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Know when to walk away....

Basenji Training
  • ....know when to run! As mentioned by a member previously on this forum, running stimulates the dog to chase and follow. It is useful in police work where you want the dog to chase and hopefully bring down a subject. Malinois and GSD's are typically the breeds of choice for this activity. I don't see a lot of sight hounds in police work, although they are very quick and definitely like to chase moving objects. The thing of it is, they aren't normally aggressive with humans. Wouldn't know what to do with the subject once they caught him.

    But there is another reason for running that some might find useful. It can work very nicely to sharpen up a recall. With a dog that doesn't like to be left alone, running away after you summon the dog can help in changing a lackadaisical recall into a speedy one. I have used this technique with Basenjis and other non aggressive breeds, including a Greyhound. But you do have to know your breed and your dog, and it could produce an unwanted result with some dogs, which is why caution is advised until you see what kind of response you get.

    It's also a neat way to put a "Border Collie" drop on recall on an otherwise not so responsive dog. Run away calling your dog, and when he is close spin around and drop him. (obviously he must already know the command). I've managed to get an otherwise lazy dog to really hit the ground by doing this. But we are far away from what you are likely to be doing with the average Basenji unless you are into obedience.

    The more you know your dog the better you can put training tips to good use. I've never attended a clinic where I didn't learn something, even if it was what not to do! And I like to listen to experienced people. Often you will find a little gem of an idea that happens to be just the thing to get that little extra in your relationship with your dog. The trick is to separate good advice from advice that might not be appropriate for your dog or your breed.

    Some of my trainees, back in the day....
    01tipluckylady.jpg

  • @eeeefarm Good points. My own experience... When I went to Medfly (Karen's) to look at Basenjis I had my wife and son with me. Karen would bring out a dog and I would size them up. Would they look at me, would the come up to me, acknowledge me, kiss me, etc. I was looking for aggression.

    When she brought Jengo out the second time, I loved what I was seeing, so I asked my son (maybe 9 at the time) to run across the yard. I wanted to see if Jengo would run, show aggression... didn't actually know.

    Jengo ran with him, but never chased, jumped or nipped. EXACTLY what I was looking for. They ended up at a chain link fence with their backs to me looking at a horse in a pasture. I placed my hand on Jengo's back right up against his tail ready to recoil fast. He glanced back and went back to the horse. That's the second I knew I was screwed. I didn't want a Basenji, but this one was perfect. The rest is history.

    Most of the time if I run with mine in the backyard, they just look at me like "What are you doing, Monkey?" They sit there. I've just not had to deal with a chasing issue. Except for squirrels, goats, and dogs. Mostly squirrels.

    I miss my Aussie/Border Collie mix.

  • Let's also consider that when you chase your dog, the dog thinks it's a game and will run away from you. Like... "you can't catch me!" Man, Basenji's can bolt! On the other hand, when you are the one running away, the dog instinctively joins you because you are part of the dog's family/pack. This is not to be confused with a learned command to chase an assailant, in Police work, for example. That would be a totally different game of chase.

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  • Walking

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    DebraDownSouthD
    @ryanp said in Walking: @ktiefen1 Hello - would you please share the type of harness that the behaviorist recommended? I have two basenjis and they're hunting instinct for squirrels and cats is taking its toll on my shoulder and back. Thank you! Behaviorists aren't in agreement on much of anything. Gentle Leaders have a lot of fans, but I'm not one of them. I believe in going back to step one and teaching your dogs not to ever pull on the leash. If someone is disabled or for some reason really needs one, that's different. But training your dog is best. If I had to use one, I'd back it with a harness or collar, especially walking 2 dogs, since getting out of one might be easier. Should add some DOGS need harnesses, not collars or head harnesses if they have neck injuries or even some eye issues. And even though I am not a big fan, they can provide more security. This article is from professionals and they prefer harnesses, as well as tell you how to choose: https://activepet.co.uk/dog-harness/ Abstract The effect on intraocular pressure (IOP) from dogs pulling against a collar or a harness was evaluated in 51 eyes of 26 dogs. The force each dog generated while pulling against a collar or a harness was measured. Intraocular pressure measurements were obtained during application of corresponding pressures via collars or harnesses. Intraocular pressure increased significantly from baseline when pressure was applied via a collar but not via a harness. Based on the results of the study, dogs with weak or thin corneas, glaucoma, or conditions for which an increase in IOP could be harmful should wear a harness instead of a collar, especially during exercise or activity.>> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16611932 For harnesses, there are currently a lot of articles about research on harnesses, which work best with the least inhibition to natural movement. This is a great article on it for anyone on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/notes/tierphysiotherapie-brigitte-jost/reflections-on-chest-harnesses/1369929759778331/
  • Does anybody know of lure coursing in Texas

