In need of a little assistance


  • When he does that I would separate him from the kids by body blocking him away and tell him no or give a no reward marker (that is what we do here…it is sort of an errrrr noise) to tell him this is not acceptable and reward if he breaks off the behavior and moves away. This may take a time, my guy tends to be very persistent. I rarely use my hands to move him away in situations like that because it may turn things into a game and also dogs tend to use their bodies to make others move.

    Same if you want him out of the kitchen and he ignores the verbal command use your body to make him move out 🙂

    Yeah...my dogs are snoozing away here too...I think we need to head off to bed 😃

    I am serious though. If you worry about not getting the info just from reading training books try some videos. Here is a link to Kikopup on youtube she has some very nice training videos up 🙂


  • Thank you, you're a life saver. Can I drive to you and you just train both Diesel and I? Haha. Bed is calling my name and i'm not even 21 yet. (I will be in July)

    Also, please excuse my poor typing skills. I've somehow managed to break most of my nails off so the tips are sensitive and its quite interesting to type


  • 😃 That is a long way to drive for training sessions 😉 But a meet up of some of us WI might be fun.

    No worries…I have had some epic spelling/typing mistakes.

    Saw your pictures of Diesel...he is a pretty little brindle boy!


  • Yeah, he's a pretty boy. I just love his white markings.
    Say… when Wattson gets tired does his tail go limp? I'm not sure if its just my boy or a breed trait.


  • Yeah, they uncurl their tail when they are tired, relaxed, or not feeling well…so yes it is a breed trait 🙂


  • I'm a little worried about having a child and him being so hyper and possibly hurting the child. Granted I may not be popping out a kid for a year or two but meh. Do you have kids?


  • No…we have no wee ones here. But I believe there are a few members on the forum that can help out with basenji and child advice 🙂


  • Thank you again I will get right on that…after I get a few hours of sleep in. I appreciate all the help. Feel free to give me a message anytime


  • Here's a great way to start playing with clicker training:
    http://www.clickertraining.com/node/167

    You can even get the kids into doing this. It's fun; treat it as a game.


  • How old is he?

    Jennifer


  • You've got plenty of time to get him trained before having children. If you look for posts by Buana, especially the earlier ones - she has some great advice and lots of pictures showing how Basenjis and children can be raised. We have followed through from the pre-birth of her son to the present day (she now has 3 Basenjis).

    There are plenty of us here who've had experience of Basenjis and babies together with every success.

    Any way don't worry about that, if I were you I'd concentrate on the clicker training as a prelim to anything else and as agilebasenji suggests get the children to participate but only under strict supervision. It would seem that he's had bad experiences with the hand.


  • He just turned a year in May. I'm going to find a nice clicker this upcoming weekend and start on that. 🙂 I will def. search for those posts.


  • Oakley has been a difficult pup, mainly my own fault because I over spoiled and under disciplined. I will say, clicker training has been a hit from day one, it really is successful with difficult and independent minded ones….and a side note- I bought a clicker but ended up usin it maybe ten times....I just use a "clut" sound, ony because it was difficult to ALWAYS have a clicker around when he did something good. For example, if I was in the kitchen cooking and I told him "down" when he jumped up at the stove..I'd be able to just make the clicker sound and he knew that was why I wanted from him. It's been the best thing for him and I...


  • I find using a clicker is often misunderstood or misinterpreted. You only need the device when you are training or trying to capture behaviour. Once the behaviour you want is put on cue, you don't require the clicker (unless you are training something new). Of course, you can dispense with a clicker and train perfectly well using a marker word instead. It is just that the clicker is a consistent sound with no inflection to cause confusion. But once the dog understands the command and the action associated with it, all you need do is invoke it and when he (hopefully) complies, reward with praise, treat, or whatever. No click is required, as he knows what you asked him to do and what you are rewarding. But do progress to intermittent rewarding, which is more effective (once the behaviour is set) than rewarding every time! (those casinos know what they are doing…....intermittent rewards are addictive!)


  • Agh, Diesel has now taken on biting(hard) at all times. I can be sitting down doing nothing and he just runs up and clamps down. He's even doing it to our guests now. Heeeelp.


  • @Enigmatic:

    Agh, Diesel has now taken on biting(hard) at all times. I can be sitting down doing nothing and he just runs up and clamps down. He's even doing it to our guests now. Heeeelp.

    I would think at this point you need a behaviorist, nothing here is going to help… only someone that can see in person what is going on....


  • Ok, we do not know how others feel about this but we came across this during some of our research. One post suggested that if you have a dog that is biting to use a mint flavored breath spray, and spray it in their mouth and tell them no.

    It would be interesting to see what the opinions are in this forum of using a Mint flavored breath spray as way to teach a dog not to bite.


  • How do you respond when he does this? And how often is it happening? Any particular circumstance? You might want to leave a short leash on him so that you can immediately take control of him, hopefully when you "see it coming", not after the fact. I concur that you need outside help with this….


  • I could be wrong but it doesn't sound malicious but it does sound like he has no bite inhibition or that he knows when it is appropriate or not to play bite, I agree that if you can't come uP with some super disciplined rules about how to teach him and corrections to use while teaching him then a behaviorist will work to implement these techniques. Since its escalating it's important you correct 100% of the time he exhibits this behavior and be 100% consistent in the household an with guests on training


  • I agree that it is really important that you find someone at this point to help you with this. I have looked up a few places for you to get in contact with and see if they might suit. These three are all in the Eau Claire area and all offer private lessons. I do not know about their training philosophy so that is something you will have to look into. I am not trying to endorse any of these, but I am hoping to give you a place to start in your area. If you have a local kennel club in the area you can also contact them and ask for recommendations ( I think the Indianhead Kennel Club might be in your area http://www.indianheadkennelclub.org/).

    http://www.abctc.com/

    http://www.rudedogu.com/rdu/index.html

    http://embarkdog.com/

    I also agree with the poster that mentioned that it sounds like he has a problem with bit inhibition.

    Has he ever broken skin? How are you currently responding when he does this? How are you correcting him?

    Be very careful not to correct him in a way that might escalate or compound his problem…the suggestion of spraying him with something like mint spray is probably not the way to go.

    I really do think you should get an experienced trainer/behaviorist to assist you with this. It can most likely be fixed with training...but the wrong approach could also make it much worse. Since we here have to rely only on your description of his behavior and never actually get to observe him our ability to help is limited. 🙂

Suggested Topics

  • 45
  • 21
  • 9
  • 27
  • 12
  • 8