• You must keep in mind that a dog does not miss a bite or fail to break skin by accident. She didn't break skin because she didn't want to break skin. It is a lower level bite, but a bite nonetheless. First place yourself as head of the household, then place your girlfriend as number two. Pepper will be resistant to this at first, but once she sees she does not rate as high as your girlfriend, she should settle in.

    One way your girlfriend can help make this happen is to "take possession" of something Pepper has. A spot on the floor, a toy, whatever. She does this by calmly and without saying a word, just step in slowly on the place/item until Pepper gets the idea and moves or gives it up. Edge in and wait. Do not look Pepper straight in the face: that's a direct challenge. Just move in and take whatever it is you want. Once Pepper realizes she has to move for the girlfriend, she will start to get the idea.

    I wouldn't start this exercise with space around you just yet. If your girlfriend wants to sit down, I would suggest you move Pepper rather than make your girlfriend do it. Start with places and things that your girlfriend can "claim" without using her hands. Eventually, Pepper will see her as a leader rather than a rival bitch. (No offense meant at all to your girlfriend.)


  • One thing that I was told very early on by several long time basenji breeders and owners is never get into a battle of will with a basenji. Even if you win the battle, you will have lost a part of the relationship you can't get back.

    I would recommend going the relationship building route. Have your girlfriend feed Pepper and be responsible for "life rewards" like her walks and going out. You want Pepper to feel like good things come when your girlfriend is around. When Pepper is sitting on the couch or bed, have you girlfriend call her off the furniture and reward her for doing so. Then you girlfriend also gets the opportunity to invite her back on the furniture after she has found her spot. These strategies make the basenji feel like it is getting what it wants and makes your girlfriend being aroudn a good thing and something look forward to.

    I keep jars of treats in various rooms of my house so I can easily reward the dogs for behaviors I want to see more of.


  • @lvoss:

    One thing that I was told very early on by several long time basenji breeders and owners is never get into a battle of will with a basenji. Even if you win the battle, you will have lost a part of the relationship you can't get back.

    I would recommend going the relationship building route. Have your girlfriend feed Pepper and be responsible for "life rewards" like her walks and going out. You want Pepper to feel like good things come when your girlfriend is around. When Pepper is sitting on the couch or bed, have you girlfriend call her off the furniture and reward her for doing so. Then you girlfriend also gets the opportunity to invite her back on the furniture after she has found her spot. These strategies make the basenji feel like it is getting what it wants and makes your girlfriend being aroudn a good thing and something look forward to.

    I keep jars of treats in various rooms of my house so I can easily reward the dogs for behaviors I want to see more of.

    I agree here with lvoss for sure… in a battle of "wills" humans can win but lose respect however, in a battle that is physical... humans will lose 99.9% of the time. It is never good to challange in a physical battle. This is one of the reasons that the old "roll and pin" is not recommended by behaviorist any longer and has not for years.


  • Thanks everyone. Some very good suggestions. No offense taken AJs Human. LOL


  • Did someone suggest roll and pin?

    What I am suggesting is not a battle of wills but rather a taking back of territory. There's a difference. When you step into a dog's "space" and refuse to move, it is taking territory. Not a battle of wills. It usually only takes a minute for the dog to get uncomfortable and move. By doing this, you say, "This is mine." rather than, "You are my slave." When the dog gives it up, she is giving rank also. It accomplishes pack order without losing the confidence of your dog. This is how dogs talk to each other as well, yet they do not concede personality or affection.


  • My Basenji, "Beamer" did this twice to myself just last week. They truly do not like it when they are awoken unexpectedly! Your girlfriend just needs to know this breed sometimes reacts before it thinks. They truly don't mean this, it just


  • @AJs:

    Did someone suggest roll and pin?

    What I am suggesting is not a battle of wills but rather a taking back of territory. There's a difference. When you step into a dog's "space" and refuse to move, it is taking territory. Not a battle of wills. It usually only takes a minute for the dog to get uncomfortable and move. By doing this, you say, "This is mine." rather than, "You are my slave." When the dog gives it up, she is giving rank also. It accomplishes pack order without losing the confidence of your dog. This is how dogs talk to each other as well, yet they do not concede personality or affection.

    That is fine, if the dog has a high bite threshold (meaning won't bite easily)..if the girlfriend tries this, the dog may very well bite her..then what?


  • I am the g/f of Pari1art thank you all for your input on Peppers behaviour


  • @Quercus:

    That is fine, if the dog has a high bite threshold (meaning won't bite easily)..if the girlfriend tries this, the dog may very well bite her..then what?[/QUOTe . Thank you We will cross that bridge when and if it happens again


  • @AJs:

    A spot on the floor, a toy, whatever. She does this by calmly and without saying a word, just step in slowly on the place/item until Pepper gets the idea and moves or gives it up. Edge in and wait.