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    This weekend is the NLCC in Cat spring, next weekend is in Decatur but its a terrrible field. My dogs got totally shreded there on the cut cotton plants growing there so we won't be back. They usually have events in Dec at Cat springs and Waller, but were overcome by othere events this yr so the clubs all combined events at the beginning of the month instead. There will be coursing at Hutto the first and last weekend in March. McKinney has an event scheduled for Jan that we will attend with our 4 if the weather is good enought to make the 8 hour drive. We will mostly be doing events in north TX this yr vs going to the Houston area. Just too expensive to drive 12 hours each way when there are enough events closer to home. 90% of the events are AKC now, the clubs have stopped doing ASFA for the most part as entries were so low.
  • Using a harness for walks (Gentle Leader)

    Basenji Training
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    QuercusQ
    @SNA: I tried a head halter ages ago, for at least 3 weeks, but she just hated it. She kept trying to get it off, even after three weeks, and I just couldn't do it to her anymore. A couple of books I'm following at the moment say that head halters suppress rather than correct the behaviour. She's doing well now. Well, both the head halter, and the chest harness suppress the pulling behavior. You have to train the desired behavior at the same time. The idea is that you have to stop them from pulling, or else you can't make any progress training the correct behavior. Pulling is a self rewarding behavior; in their minds, they pull, and it makes them get to where they want to be. You have to stop that association, and retrain them that when the leash is loose you get to go where you want to be. Neither walking aide can do that, only the training.
  • Reluctant to go for walks

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    ComicDom1C
    @SNA: Thank you very much for your comments. I probably have been expecting too much of her. I had a think about what had changed for her to be so obstinate, and I realised that I had been going without my kids. Good for me as it's less work, but my four year old, I realised, was excellent at getting her going again when she stopped, simply by walking ahead, and, if needed, calling her name. Taking my four year old son also means taking my 20 month old daughter in the sling, but at least we can do our 20-30 minute walk around the block. Now I just have to think of a way of convincing my once enthusiastic son who now complains of being tired and who doesn't want to go, of coming on the walk every day! LOL at carrying Dallas, I have to do that with Jessie nearly every time at the end too! Does your puppy have a favorite toy? If so put it in your back pocket and then put the leash on your pet and see how that works. Just make sure your pet cannot get it by jumping. In fact you can make a game of it by playing in your home with the toy and the dog for a about 5 mins before you walk. If your dog likes squeekie toys then you can also buy a replacement squeekie and keep it in your pocket. When you are walking and want the dogs attention you can squeek it inside your pocket. We use Martingale Collar's. Our Basenji seems to tolerate this style well. I also have noticed that leash control is very important when walking my Basenji. For that purpose I use a regular type 6 foot lead that I can wrap around my hand when I wish to take more control of my dog. I also have a very short lead ( about 2 feet or maybe less) that I use when I want the dog to concentrate on walking next to me. After my dog gets his business done, we are all about a constant pace walking. My perception is that if we are out for a walk to exercise him that we should concentrate on that aspect. I also have a 20 foot lead that I do use when we go on a leisure type walk. On that type of walk, I usually allow him to sniff and explore but I keep moving. He might run ahead slightly but then he will stop and wait and then do it again. The only time I use a flexie type or retractable leash is when I am going to let him have the room to run in a circle. Of course like any dog, the more rope or leash you give them the more they will take advantage of. My puppy does not walk perfectly, but what he does is pretty tolerable. After he does his business and we get our first 1 1/2 miles in, he settles down and gets the next 1 1/2 mile in quite nicely. Of course we did not start at that distance but we did start with at least a 1 to 1 1/2 miles when he was a little over 8 weeks old. After the walk, we worked on sit, stay, come, and lay down for about 10 to 15 mins. I always treated him with a couple of cheerio's or something similar directly after the walk. Actually he refused to drink any water until he got his cheerios. Hope this helps, Jason
  • We Can Now Walk Like Normal

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    JazzysMomJ
    but I was concerned that too many treats was not good. Depends on what you use for treats. The treats should be tiny – like pea size or smaller. Sometimes I use "Carry-Outs", which are soft and maybe an inch long; I get about 6 treats out of one of those. Or I use puppy kibble -- a different brand than what I feed Keoki -- one piece of kibble is the whole reward {ya gotta wonder why Gypsy -- 70 lbs-- would even care, but she responds very well to those tidbits!}. And I only give food treats as a reward for behavior, never just to give the dogs a treat. If I want to give them a treat because they are so darned cute, I give them chewies of some sort, or a peanut butter stuffed {okay, not stuffed but you know....} bone to work on. They do not get those type of things every day.
  • One way to know if they need to go out

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    Ahhhhh!! the Basenji sense of humour!!!