Walking more than one at a time

Basenji Training

  • I have two 1 yr olds (technically one is 11mos, but that doesn't matter) which I walk once or twice a day. They have a fenced in yard to run in so the walk is mostly for training and extra exercise (for them and me). I always take both because they have MUCH more energy than I do and taking them solo would cut their walks in half (plus the one would totally freak out if his mate was gone – that's another issue). I walk them both on 6' leads with a choke collar. The collar is high on the neck, I walk with them to my left and snap back if they get ahead of me. However, at times my shoulder is nearly about to fall off. Some days they're great and others terrible. Some times I might give in a bit and let them have the full 6' as long as they don't pull. But for the most part try to keep them at my side. Then some days, like today, they don't respond to correction at all and pull so hard I turn around and say, "too bad, no walk for you" (too bad, it was a nice sunny day for a walk today). I recently took them out on a single Flex leash (with a connecting lead) and it was great... it was like driving with cruise control on... ahhhhhh. So how do you guys with multiple dogs walk them? How important is it to ALWAYS walk with them on a short lead?


  • when i walk my mom's b's i use a 6 foot with a connecting lead. it is actually easier than walking vegas alone. sunshine keeps him in line for me. i guess the importance of walking them on a short lead depends on where you are walking them and whether or not they are going to be in show ring in the future. if there are other dogs, or the possibility i would definitely only use a short lead. if your dogs are going to show i would recommend only using a short lead too.


  • Not going to show, just getting exercise. I just walk them around the neighborhood. There are always other dogs around. I always shorten the lead when I can see them because they will always start to pull. Actually as much as they run around the yard and the house together, I probably don't NEED to walk them every day, but I want to try to get them into good habbits while they're young.


  • I have the exact same issues as CMD & really while I love my new buff arms it's starting to get pretty frustrating.

    My dog trainer showed us how to do the chase me game to make sure their attention is on me but this lasts for about 20 minutes & then they could care less where I'm at. It get's very hairy when another dog is nearby & I really have a hard time controlling them.

    Any suggestions would be great.

    I'm afraid of the FlexiLead because if a squirrel should happen to be in the vacinity I'm scared they will just snap right off & be gone :eek:


  • just passing along a tip I learned (through lots of trial and error!)….

    training the dog to pay attention to you when you walk - I found this easier to do OFF leash. as silly as this sounds, it worked GREAT. my trainer suggested this after he & I were at our wits end w/ my B, and his issues when walking (not paying attention to me, could care less, going this way and that way, etc..)

    in a fenced area, I let him off leash. and just walked a set path. casually walked. whenever my dog caught up to me, by my side, he got rewarded w/ a high value treat.

    my trainer explained like this: you're a passenger in the car w/ a friend, going some place new. You don't pay close attention to the road since you are NOT driving. you're fiddling w/ radio, sipping a coffee, reading a map, looking at the people in the car next to you, etc... same for the dog. he KNOWS you're "driving". he KNOWS you're at the end of the leash, and thus chooses to let you drive while he explores. take off the leash, and the dog MUST watch you, pay attention to the driver, to get the reward.

    my set path included ALOT of turns, go straight, right, left, backwards, etc... always changing it so my dog didn't become accustomed to one path.

    once we mastered this skill, I re-introduced the leash, and had much better success. of course, this skill needs to be practiced ALOT.


  • <>
    What a great explanation! I love it!
    I have found that even the most well behaved when walking by herself dog, can turn into a nightmare when walking with a friend. It is really difficult to use the "be a tree" method with two, because one pull, you stop, but the other one might not be pulling...IOW there is no cause and effect message because you are dealing with two subjects.
    If I am walking for fun, health and leisure, I just take one dog, and rotate who it will be. If we are traveling, and I need to walk multiple dogs at one time, I either use a coupler as described above (power steering) or each dog on a leather lead on either side of me..and they still pull; at least until they start to get tired.


