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Walking Kipawa - need your ideas

Basenji Training
  • KipawaK

    We now have a greyhound style collar, and that is working extremely well for tugging. However, Kipawa spends most of the walk sniffing the ground. I'd like his head up more.

    So, ideas from you folks on what to do? The new collar does go quite high up on the neck, but his nose is doing most of the work on our walks.

    Fran Harder, BAB

    With Barney in my heart

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  • M

    Mojo is a sniffer too. Cannot keep him from it. We live on the California Delta, and have a lot of ducks in the area- he sniffs them out of the bushes and tries to chase them. Lucky for them they can fly!!

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  • ?

    I notice that Sonny often walks with his nose on the ground when we go for our early morning walks for some reason…the bad thing is he isn't very good at it....he walks into things all the time :p

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  • tanzaT

    In your puppy classes are you doing things like "watch me?"… or have you tried doing targets? If you search the Forum, lvoss has posted many time about using a target (usually a finger). Or both can be done with clicker training. Also, many of us have this problem with puppies when we first want to show them... nose to the ground in the show ring (a big no...no... LOL). I use the watch me command along with a short correction and then praise when the head come up....

    Pat Fragassi

    Tanza Basenjis

    www.tanzabasenjis.net

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  • DebraDownSouthD

    I do 2 kinds of walks with my dogs, both do no permit pulling. On most walks, I like to use a longer leash and I allow them to sniff and do whatever… it is what is fun for them. On exercise walks, I make them heel and keep head up. That way they get that sometimes they can meander and sniff, other times it's business.

    I have never tried it, but I suspect you can teach sniff, then NO SNIFF lol.

    Debra

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  • S

    A treat in your hand, making your pup watch you when you walk, will help.
    But I do think our dogs need to get a chance to just walk/sniff…

    Sharron Hurlbut

    BRAT, basenji rescue

    Evergreen basenji club

    Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue

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  • lvossL

    There is a 3 part series of videos on You Tube about loose lead walking that is good, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSmOOcELgxU

    The high rate of reinforcement for head up should really help.

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  • KipawaK

    @lvoss:

    There is a 3 part series of videos on You Tube about loose lead walking that is good, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSmOOcELgxU

    The high rate of reinforcement for head up should really help.

    Thank you Ivoss. I will watch those.

    Fran Harder, BAB

    With Barney in my heart

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  • KipawaK

    @sharronhurlbut:

    A treat in your hand, making your pup watch you when you walk, will help.
    But I do think our dogs need to get a chance to just walk/sniff…

    Yes Sharron! When I hold a treat in my hand he really has his head up. I will work on this with Kipawa.

    Fran Harder, BAB

    With Barney in my heart

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  • KipawaK

    @DebraDownSouth:

    I do 2 kinds of walks with my dogs, both do no permit pulling. On most walks, I like to use a longer leash and I allow them to sniff and do whatever… it is what is fun for them. On exercise walks, I make them heel and keep head up. That way they get that sometimes they can meander and sniff, other times it's business.

    I have never tried it, but I suspect you can teach sniff, then NO SNIFF lol.

    We do both on our walks, free leash and then heeling. But I would love him to have his head up more during free leash walking.

    Fran Harder, BAB

    With Barney in my heart

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  • A

    Walking

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    DebraDownSouthD
    @ryanp said in Walking: @ktiefen1 Hello - would you please share the type of harness that the behaviorist recommended? I have two basenjis and they're hunting instinct for squirrels and cats is taking its toll on my shoulder and back. Thank you! Behaviorists aren't in agreement on much of anything. Gentle Leaders have a lot of fans, but I'm not one of them. I believe in going back to step one and teaching your dogs not to ever pull on the leash. If someone is disabled or for some reason really needs one, that's different. But training your dog is best. If I had to use one, I'd back it with a harness or collar, especially walking 2 dogs, since getting out of one might be easier. Should add some DOGS need harnesses, not collars or head harnesses if they have neck injuries or even some eye issues. And even though I am not a big fan, they can provide more security. This article is from professionals and they prefer harnesses, as well as tell you how to choose: https://activepet.co.uk/dog-harness/ Abstract The effect on intraocular pressure (IOP) from dogs pulling against a collar or a harness was evaluated in 51 eyes of 26 dogs. The force each dog generated while pulling against a collar or a harness was measured. Intraocular pressure measurements were obtained during application of corresponding pressures via collars or harnesses. Intraocular pressure increased significantly from baseline when pressure was applied via a collar but not via a harness. Based on the results of the study, dogs with weak or thin corneas, glaucoma, or conditions for which an increase in IOP could be harmful should wear a harness instead of a collar, especially during exercise or activity.>> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16611932 For harnesses, there are currently a lot of articles about research on harnesses, which work best with the least inhibition to natural movement. This is a great article on it for anyone on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/notes/tierphysiotherapie-brigitte-jost/reflections-on-chest-harnesses/1369929759778331/
  • thunderbird8588T

    Advice needed please

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    thunderbird8588T
    @Patty: Shelley - I agree that Howards' was the better reaction but as I said it's understandable that you were worried because of your previous experiences. I hope now by everyones' comments and advice that you now realise that this is no major problem? Malaika is a different baby and she's yours to shape into a lovely girl - the good thing is that you've seen the worst and have the knowledge to avoid it!! Talking about growling - here's a laugh, Adonis, our Fula Tri, was excelled in obedience competition but from the age he started to the age he died he accompanied all his obedience actions with a low growl saying "I'm only doing this because you want me to." He had the sweetest temperament with young and old, known and unknown and the growl never meant "I'm going to bite you." :D:D Adonis sounded a real character and what a name, no wonder he had big ideas ;)
  • Kalima62K

    Walking tips for Duna.

