My Gossy pulled tremendously for a long time and I tried all kinds of tips from different collars to harnesses – once she started wearing a harness, she slowed down noticeably.
I have the EasyWalk (and measured her exactly as described) but it has so much hardware (metal adjustment buckles) that it kept slipping down her legs and she'd trip. Finally I put it on backwards (so the front strap goes over her back instead) and it works much much better - course that defeats the purpose of the original design but it does keep her in check.
However, the thing that really worked the best ... I put her in a 3-week class on loose leash walking and wow what a difference that made. Effective and consistent training!
Larz collars and harnesses
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The collar and leash on video seem to work really well. The price is a little up there but if it works then price is nothing. Hope someone has used it. I would like to know more.
Rita Jean
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Otis' collar is very similar, made by Lupine pet products, called that martingale. It works great, fairly inexpensive ( about $16-18) and they have a lifetime guarantee, even if the dog bit it into a million pieces. Send it back to them and they will replace it, no questions asked.
I love the quality and the fun patterns they come in, Otis like how it feels, I think..
I guess, since I watched to video once more, Otis collar is similar in style and function, but his does not have what seems like bungee cord material, his is regular heavyduty ribbon, or banding material. -
I have a custom made collar which tightens something like a Martingale, but hangs loose the rest of the time. However, I still use an Easy Walk harness to walk Shaye, because with only the collar, she chokes herself until she nearly vomits. She doesn't seem to care how much it chokes her when she wants to pull toward something. I have become convinced through her that any type of choke collar, soft or otherwise, is not a good thing, at least for my dog.
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Otis will pull too, at least if he sees something of interest, but I was told by our Ob trainer to pull the collar up as far as you can, almost under his chin, and viola he doesn't pull anymore. It works great, so I haven't had to get a harness for him, although before this "pull the collar up" thing I seriously considered it.
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I tried keeping Shaye's collar up high on her neck, but she works it down by dropping her head over and over, and keeping her nose on the ground. If I keep the collar high the leash has to be real short, and it's a struggle constantly, as well as the problem that she doesn't get to walk at her own pace or sniff the ground, which she loves to do. She misses lots of stuff because that nose won't come up. :rolleyes:
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Yes, you are correct about that, I usually have to readjust his collar, if he starts pulling, so far mabe twice ina 30min+ walk. He is getting better..
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DO you have a pic Basenjimamma?
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Yes I do, although this is from Lupines website, Otis didn't feel like waking up and pose for pictures..LOL. They call it their combo collar
and here is the website,
http://www.lupinepet.com/dog/med_dog.php.I like the quality work and the fact that they are 100% guaranteed, even if chewed, swallowed and back out..
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I like the collar looks more narrow like real collar not like martingale but don't it work about the same.
Rita Jean
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Rita,
it does work the same, they do also have a wider one, but it is for larger dogs, so it won't fit around the neck, too large..
I am also looking into getting Otis one of the collars Debbey Bartos makes, I love the look of those as well. -
I want to get one of those collars for Jaycee from Debby Bartos. I sent her a email and she sent me back how to measure just got to get it done.
Rita Jean
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These types of collars and leashes worry me. It might seem and sound better, but in my mind they seem almost more dangerous.
Fist you have less control thanks to the stretch. Standing at road crossings and the dog suddenly leaps forward, there is nothing you can do…he will get that extra length.
Also, lets say the dog sprints off and hits the end of the leash. He is yanked to a stop no matter if there is a "spring effect" on the leash/collar or not, but with a spring you are also applying a backward whip motion compared to a standard where the dog will just stop. In my mind that sounds more damaging.
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The Martingale collars is the only way I will ever go with Otis, due to the fact that the dogs can not back out of it..I do not want to ever have to experince that. The bungee type though, you are right..
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We used the bungee type leads with some of the dogs at the shelter. Some things that I learned using these leads. First off, they come in different "strengths", so for small dogs you would get one that has more give than for large dogs. If you use the correct one for the size and power of the dog you are using the "give" is really not that much. What it does do for you is that it acts as a shock absorber. It actually reduces the force on both your shoulder and the dog. Believe me when you are working with a 100 pound untrained wild child of a dog, these can make a huge difference even for the short walk from the indoor pens to the outdoor runs.
For pullers, I prefer to use something like an Easy Walk Harness to prevent the pulling.
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I've come to the conclusion there is no perfect collar for walking your dog.
There are times when the dog simply doesn't want to go where you do and tries to back out of the collar – perfect situation for a martingale.
Then there are the times when they want to walk at a fast trot and pull you along -- time for the GentleLeader head harness or body harness type.
And of course there are the situations where they lunge after a squirrel or rabbit right into traffic -- regular collars and leashes seem to work here.
I think you just have to pick the one that works for most of the situaitons you encounter and then work on obedience training, training, training. -
The mystery of collars still continues….I'm going to try the larz set, My three B's get all tangled up separetly and on a petco coupling leash, chocking too, pulling. When I just had Belle she walked on the gental leader too.
We will see, Having 2 additional B's has been an experience, good, but the dymanics has changed in this house. Dog parks are my solution to getting them tired.....run, run, run,.
Let you know how the larz works when I receive them. -
think you just have to pick the one that works for most of the situaitons you encounter and then work on obedience training, training, training.
I agree, training has got to be the biggest part in this equation, then the type of harness/collar. Ultimately do we not want the dogs to obey what we want them to do, as supposed to have a gear that forces them to do what you want them to do?
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I have the dual coupler from Larz Gear for my 2 basenjis. The shock absorber works very well and is very comfortable for our use. With that said, the coupler can be a challenge but I mainly use it when I take them places (i.e. the store, over to a friends, etc.) but still use seperate leashes when walking them to do their business as my older B prefers the flexi and having distance between him and the other one when going potty.
I do use the leash with my younger B (on her own) as she is a major puller with squirrels around and it works very well when just walker her (and saves me from all the pulling).
They do have 100% guarantee so if you do decide you don't like it you can return it.
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I have the dual coupler from Larz Gear for my 2 basenjis. The shock absorber works very well and is very comfortable for our use. With that said, the coupler can be a challenge but I mainly use it when I take them places (i.e. the store, over to a friends, etc.) but still use seperate leashes when walking them to do their business as my older B prefers the flexi and having distance between him and the other one when going potty.
I have a coupler (a Ruffwear one) that I got when I just had 2 b kids, but rarely used it as Ruby hated it. I would say 9 out of 10 walks, both my adults are really good on lead - I walk them together of 6ft separate leads. What I find really helps is that they run around off lead for about 10 or 15 minutes before I walk them. My 9mo. pup still needs work, but she is getting much better - she usually gets 1/1 walks as she needs the training :D. This morning I walked all 3 together and was stunned that there was no pulling from any of them - slack 6ft. leads the whole 3 miles. Good kids.
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I agree, training has got to be the biggest part in this equation, then the type of harness/collar. Ultimately do we not want the dogs to obey what we want them to do, as supposed to have a gear that forces them to do what you want them to do?
Yes, training is key. But not all animals respond the same way to the same thing. Sometimes it is trial and error as to what works best for which dog. In my house, it is individual even with the types of treat that work - Ruby prefers cheese, Brando beef liver, and Liyah chicken. IMHO, same with collars and leads.