  • since reading all your stories I know feel that I am not alone and completely useless with my 2. I was actually considering rehomeing one but know I have read these I feel much more like perceviering, thank you
    K


  • Jessi-great idea! I now have to find a fenced in place to do this :) I HAVE to walk both because this is their exercise & they're crated all day so we need to work off all that energy albeit if we have to fight our way through it! :eek:


  • jys1011 - I hear ya on needing to work off the energy! another great way to exercise is training, believe it or not. Making the dog(s) really work and think on their own, I find, is just as tiring (if not more so) than a good walk. If you can incorporate some training into your walk - even better!

    If you don't have a fenced area to practice, you can always do this inside the house. (it's not nearly as distracting as outside is, but it's a good first step)


  • @jessi76:

    jys1011 - I hear ya on needing to work off the energy! another great way to exercise is training, believe it or not. Making the dog(s) really work and think on their own, I find, is just as tiring (if not more so) than a good walk. If you can incorporate some training into your walk - even better!

    If you don't have a fenced area to practice, you can always do this inside the house. (it's not nearly as distracting as outside is, but it's a good first step)

    That is a really good point, training can be exhausting ;) and you get a better behaved dog after all that work!

    Another way to use the technique that Jessi76 mentioned is to use a 20 foot long line, if you don't have access to a fenced area. Same concept, except you have a safety line on the dog if they decide to leave.


  • These are very good ideas. My girl pulls hard the entire time we're walking except for when she finds something interesting to smell and then it's an immediate stop. And sometimes when I try to keep going she defiantly looks at me and refuses to budge. We walk A LOT so it would be very nice if it wasn't such a fight every time.


  • I can do training…I didn't know this tired them out. No wonder Topaz gets stressed out after a training session :)

    C3PO is more resilient he also listens better & is more focused. Topaz barely responds to her name she's a lot tougher. We STILL haven't mastered sit UUGHH..


  • I seem to have the very same issues, but with my 2 pups ages 2&3 the female pulls ahead, all over the place, the male stops and will not walk in certain areas, not sure whats there, but he will not go over it, only around the spot! I am exhausted! I walk them both only because I have to with my schedule. I am working with a trainer but not doing very well just now, as the death of a close friend has stopped my training till cataloging her items and selling them is done! Glad to hear there are ways to get them to listen to me, even if I have to use FOOD. ARGH!
    Carole


  • Carol hang in there! I just go mine too & they are the same ages as yours what a coincidence. Topaz is 2 and C3PO is 3. Admittingly we also need to work on the training part. Sometimes it's just too easy to get the walk over with & come home & forget the rest. I promise by X-mas WE WILL GET THIS :)


  • PS-by the way so sorry about your friend. Prayers & thoughts are with you.


  • @Quercus:

    I have found that even the most well behaved when walking by herself dog, can turn into a nightmare when walking with a friend. It is really difficult to use the "be a tree" method with two, because one pull, you stop, but the other one might not be pulling…IOW there is no cause and effect message because you are dealing with two subjects.

    Exactly. I find 1 is easy to correct, but 2 can be a challenge. I've tried walking both on one side and one on either side. Mixed results. Recently, I've been allowing them a loose lead if they aren't pulling but the second they start, I make them sit then walk them on a short lead. After a few minutes of not needing constant correction, I'll let them have a loose lead again. I don't need them to walk by my side, I just don't want them to pull when they get on a scent or another dog is near. That is why I've been trying keep them on a short lead. I've considered a dog trainer, but I'm not sure if the issue is just "walking 2 at once".


  • Yay! I'm a semi-normal Basenji owner! I've got 2 year-old (Katie Campbell) Basenjis, and one completely understands the walking and "no pull" command, while the other (a headstrong male) is the wonder-twin that likes to activate his power walking skills outside. We have taken him to obedience training and have practiced the stopping, turning, praising, …etc techniques thousands of times. I have a partially torn rotator cuff and a bucket of tears to show for my efforts. We have a yard and the dogs get lots of exercise, but we love to take them on walks. However, here's the question. I am thinking of using the sporn for our "power walker-puller" to minimize the frustration factor. Our breeder wants to show our male dog (the power walker) and I'm wondering if it is o.k. for outside walking and then he practices indoors on his show lead. Any ideas/recommendations/wine recommendations that will help minimize our walking frustrations?


