New Puppy

Basenji Training
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  • jys1011J

    There are lots of great training books out there…check out this great website with good authors.

    www.dogwise.com

    My personal favs are:

    Family Friendly Dog Training-6 week program by Patricia McConnell
    Dog Speak by Matthew Hoffman
    Language of Dogs DVD-Sarah Kalnajs
    Don't Shoot The Dog-by Karen Pryor

    Basenji Mom of C3PO & TOPAZ

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  • jys1011J

    Quick way I learned to train a dog to respond to their name…say the dogs name when he makes eye contact treat & praise or click & treat whichever method you decide to use. I'm assuming you're using a type of positive training method. Don't keep the treat where he can see it and be sure to retrieve the treats from different places. Eventually you'll be able to phase out the treats.

    Try to use the same tone in your voice when you say his name & don't add anything to his name...if his name is Boomer...then don't add "Big Boomer" "Boomer Baby"...stick to just his name in the same tone.

    When they get into a mess or doing something you don't want them to...instead of "BOOMER NO!!!"...instantly distract him..."Boomer Come" softly and calmly...distract him with something MUCH more interesting then destroying the sofa or eating the wires...like a kong, or yummy bone, or some kibble..etc. you get the picture.

    Basenji Mom of C3PO & TOPAZ

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  • tanzaT

    Sounds like your pup is leash aggressive already… but not surprising at 6 months. He may never accept the other dog..

    Pat Fragassi

    Tanza Basenjis

    www.tanzabasenjis.net

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  • etzbsederE

    Yeah I wasn't sure about the leash, but he is on a leash at the store and we passed a few dogs walking around and he didn't mind them, so I'm thinking it has something to do with the way my other dog thinks i'm his family and my puppy doesn't think he's my family. either that or relationships between my dad and I and our dogs.

    Michael Feldman
    Gilbert, AZ

    Chaverim Basenjis

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  • dashD

    Dash is very leash agressive, but since he is silent many think he is just curious so they let their lab run up to him. I usually give a verbal warning to the owner when the dog approaches that he will bite and they grab their dog and look at me like I am the bad person for walking my "mean dog" even though they are not on leash.

    We have talked to a trainer about it but really never followed through. She recommended having Dash sit when other dogs approach and reward him with treats. I have tried but he has NO interest in food when another dog approaches.

    We have just come to accept it.

    Jennifer

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  • QuercusQ

    @dash:

    Dash is very leash agressive, but since he is silent many think he is just curious so they let their lab run up to him. I usually give a verbal warning to the owner when the dog approaches that he will bite and they grab their dog and look at me like I am the bad person for walking my "mean dog" even though they are not on leash.

    We have talked to a trainer about it but really never followed through. She recommended having Dash sit when other dogs approach and reward him with treats. I have tried but he has NO interest in food when another dog approaches.

    We have just come to accept it.

    This technique WILL work, but you have to teach the dog to "sit and watch" prior to him being aroused by seeing another dog. Once he is aroused, he won't be able to eat…it is like someone offering you a donut in the middle of a house fire ;)

    So start teaching him "sit and watch" in the kitchen, and then the driveway, and then the sidewalk, and then the park when there are no other dogs, and then when he can do it in all of those places, you might be able to get him to do it when the dog is VERY far way and you say "sit and watch" long before the dog is close enough to make him react. You may have to practice with dogs where you can walk away from the dog if he starts to react.

    This is basically how we teach reactive dog classes (talk about fun...3-5 reactive dogs in one space!).

    Andrea Walters

    Quercus Basenjis

    NW Ohio

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  • dashD

    The problem is Dash tends to see things long before I do. It's like he has super sonic vision:D Or I am not really paying attention:rolleyes:

    Jennifer

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  • QuercusQ

    @etzbseder:

    Yeah I wasn't sure about the leash, but he is on a leash at the store and we passed a few dogs walking around and he didn't mind them, so I'm thinking it has something to do with the way my other dog thinks i'm his family and my puppy doesn't think he's my family. either that or relationships between my dad and I and our dogs.

    Don't let them practice this aggression or else you won't be able to ever get them together. Did you introduce them somewhere neutral, like a park? Try walking them together….like parallel to each other. Have some treats to reward behavior that is calm (if either one is calm enough to eat).

    Six months is pretty much like an adult, and IME it is hard to introduce adult basenjis to new adult dogs. Just keep calm, and don't try to force them together.

    If you have a neutral off lead, safe space...like a friend's yard, or a tennis court, or training center or something, you could try to let them meet just dragging leads, but that is a little risky unless you really know what you are doing. If you are anxious, that can make the dogs anxious....if you intervene too early or too late you can mess it up. If they already have it in their heads they don't like each other, it might be too late.

    Andrea Walters

    Quercus Basenjis

    NW Ohio

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  • jys1011J

    Dash-I have to recommend this book that's the foundation for the class we're taking our dogs to. You can get it on Dogwise & it's really very good. It's basically the same idea that Andrea has explained to you here. Teaching the dog to look at you when another dog approaches or is nearby is within smelling distance :)

    It goes into a lot more detail & what to do in different situations…such as my dog can smell/see the dog BEFORE I can...and a bunch of other situation.

    I have to tell you that I never thought my dogs would be calm around other dogs..C3PO used to go BANANAS...I mean HAYWIRE when he even smelled another dog with in a 5 block radius...get the picture??!! And TOPAZ used to like to take a bite at my leg she was so nervous...They're not perfect but I will tell you he's 1,000x better then he used to be. I'm no longer terrified of walking them outdoors.