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    Kalima62K
    I think mommies and daddys all, would not like to see their fur babes with a harness or gentle lead that makes them unhappy…but i think its just a way we feel for our loves, surely they get used to it in the end if it's introduced to them positivly ( gosh my spelling!!!!:mad:) I my self like you basenjimamma, is hesitating hoping that Duna will all at once behave during city walks....I'll give her some more time before i order the gentle leader...but it will only be in "extremis" when i'll really realize that i need to try an other method for her.:D Maybe the result will be so positive ( as read on this forum) that i'll think to myself: " Shucks!!! Why didn't i decide earlier???" Instead of looking like an isterick jerk, correcting, talking and stopping and turning back with a dog on the lead???:rolleyes:
  • wizardW

    Tips on house training needed

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    wizardW
    Gbroxon - no big deal. No one knew Luny (aka Tommy) would exhibit SA and especially not in such a severe form. And I understood what you were thinking - about people dumping dogs. One of my stupid neighbors has gone that route (they've had 6 different dogs in 3 years - I won't talk to them anymore). And I don't know how many times I've come across people who say "oh what a pretty dog, I'd like one like that" when they see me walking my dog. I almost always discourage them from getting a basenji (with that attitude no dog would be good for them). So I'm with you there.
  • S

    Reluctant to go for walks

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    ComicDom1C
    @SNA: Thank you very much for your comments. I probably have been expecting too much of her. I had a think about what had changed for her to be so obstinate, and I realised that I had been going without my kids. Good for me as it's less work, but my four year old, I realised, was excellent at getting her going again when she stopped, simply by walking ahead, and, if needed, calling her name. Taking my four year old son also means taking my 20 month old daughter in the sling, but at least we can do our 20-30 minute walk around the block. Now I just have to think of a way of convincing my once enthusiastic son who now complains of being tired and who doesn't want to go, of coming on the walk every day! LOL at carrying Dallas, I have to do that with Jessie nearly every time at the end too! Does your puppy have a favorite toy? If so put it in your back pocket and then put the leash on your pet and see how that works. Just make sure your pet cannot get it by jumping. In fact you can make a game of it by playing in your home with the toy and the dog for a about 5 mins before you walk. If your dog likes squeekie toys then you can also buy a replacement squeekie and keep it in your pocket. When you are walking and want the dogs attention you can squeek it inside your pocket. We use Martingale Collar's. Our Basenji seems to tolerate this style well. I also have noticed that leash control is very important when walking my Basenji. For that purpose I use a regular type 6 foot lead that I can wrap around my hand when I wish to take more control of my dog. I also have a very short lead ( about 2 feet or maybe less) that I use when I want the dog to concentrate on walking next to me. After my dog gets his business done, we are all about a constant pace walking. My perception is that if we are out for a walk to exercise him that we should concentrate on that aspect. I also have a 20 foot lead that I do use when we go on a leisure type walk. On that type of walk, I usually allow him to sniff and explore but I keep moving. He might run ahead slightly but then he will stop and wait and then do it again. The only time I use a flexie type or retractable leash is when I am going to let him have the room to run in a circle. Of course like any dog, the more rope or leash you give them the more they will take advantage of. My puppy does not walk perfectly, but what he does is pretty tolerable. After he does his business and we get our first 1 1/2 miles in, he settles down and gets the next 1 1/2 mile in quite nicely. Of course we did not start at that distance but we did start with at least a 1 to 1 1/2 miles when he was a little over 8 weeks old. After the walk, we worked on sit, stay, come, and lay down for about 10 to 15 mins. I always treated him with a couple of cheerio's or something similar directly after the walk. Actually he refused to drink any water until he got his cheerios. Hope this helps, Jason
  • spitfirekrl1S

    Need some advice…

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    QuercusQ
    <> He may not find a kong with PB all that important. I am sure there is something out there, that he would find rewarding enough to go into the kitchen when he KNOWS he is going in for the day. Try a raw marrow bone...like a knuckle or femur that you can get from a butcher. Try not feeding him at all, until he goes into the kitchen in the morning...if he wants to eat, he has to go into the kitchen. Other than that, it sounds like you are handling it very well. He may have to wear a lead to get him into the kitchen, then you can remove it. I imagine he was allowed to pretty much do whatever he wanted in his last home...so he is confused with the new restrictions, and boundaries you have put in place (ones that he should have had from the beginning). It is hard when a dog has to start from square one, especially when they have learned that using their mouth can get them what they want. Good for you for hanging in there. He will eventually learn that he has to cooperate. I would definitely use his food for reward for good behavior. Doesn't mean you have to withhold his food if he doesn't cooperate...but you can use his food to help him realize what you want him to do.