  • @Wrobelzoo:

    Yay! I'm a semi-normal Basenji owner! I've got 2 year-old (Katie Campbell) Basenjis, and one completely understands the walking and "no pull" command, while the other (a headstrong male) is the wonder-twin that likes to activate his power walking skills outside. We have taken him to obedience training and have practiced the stopping, turning, praising, …etc techniques thousands of times. I have a partially torn rotator cuff and a bucket of tears to show for my efforts. We have a yard and the dogs get lots of exercise, but we love to take them on walks. However, here's the question. I am thinking of using the sporn for our "power walker-puller" to minimize the frustration factor. Our breeder wants to show our male dog (the power walker) and I'm wondering if it is o.k. for outside walking and then he practices indoors on his show lead. Any ideas/recommendations/wine recommendations that will help minimize our walking frustrations?

    He will know the difference between how to act in the ring with Katie and how to "act" with you on a walk… you really should have no problem using something like a head halter and then Katie showing him...... IMO, the sporn will create a problem by changing his movement due to the shoulder restrictions and that is bad in the long run and IMO regardless if he is being shown or not.. but again, that is just my take on this type of harness.... Have you tried a head halter? And also remember when you are walking two, typically you have competition between the two on "who" is going to be in the lead...


  • Thanks for the opinion. I will give a head halter a try.

Suggested Topics

  • Walking

    Basenji Training
    21
    0 Votes
    21 Posts
    8k Views
    DebraDownSouthD
    @ryanp said in Walking: @ktiefen1 Hello - would you please share the type of harness that the behaviorist recommended? I have two basenjis and they're hunting instinct for squirrels and cats is taking its toll on my shoulder and back. Thank you! Behaviorists aren't in agreement on much of anything. Gentle Leaders have a lot of fans, but I'm not one of them. I believe in going back to step one and teaching your dogs not to ever pull on the leash. If someone is disabled or for some reason really needs one, that's different. But training your dog is best. If I had to use one, I'd back it with a harness or collar, especially walking 2 dogs, since getting out of one might be easier. Should add some DOGS need harnesses, not collars or head harnesses if they have neck injuries or even some eye issues. And even though I am not a big fan, they can provide more security. This article is from professionals and they prefer harnesses, as well as tell you how to choose: https://activepet.co.uk/dog-harness/ Abstract The effect on intraocular pressure (IOP) from dogs pulling against a collar or a harness was evaluated in 51 eyes of 26 dogs. The force each dog generated while pulling against a collar or a harness was measured. Intraocular pressure measurements were obtained during application of corresponding pressures via collars or harnesses. Intraocular pressure increased significantly from baseline when pressure was applied via a collar but not via a harness. Based on the results of the study, dogs with weak or thin corneas, glaucoma, or conditions for which an increase in IOP could be harmful should wear a harness instead of a collar, especially during exercise or activity.>> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16611932 For harnesses, there are currently a lot of articles about research on harnesses, which work best with the least inhibition to natural movement. This is a great article on it for anyone on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/notes/tierphysiotherapie-brigitte-jost/reflections-on-chest-harnesses/1369929759778331/
  • Walking Kipawa - need your ideas

    Basenji Training
    10
    0 Votes
    10 Posts
    3k Views
    KipawaK
    @DebraDownSouth: I do 2 kinds of walks with my dogs, both do no permit pulling. On most walks, I like to use a longer leash and I allow them to sniff and do whatever… it is what is fun for them. On exercise walks, I make them heel and keep head up. That way they get that sometimes they can meander and sniff, other times it's business. I have never tried it, but I suspect you can teach sniff, then NO SNIFF lol. We do both on our walks, free leash and then heeling. But I would love him to have his head up more during free leash walking.
  • Reluctant to go for walks

