Skip to content

2yr old Basenji nipping problem HELP!

Behavioral Issues
  • our Basenji Koufax recently got kicked out of daycare because he kept nipping at the workers (to get them to play). They said he also has issues with nipping other dogs.

    Koufax is a such a great dog he never growls and only nips to get you to play. He is never aggressive over food, toys…anything out of possessiveness.

    I dont think Koufax knows when to stop playing when he is in the "zone". Sometimes the other dogs growl and he will keep trying to play. How do we train him to understand enough is enough? Its like sometimes he has no stop button. Im afraid he will get badly injured all in the vain of just wanting to play...

    My boyfriend has all but given up on daycare and thinks Koufax needs a playmate aka another basenji(female puppy pref). Is this a good idea? Will Koufax annoy them... or do basenjis adapt better to other basenjis? Has anyone out there added additional basenjis to the family or had a basenji that just wont stop playing?

  • What does Koufax breeder suggest?

  • When we got Eddie he was almost 3 and friendly but not well socialized with other dogs. He did the same thing, nipped to get someone to chase him. If the other dog was OK and willing to chase him and they played well, fine, but if not, I leashed him and gave a time out. It took a long time but he finally stopped nipping so much; but he also became less playful. He only knew one way and has not really learned any other play patterns. He still will nip a little to get play started, but if the other dog growls, he will stop.

    As for nipping humans, he needs to stop, he could nip the wrong person and be labeled a biter and get a fine. We call it a nip, but many feel that if a dog has his open mouth and teeth on them, it is a bite. I have heard (never used it myself) that a citronella spray is very useful in stopping nipping. Doesn't harm the dog, just makes them go "yuck".

    But as Sharron said, if you have contact with his breeder, ask what they suggest.

  • I'm going to suggest (surprise!) Control Unleashed. If you are fortunate, you can find a CU class. If you cannot, there are 2 CU dvds, a CU book and a CU list through yahoo groups. You can find the book/dvd through dogwise.com or cleanrun.com. If you get the book, read it at least twice. I'm going to suggest lots of Whiplash turn, Leave it, Relaxation Protocal and the OFF SWITCH games. I put the Off Switch game in all caps for a reason as I think you will benefit greatly from this, but do the others too.

  • Thanks so much guys! We will try some of these suggestions and keep you updated on the results :)

  • Well, ouch… Cara is extremely mouthy and does the nipping for Arwen to play. Arwen puts her in her place fast, so that helps. I have worked on her having a very soft mouth, and she leaves no marks, is careful. But she will hold my hand in her mouth as she goes to sleep rubbing me with her tongue, lol. I do love it.

    However, teaching no bite is critical if there is a problem. My friend Kathy worked with a few of my friends who had problems with mouthy nippers. Hope this article helps. If not, you can write her directly.

    http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=1128&S=1&SourceID=47

    You also have to teach him a new way to get attention. Such as come SIT in front of you. THEN PLAY. Nip? Ignore.
    http://k9deb.com/nilif.htm

  • I was just watching Uzie play, and was reminded of Buddy and B's in general. Uzie jumped and nipped the withers of his housemate Candi and though she is very forgiving, the nip only got the play to an escalated non-play and growl that I extinguished right away before any aggression. That is the B way of playing. Another B may be the best answer for you if you can manage. Playing is better exercise than any walk on the leash we can give them anyway. They tire themselves out, and Bingo, you got happy, napping Basenjis.

  • My B is also a bit nippy at times, but he's learned (over time) to be more gentle. I think Basenjis in general have this type of mentality with playing (as it seems common within the breed). I suppose the key thing is managing the behavior and not letting it escalate to being too rough.

    I agree on the last post about playing vs. walking. I can take my Basenji on a walk for a solid hour and he won't be very tired. Encourage a few B-500s and play a few games with my B and he'll be napping in no time.

    I think the short bursts of high intensity exercises become more effective at wearing these guys out. Just my opinion though.

  • @Kananga:

    I agree on the last post about playing vs. walking. I can take my Basenji on a walk for a solid hour and he won't be very tired. Encourage a few B-500s and play a few games with my B and he'll be napping in no time.

    I think the short bursts of high intensity exercises become more effective at wearing these guys out. Just my opinion though.

    I totally agree. In the course of Kipawa's day, we go to an off-leash dog park so he can run like crazy. For the evening walk, we do controlled leash walking. He is definitely more tired after the off leash play time where he runs like a bat out of hell!

