• For those of who have been successful with the stop (when pulling) start (when the lead loosens) method, how long (or what age) did it take for it to work with distractions?


  • With some, distractions will always pose a problem. Some things are just too tempting, so the dog jumps to the end of the leash in an effort to get closer. Don't let him! You destroy your training by giving in, even once.That goes for pulling when sniffing as well. And don't get me started on flex leads, which basically are a training tool for teaching a dog to pull. Most dogs will take a minute to resume loose leash status, and then you can continue, but if the distraction proves too attractive, do a 180 and walk in the other direction. A smart dog will figure out he is never getting closer to his goal by hitting the end of the leash, and in fact will provoke the opposite response from you than the one he wants.


  • @eeeefarm thanks. We have been using that method inconsistently since we got her (she's now almost 10 months) and she does well without distraction but when she sees another dog it goes out the window and shuffle forward in pigeon steps stopping and starting for a long time, wirh her getting frustrated and crying, so we give up. Realise that giving up is not the answer so ready to give it another go, but just wondering how long it takes to get a lot easier.


  • @jkent said in Loose Lead Training:

    @eeeefarm thanks. We have been using that method inconsistently since we got her....

    And there is the root of your problem. For this approach to work you have to be completely consistent, otherwise the dog is guessing whether this is the time you won't enforce the rule. Getting what they want is very reinforcing, so any time that you give in you keep that hope alive that this is the time she will get what she wants. Intermittent reinforcement is actually stronger than constant reinforcement......ask anyone in the Casino business. With distractions and a time constraint your best bet may be to turn and go the other way if that is feasible. There is another approach you can consider. When time is of the essence and you don't have the luxury of taking the time it takes to get the right response, use a different collar or harness or whatever on her. Only use her "training" collar when you mean to enforce the rules. This means you will have to put up with pulling when she is outfitted with her "anything goes" gear, but should help you concentrate on the loose leash walking without inadvertently sabotaging your efforts.


  • Was having problems with heel training, and rogue was getting a little bit irritated around the collar area from all the pulling on walks. Today I got a gentle leader head collar at the pet store, and I have this nice onetigris bungee leash, so I carabineered that to my belt, and hitched up the bridle thing, and rogue and I had a nice loose leash walk right away. She doesn't like bridle very much, but I feel like she'll get used to it. I have a treat stick and i was trying to use that to heel train her indoors, but even when I put chicken in there and did training right before meals, she would lose interest very quickly, preferring to sit down and stare at me instead of following. Rogue always has her nose down, and wants to follow scents instead of following me. I thing the bridle worked so well just because it keeps her nose pointed toward me instead of the ground.


  • @roguecoyote Good for you ! I swear by a Gentle Leader as a training tool. A week or so on one and then a day on a normal collar and lead and they trot along fine. They go back on the GL from time to time just as a refresher. You are controlling their head and that is very important.

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