    Basenji Training
    6
    0 Votes
    6 Posts
    3k Views
    ComicDom1C
    @SNA: Thank you very much for your comments. I probably have been expecting too much of her. I had a think about what had changed for her to be so obstinate, and I realised that I had been going without my kids. Good for me as it's less work, but my four year old, I realised, was excellent at getting her going again when she stopped, simply by walking ahead, and, if needed, calling her name. Taking my four year old son also means taking my 20 month old daughter in the sling, but at least we can do our 20-30 minute walk around the block. Now I just have to think of a way of convincing my once enthusiastic son who now complains of being tired and who doesn't want to go, of coming on the walk every day! LOL at carrying Dallas, I have to do that with Jessie nearly every time at the end too! Does your puppy have a favorite toy? If so put it in your back pocket and then put the leash on your pet and see how that works. Just make sure your pet cannot get it by jumping. In fact you can make a game of it by playing in your home with the toy and the dog for a about 5 mins before you walk. If your dog likes squeekie toys then you can also buy a replacement squeekie and keep it in your pocket. When you are walking and want the dogs attention you can squeek it inside your pocket. We use Martingale Collar's. Our Basenji seems to tolerate this style well. I also have noticed that leash control is very important when walking my Basenji. For that purpose I use a regular type 6 foot lead that I can wrap around my hand when I wish to take more control of my dog. I also have a very short lead ( about 2 feet or maybe less) that I use when I want the dog to concentrate on walking next to me. After my dog gets his business done, we are all about a constant pace walking. My perception is that if we are out for a walk to exercise him that we should concentrate on that aspect. I also have a 20 foot lead that I do use when we go on a leisure type walk. On that type of walk, I usually allow him to sniff and explore but I keep moving. He might run ahead slightly but then he will stop and wait and then do it again. The only time I use a flexie type or retractable leash is when I am going to let him have the room to run in a circle. Of course like any dog, the more rope or leash you give them the more they will take advantage of. My puppy does not walk perfectly, but what he does is pretty tolerable. After he does his business and we get our first 1 1/2 miles in, he settles down and gets the next 1 1/2 mile in quite nicely. Of course we did not start at that distance but we did start with at least a 1 to 1 1/2 miles when he was a little over 8 weeks old. After the walk, we worked on sit, stay, come, and lay down for about 10 to 15 mins. I always treated him with a couple of cheerio's or something similar directly after the walk. Actually he refused to drink any water until he got his cheerios. Hope this helps, Jason
  • First time 'off leash'

    Basenji Training
    28
    0 Votes
    28 Posts
    11k Views
    lvossL
    What is a "training leash"? Is it a long line? Long lines are great for teaching loose lead walking and working on recalls. Many people seem to think that walking a dog off leash is a good thing, when in reality it is in most places breaking the law. There are some places that you can walk your dog off leash without being in violation of the law but in many places there are not many safe places that you can walk your dog off leash. As Janneke said, a real benefit to working on a long line on recall is that if your pup ever does get out then you have a tool to get him back. Name response, coming to his name with various distractions and in various places could very well save his life some day. You can play the come game in the house having people in different rooms call his name and give a treat if he comes. You can work on a long line outside calling him between two people. Only treat if he comes when called not if he is just running back and forth between you. As for him listening to you, are you taking him to training classes? What is your role in training him? The more you work him, and the more consistently you work him, the more he will listen to you. You can start really by just taking a handful of one of his meals and just ask for some basics before giving him the main meal. Sit, down, stand, I practice targeting, what ever you may be working on until you have used your handful then when you are done ask for a sit and then you can give his bowl.
  • Help!!! Mishka cant walk with collar on…

    Basenji Training
    10
    0 Votes
    10 Posts
    3k Views
    tanzaT
    @JazzysMom: I am not a "show people" as I've never been in the ring, and only have the one dog that actually finished her championship, but I keep collars on my dogs 24/7. I used the rolled leather collars, and they don't leave any marks on the neck at all – necks are nice and smooth. Well, really they do leave marks… but they are pretty little.... I always don't leave collars on in the house for a number of reasons... (this is after they get used to them of course)... 1. I am always afraid that they will get a mouth caught in them when playing... and 2. they will/could get hung up on something... however that said, mine are not crated, as we have a doggy room for them.. and they have a doggy door to a secure fenced yard.
  • Pee time/walk time..how do i train

    Basenji Training
    25
    0 Votes
    25 Posts
    9k Views
    luzmery928L
    great news. I know for myself the concret hurts my knees but my concern was Champs. Great the running will continue.