-for-leather-while-choking. A very different dog when we walk now. He's actually calmer too!
I also recommend some basic "pack" manuvers: you lead with the dog either at your knee or slightly behind your movement; when going thru a doorway, you go first, then your dog; whenever you stop, make dog sit and wait to move until you give command to do so. I know, I'm asking alot of a B (commands? Hah! I laugh in the face of commands! What's in it for me?!?) but once you start reminding them in subtle ways that you are top dog, they tend not to grumble so much about walking at your pace.
Good luck!
If any of you are familiar with horses, the concept of a halter is a good one… at least it worked with our B. We'd tried choke collars (soft nylon web) and obedience school.. hah!
The idea behind a dog halter (regardless of which one you get) is the idea "Where the nose goes, the head & shoulders will follow". The pressure is on the bridge of the nose (just below the eyes and no, you can't choke or suffocate your dog with these collars). When they start to get ahead of you, the pressure across the nose actually turns the dog's head towards you, in turn causing their shoulder to "pop out". This stops the movement of the dog (same principle if ever you are on a runaway horse... take one rein and pull. An animal can't go forward if it's head is pointing one direction and it's shoulder another.).
It took Rocky all of 5 minutes to figure out he actually got to walk if he went the speed I asked of him, instead of hell-brent-for-leather-while-choking. A very different dog when we walk now. He's actually calmer too!
Thanks for the info. I tried a choke collar too and it didin't work. He just kept yackin. Then the nylon semi-choke and it doesn't seem to be helping either. I'll try a dog halter. Fingers crossed this will do the trick.
Vanessa626, it's called the Gentle Leader Headcollar.
http://www.gentleleader.com/pages.cfm?id=19
Good luck!
Thanks! It even shows ya how to put it on…quite strange looking 
Im going to pick one up this weekend...Hope it helps!
I've realized after lots of research that many of these leashes are just aides to helping you teach your dog how not to pull. NONE of these will magically make the dog stop pulling. They will pull less because many of these leashes make it uncomfortable for the dog when they DO pull. But you still need to work with your pooch to teach them not to pull and positively showing them that it's better when they don't pull.
And judging from the posts (including my own post) some dogs don't care about feeling uncomfortable when pulling they will do it anyways :eek: darn stubborn dogs!
When using any of these leashes or training aides you need to train your dog that it's better for BOTH of you when they don't pull. So rewarding them while they walk nicely is ABSOLUTELY important. Otherwise the uncomfortable leashes or choke chain corrections is just saying…"when you pull you don't feel good" and what you want them to learn is..."when you DON'T pull it's GREAT"
When using any of these leashes or training aides you need to train your dog that it's better for BOTH of you when they don't pull. So rewarding them while they walk nicely is ABSOLUTELY important. Otherwise the uncomfortable leashes or choke chain corrections is just saying…"when you pull you don't feel good" and what you want them to learn is..."when you DON'T pull it's GREAT"
This is right on, Basenji Mom. For my dogs, walking on the head halter ranks right up there with walking in the rain on the "Basenji Don'ts list". They flop over on their side and try to rub it off their face and proclaim to the world that "I am broken!" My dogs have gotten much better about not pulling through lots of consistent training. They could be better but they have reached a level that I am comfortable with and that is what is important. I see many dogs that have good leash manners on their Gentle Leaders or Easy Walk Harnesses that turn into pulling champs as soon as they are on a flat buckle collar. They need to learn what "loose leash" means and that there is something in it for them to keep a loose leash. This takes time and training, the halters and harnesses can help keep them from practicing bad manners while you are still training good manners but they do not teach them the good manners.
I find a need to re-open this thread as I am near the end of Duke's Intermediate training. We have practiced "heeling" through most of the 8 week course. (week 8 is next week) I have made SOME headway using a long wooden spoon dipped in peanut butter and/or cream cheese. The idea with the long spoon is to use the length of it to reach his level as a lure and incentive to walk at my side. The 7th class was yesterday the challenge was to walk past other dogs and distractions, while keeping them focused with the "heel". Head halters and harnesses are not to be worn for heeling. WELL - Duke doesn't care what's on the spoon after his eyes target a dog, ferret, cat . . . I can't even get him to "come - watch - sit" or even hear my voice! I literally have to wrap the leash around my back to keep him closer to me, keeping the distractions at a safer distance (in my control) from Duke's desire. I've read this entire thread, and understand that continuous training is necessary.
My question is: How do I get Duke's attention if the treat isn't reward enough and he turns deaf to my voice? Anyone had this occur? I fully intend on pursuing loose leash walking with the heel command but could use some ideas through this obstacle.
BTW - As you can imagine, Duke's disposition with this training is dreadful and embarrassing. However, as the other dog owner's see Duke's wild ways, I figure it must make them feel really proud of their own dog's progress. I see them meandering calm as cucumbers, glancing at me trying to control Duke. :o
hee hee, we did that peanut butter on a spoon thing in Jazzy's puppy class two years ago.
Didn't work for us either. In fact, nothing works for us as far as leash training goes, w/either dog.
I have decided that walking at a heel is not a priority for me anyway. As long as I can control them on-leash when I need to, I'm okay with that. I don't mind if they walk a bit ahead or to the side, and sniff and look. If we're in a crowd, I just shorten the leash and they do just fine that way too.
But I am always willing to listen to tips!
Ohh boy! So heeling remains to be a challenge every walk? What kind of collar do you use? I've been using a slip collar (Martingale type) for the class. He detests the head collar and acts like Lisa's:
@lvoss:
For my dogs, walking on the head halter ranks right up there with walking in the rain on the "Basenji Don'ts list". They flop over on their side and try to rub it off their face and proclaim to the world that "I am broken!"
With the head collar, I can walk with him at a more normal pace. Still would try heeling if I can find a solution to this problem so everyone is happy. Any ideas or tricks? Anyone?
I suppose realizing we have "special" dogs is a small price to pay. I remember being able to enjoy walks and conversation with my DH with my other dogs . . .
While I can't say that ours have learned to CONSISTENTLY heal & walk without pulling for the ENTIRE walk…I have used some techniques to help them focus on me for most of our walk time. And I have to say that for me, it's good enough. My TOPAZ is GREAT on a leash...and well C3PO will just never be great :(. He may be OKAY at best 
LOL LOL..anyway here it goes.
First I would UP the treat value. Maybe PB is just not enugh to get his attention...and I would also ONLY use this SUPER HIGH VALUE TREAT when you're on walks. If he gets it any other time then the treat will lose its value. At least in my experience this is the case. So maybe you can try salmon, or tuna or smelly cheese you get the idea...
When I see a dog, squirrel, or some other big distraction..I start to say "FIND IT!" "FIND IT" "FIND IT" dropping treat bits on the ground so that the treat falls right in front of them one after another like rain drops...they don't have time to look up becuz their nose is GLUED to the ground looking for the fantastic treats on the ground. This works most of the time.
Other times I need to put the treat right at their nose...like a lure to help them focus on the treat rather then the dog.
This is all done when "watch" technique is not working.
Good luck! And let me know how it goes