    This does describe a battle of wills. What else do you mean by "gets the idea and moves or gives up"? Some dogs may do that but others will escalate their behavior especially if they have space guarding or resource gaurding tendencies.


  • @cruising1:

    @Quercus:

    That is fine, if the dog has a high bite threshold (meaning won't bite easily)..if the girlfriend tries this, the dog may very well bite her..then what?

    I believe that if you try the "battle" method, you are setting up the dog to fail.. and someone can seriously get hurt.


  • See? I told you my methods aren't popular. 🙂


  • Here's my point of confusion…I agree with idea that if the dog growls, etc. in this type of situation, then the dog should be asked to move and re-earn their privleges . But in some posts, I believe it was stated that the dog should be "moved" which I interpreted as someone physically moving the dog (perhaps that's not what was meant). Doesn't that get into the "battle of wills" terrority if you "physically move them" versus "ask them to move"? Seems like if you physically move them, then even a case where they would not growl at a particular person could change to situation where they might escalate with that person and start growling or worse.


  • Nemo, this is what i understand. Basenjis dont like hands on so it's better not to touch them and get them to move verbaly if possible. The most i could get away with , when Benji got into my place was nudge him gently with my body untill i was in the desired space.


  • I have said this before in another topic, but never punish a growl (or a bark). The puppy class I went to, the teacher couldn't emphasize this enough. A growl is a form of warning. "Look out, I will bite/attack if this continues." If you punish, you are telling the dog "Don't warn me!".
    A dog's warning method is ears pull back/growl/bark/attack. So you then remove the growl, you are removing one of his signs used to inform when feeling threatened/uncomfortable.

    The teacher then showed us a collection of dog attack videos, and we saw that 99% of them just "without warning" attacked. And you read this a lot in news articles of people saying "He was such a nice dog, but this attack came without warning"….etc etc. This is a classic situation of dogs who have been told not to bark/growl. And the sad part is, it's the dogs that get punished for obeying this behavior and just attacking... Pretty sad really.

    The best way to move, is try to lure him with a treat so he moves willingly. And just don't allow the dog back to the sofa/spot you wanted him to move from.


  • I have never heard the advice about never punishing a growl but it makes sense.


  • I wouldn't move a growling dog with your hands, no.. When Tillo growls I say: "well.. that was your bedtime for today".. and of he goes.. looking guilty.. 😃 When I tell Lycia to get off she does all her tricks first.. Sit.. down.. high five..? Hmm.. Ooh.. you want me to get of the bed…...! :rolleyes: 😉 😃 (then she gets off.. walks around.. and jumps up on the other side.. ggg.. funny girl ;))

    In Pepper's case I would try to avoid the growling by calling her of the couch/bed before you go and sit on the couch..


  • @Janneke:

    I wouldn't move a growling dog with your hands, no.. When Tillo growls I say: "well.. that was your bedtime for today".. and of he goes.. looking guilty.. 😃 When I tell Lycia to get off she does all her tricks first.. Sit.. down.. high five..? Hmm.. Ooh.. you want me to get of the bed…...! :rolleyes: 😉 😃 (then she gets off.. walks around.. and jumps up on the other side.. ggg.. funny girl ;))

    In Pepper's case I would try to avoid the growling by calling her of the couch/bed before you go and sit on the couch..

    But say they growl at someone else but not you in the same situation. Should you physically move them then? I would say that down the road it could turn into a problem. Seems like asking would be the way to go in almost all situations. Or even if your dog has never shown any signs of issues like this, if you consistently move them versus ask them to move, I wonder if you are setting yourself up to creat this type of negative behavior in the future (dependent on the dog of course) as they get tired of you moving them around.


  • Nemo-

    If you re-read my post on page one, you'll notice I suggested putting a drag line (leash) attached to Pepper's non corrective collar. This would make it easy to move the dog without touching her. And by asking the dog to get off the sofa, it's like changing the topic of conversation. When the dog complies (and it will, even if you have to give her a gentle tug on the leash), praise and reward. Then you can show the dog to her place, or play the on-sofa/off-sofa game, or just sit on the sofa with/without the dog. Games with food rewards generally cheer basenjis up and happy basenjis aren't growly basenjis.


  • @agilebasenji:

    Nemo-

    If you re-read my post on page one, you'll notice I suggested putting a drag line (leash) attached to Pepper's non corrective collar. This would make it easy to move the dog without touching her. And by asking the dog to get off the sofa, it's like changing the topic of conversation. When the dog complies (and it will, even if you have to give her a gentle tug on the leash), praise and reward. Then you can show the dog to her place, or play the on-sofa/off-sofa game, or just sit on the sofa with/without the dog. Games with food rewards generally cheer basenjis up and happy basenjis aren't growly basenjis.

    Thanks, I wasn't thinking of your post particularly, I liked the drag line idea. But I think the key is that is used following asking the dog to move and the drag line should not be used independently for getting the dog to move. Right?

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