Registration papers should be proof, but without DNA confirmation one can never be positive. I know a breeder (in another breed) who was getting old and a bit confused and I am sure some of her pups' parents were not accurately attributed, but the pups were purebred, just possibly from different sire. Coat colour can vary tremendously and it's more likely when it isn't a disqualification in the breed. If you are buying a dog described as purebred then there should be registration papers given to you. A DNA test should tell you whether the dog is Basenji or mixed with something else, if you really want to know.
Collar Question
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I'm not sure why he doesn't like to walk with the collars, but I have met all his dogs and they are really well mannered so I don't see a problem using a collar being that I like them better because of convenience.
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He has had problems with the dogs climbing and their collars getting stuck on knobs and such.
huh…weird....well...choke collars are the worst for that..so maybe that is why he suggested no collar at all. IMO, dogs shouldn't be so unsupervised that they are scaling dressers or doors and getting their collars caught...but, JMO...I guess accidents can happen...but it is WAY more likely that a dog will slip out the front door and be lost forever without ID, than it is for a dog to die in a collar related death.
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Andrea is pointing out one of the greatest debates I've seen on lists for the last 10 yrs: which is worse, risk of collar related injury or risk of getting loose without ID? I think this comes down to a personal decision based on a personal situation.
I think the question here is what kind of collar to wear on a walk, and I like the martingale. 14" for young adult, as I recall. My females are wearing 14"-16" diameter collars now. Have fun shopping! -
My dogs wear rounded leather collars w/ID tags inside – well, Keoki WILL when he stops growing. In the meantime he wears an adjustable.
For walks w/Jazz I do use a choke collar. It is loose most of the time, and any correction is just a quick pop and release, so there's no "choking" effect.
I have a martingale for her, but I don't like it; it's less effective for her. I do plan to try it w/Keoki later, so don't know what I'll use with him on walks. Right now his regular collar is working fine because he hasn't started pulling yet.
With Gypsy I use a harness because she pulls less with the harness; she pulls HARD against any collar I've ever used.
I play it by ear w/every dog I get and just use what works best w/the individual dogs. -
I've been wanting to buy one of those martingale collars which are thicker around the neck and have a fancy design on them. I've been googleing them but only find the ones for Greyhounds and am unsure what size to buy since our little guy is 6mts. He doesn't need a turtle neck collar. Any ideas?
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There is a vendor at the shows in the Bay area that sells them, I only visit occasionally so I can't think of the name, but I bought one last fall at the Del Valle shows. That's easist, 'cause you can try them on. Many are adjustable tho, so even buying on line should be fine.
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If in doubt, buy 2-3 collars and try them on your dog when you get him. Return the unused ones to the store when you take your pooch shopping.
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Here is an article that discusses the pros and cons of various collars and no pull harnesses.
http://www.treattotrain.com/Soggy%20Paws%20June%2012%202005.pdf -
@Vanessa626:
I've been wanting to buy one of those martingale collars which are thicker around the neck and have a fancy design on them. I've been googleing them but only find the ones for Greyhounds and am unsure what size to buy since our little guy is 6mts. He doesn't need a turtle neck collar. Any ideas?
Vannessa, if you email the woman at All Hounds Apparel and tell her you have a basenji, she should be able to help you. There are many of us in Northern Califonia with collars from her. http://www.allhoundsapparel.com
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This one is a tuffy to say the least
I think everyone has an opinion on what works & doesn't work for them. And I can honestly tell you that I have tried a number of collars AND leads LOL
Talk about trial and error. My poor husband is so confused now he's like WHAT COLLAR WHAT LEAD??In the end we use a martingale leash (simple a martingale collar attached to a 6ft leash) to walk them & at first we used a gentle leader or snoot loop to train to walk nicely. Training them with this takes time & lots of effort.
When they go on their extra long (25 ft) exploring walk (I only use this in large field or hiking when I know no one else or no other dogs will be around) I use their harnesses BUT the harness I use attaches to the lead at the top of their backs not in front. So really it's whatever is more effective for you & your dogs.
I got all 3 at the All Hounds & I REALLY love their service! They are really nice & helpful.
http://www.allhoundsapparel.com
Short Story on choke chains: I worked with a trainer who used choke chains & I did not like using this because I nearly choked my little girl to death once while we were attacked by an off leash dog. It was an accident & she was fine but I could have really hurt her. I also think the choke chains have a negative reward for a dog while walking. If they lunge at something…person, dog, squirrel, bird etc...they will choke themselves & associate something negative with that.