Suggested Topics

  • 1 yo constantly nipping 14 week old

    Behavioral Issues
    6
    1 Votes
    6 Posts
    618 Views
    ZandeZ
    @macattack Mku and Kito are delighted to hear it !
  • Desperate for help with my biting basenji

    Behavioral Issues
    8
    0 Votes
    8 Posts
    9k Views
    M
    Hi - a few thoughts in case they are helpful, although ours doesn't bite. For biting: Figure out the reasons for biting first. if it is around toys/possessiveness - we gave him the toy on his bed and let him be there gnawing on his own. Then walked close by (not too close) and threw him something yummier in his view (eg a small piece of sausage that he can eat quickly) and walk away. Do this at random (though not too often) and have different people in your family do it. Soon she will associate your coming close to her and her favorite toy as something good. Progressively get closer (ie throw the sausage from closer), and then squat down, then touch on head briefly, then hand sausage to her, then move hand towards toy but don't touch it. By this time she will anticipate your coming to her when she has a toy as "yay, something more tasty coming my way". Evenutally, you should pick up the toy/bone hand her the sausage then hand back the toy/bone. Pretty soon she'll let you pick up her toy/bone without biting or thinking you are going to take it away. The key is to progress slowly in terms of distance etc, and mix up the treats (sausage, cheese, chicken). -if she does bite someone, then immediately isolate her in a basenji-proof room where she cant destroy things. And when letting her out, ask her to sit and be calm for a few seconds first so that she's not hysterical and she learns to watch and listen to you. There may be something else that one does for biting, so maybe others or a trainer would have good ideas. For pulling on walks, 2 things worked for us: A gentle leader - suggested by our trainer. This means she can't control her head (if they pull forward their head moves to the side like a horses halter) and so she won't be able to forge ahead. It will give your arm/shoulder immediate relief while you work on the rest. In the yard and on walks start rewarding with small treats every time she looks back at you/checks on you. At first she'll do it by chance, or if she is checking to see what you are doing, and sometimes it's a side glance. As soon as she does it - give big verbal praise and get her to come to you and give her a treat and lots of pets. She will begin to do this more often. initially treat every time she looks at you, and once she is good at it, then randomly. On walks you'll find her looking back and coming back to you more often, and as a corollary less pulling, which is a relief. We usually keep the leash in one hand and a handful of small, soft treats in the other - so you don't run out and have to keep going into your pocket to get treats. So, she'll come and nose your hand and you can pet some times, treat sometimes, etc. The one thing is to progress slowly, praise the right behavior and don't get impatient (count to 10, stop training or go do something else for a bit till you feel ready to try again). When doing the praise really have an excited voice and go overboard even! Our basenji really loves being praised. It takes more time perhaps than other methods, but it's long lasting because they see these behaviors as rewarding so you don't have to get into a battle of wills. And once they get the idea, they'll improve rapidly, even over one walk. Good luck!
  • New to the basenji world, need HELP!

    Behavioral Issues
    30
    0 Votes
    30 Posts
    20k Views
    C
    @DebraDownSouth: Andrea, great post. I have taught many dogs bite inhibition at a much older age, though… only thing you wrote I don't heartily agree with. Yes, I understand that it is possible but I'd like to know more about it. Generally it's accepted that teaching remedial ABI is difficult to do at best, at least amongst the trainers I know, talk to and read. Dunbar says he's done it but I tried to pin him down at a seminar and he was evasive. I was hoping to get specifics, training program and how to test it or pointed at one. He said to buy his DVDs. I did. Best I could find was teaching a better ritualized bite and jaw prudence and done my best to scour books and websites as well (and speaking with colleagues, natch). What I found didn't really satisfy me. I mean, when I think of teaching ABI, I am thinking of teaching it so that it holds up even under duress since that's when it's most important. For instance a colleague was recently contacted about a Level 5 biter. If it's possible to teach reliable ABI in adult dogs THAT dog should be a candidate for sure. I'd love to assist someone teaching it to a dog like that, or in training a dog that has poor ABI with other dogs. How could you train and test that safely or humanely? What is the liability there? Pretty serious, I would think. I do remember my first basenji experience though. I have trained and worked with dogs my entire adult life. So imagine my surprise when squeaking caused her to bite MORE, lol. Change of tactics. Life offers us so many opportunities to learn new things. :) Ah yes, I've had one of those. I changed to a calm "too bad" and then removing myself. Worked MUCH better. Depends on the dog. EDIT: I just looked at the site you linked and what she is talking about is what I refer to as 'jaw prudence'. When I use ABI, I'm referring to how hard the dog bites when it bites, not if it puts its mouth on you. For instance, your Rottie I would say had great ABI but iffy jaw prudence. OTOH, there are dogs with great jaw prudence but the one time they use their mouths they do it will full jaw force. I'd much prefer the former.
  • Basenji, I'm Overwhelmed…..HELP!!!

    Behavioral Issues
    63
    0 Votes
    63 Posts
    35k Views
    DebraDownSouthD
    Folks ignore Pottypuppy… spammer link to blog selling.
  • Basenji Help!!

    Behavioral Issues
    9
    0 Votes
    9 Posts
    3k Views
    V
    Move the crates to different rooms. The female won't be able to see what's going on. Give the male his food first, then feed the female a little later. Don't let them out of the crates at the same time.
  • Very Aggresive Basenji Pup. Help!

    Behavioral Issues
    13
    0 Votes
    13 Posts
    6k Views
    BanditB
    Whoooops! Sorry Andrea….. I meant to say "Then I give him the treats".....LOL But I guess you got the idea.