    Feisty Fido by Patrica McConnell
    www.dogwise.com

    Basenji Mom of C3PO & TOPAZ

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  • QuercusQ

    @jys1011:

    Dash-I have to recommend this book that's the foundation for the class we're taking our dogs to. You can get it on Dogwise & it's really very good. It's basically the same idea that Andrea has explained to you here. Teaching the dog to look at you when another dog approaches or is nearby is within smelling distance :)

    It goes into a lot more detail & what to do in different situations…such as my dog can smell/see the dog BEFORE I can...and a bunch of other situation.

    I have to tell you that I never thought my dogs would be calm around other dogs..C3PO used to go BANANAS...I mean HAYWIRE when he even smelled another dog with in a 5 block radius...get the picture??!! And TOPAZ used to like to take a bite at my leg she was so nervous...They're not perfect but I will tell you he's 1,000x better then he used to be. I'm no longer terrified of walking them outdoors.

    Feisty Fido by Patrica McConnell
    www.dogwise.com

    You make me soooo proud! I love that you came into the world of basenjis and reactive dogs so willing to learn and help educate! Thank you :)

    Andrea Walters

    Quercus Basenjis

    NW Ohio

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  • jys1011J

    Awww shucks….Thank you :o it means a lot coming from you :) :) I absolutely value your opinion and your experience is invaluable for us newbies!

    Basenji Mom of C3PO & TOPAZ

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    @drew82 I've been doing rescue and breeding (not Basenjis, and not for 20 yrs now)... and I have to say that among responsible trainers, rescues, breeders and professional veterinary behaviorists, you won't find any who will say under 8 weeks is okay for any breed... and for many, 10 to 12 weeks is recommended. It is in fact illegal to take puppies under 8 weeks from some states and it should be in all of them. Call a few dozen rescues and ask them how many animals they deal with that have issues started from being placed too young. It is good you are working on things, just hopefully the physical responses won't continue. No breed needs to be swatted or even mildly hurt for training. Basenjis even less so than many. It hurts your relationship with the puppy, and you are punishing a baby for being a baby... there is no "rebellious thing"... just normal behavior you have to patiently train away from.
  • bunniculaB

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    T
    I agree with Pat. Its best to put the crate in the bedroom where you sleep. It helps if the puppy can see you so they feel safe. In the old days, we used to use a windup alarm clock because the rhythmic ticking reminds the puppy of the mothers heart beat. Of course you do not want to put it in the kennel/crate, but you can put it on top or next to it so the puppy hears the sound. You might be surprised, but another thing that can work is music. I do not mean rock and roll (lol), but soothing soft music can help. You want to make sure the bottom of the crate, towel, pad, or whatever is on the bottom remains dry. A wet cushion, towel, or bottom of crate can put a basenji puppy in distress and will eventually cause them to scream. They do not want to be trapped in the crate if they have an accident.
  • Lisa67L

    Puppy behavior

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    lvossL
    There are many different ways to train loose leash walking. I like training it in a class with distractions and for my baby puppies that is really where they learn what a leash is. I took my boys to class for the first time this week and the only thing we worked on was loose leash. We started just standing in place and click/treat for loose leash. Then we would like a step and when the puppy followed we click/treat again when the leash is loose. The boys were walking pretty good with me and my husband for most of the class. I also like using a long line for loose leash, it really seems to help them understand that being near me is the behavior I want since they have the choice to go quite a distance from me but are only get a click/treat if they are close enough for me to touch them. Make sure you are using really yummy treats in class, it helps you to compete with the distractions. Many people bring kibble or other so-so treats that the dogs are happy working for at home but can't compete with the excitement of class.
  • crystalncodyC

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    wizardW
    I'm not sure, in your situation, I would leave the dog outside until he made the decision to come in. It almost sounds as if the dog had bad experiences inside at the previous home and outside was the only place he could stay or maybe was forced to stay; anyway you now have to counteract all that. All the good points have been made by others, now you have to put them all together. Do not let the dog outside without a long lead (long closthesline or whatever); when you say come reel in the lead and treat and praise. You have to be consistent too; use the same word, treat immediately, etc. Also I don't think I would leave the dog loose outside until this is overcome. If possible I would also take the time to be outside with your dog (still on the lead) and play with him and praising and treating for any good interaction he does. Also you might want to have a special treat just for the come command and for entering the house. He does not get this treat until he comes and/or he enters the house - but make it something really special that is not given except for this purpose.
  • lvossL

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    lvossL
    I will try to be good and update each week so if you want to follow along you can. The things that you need is at least 5 boxes, one that should be labeled "Food" and is the only box that gets food in it, so the others aren't cotaminated with the food scent, treats that your dog really loves, and some different areas to work in. The first week the boxes are all in a line. Before I set L'Ox down to work, show him that I am putting the treats in the treat box then I do a "shell game" with the box, tapping it against the other boxes in the line and usually saying things like, "Where's your treat? Is it in this box? Oh, look at this box it looks so good." etc, and at some point switching the food box with one of the other boxes so that he doesn't just cue into the last box I was at and has to really work to find the treats. We do 3 searches in a training session and our goal for the week is to work in 5 locations. Mine will probably be the kitchen, the living room, the backyard, the school down the street, and at a friend's house. It makes things much easier if you have someone to help you but you can work by yourself using a tether or baby gate.
  • Ninabeana26N

    Because I am new

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    Ninabeana26N
    http://www.asfa.org/ Go there & click on the events tab. It lists all the upcoming events & shows that there are trials in Leesburg on the 31st & 1st :)