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Aggressive Behavior

Behavioral Issues
  • Behavior or change in behavior can be a sign of Thyroid problems. It is not a "cure all", but a full thyroid panel can determine if that might be the sourse of the problem. If they are not feeling well, then that obviously can change their behavior.

    And have you talked to your girls breeder about her behavior?

  • Exactly Pat. Kathy Diamond Davis, writer and trainer, had a dog who was very aggressive. Fought over thyroid meds because she was only borderline, found a new vet, put her on it and got a new dog. It isn't usually that dramatic but sometimes it can make the difference.

  • tanza how much does a thyroid panel useually coast?!

  • Cost of thyroid panel depends on your vet. I had one done on my first basenji and it was $50 about 15 years ago.

    One thing (actually two things) I've noticed about basenjis is 1. they don't like people crowding around them (this seems to be a big issue for mine) and 2. they don't like strangers putting their hand out to pet the top of their heads. I always tell visitors (new or old) to ignore the dog until everyone is settled down and I insist any children first hold out their hands so the dog can give it the smell test (I tell the kids the dog needs to smell if they have good or bad hands) and that petting should be under the chin until the dog says its okay to touch elsewhere. The kids seem to learn better than adults - more than once I've heard the neighborhood kids tell their friends the rules as we're coming up to them.

  • the only thing is i have only seen him aggressive towards dobermans, american native huskys, and some labs. and ( always) towards pit bulls, & bull dogs!. i understand the doberman because he got attacket by one in the park!, but i stoped it before it got bad!.but kids and other people i haven't had any problem with!, but idid noteist that they dont like big crowds around them!.

  • @davcoz:

    there are some people that he just does not like.

    These people tend to be the type that make my wife and I uneasy.

    Any ideas about this?

    **If these folks make you and your wife uneasy. Then why wouldn't you expect the same reaction from your B?

    He's lettin everybody know what he's feelin and your not sayin!

    :rolleyes:**

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  • Aggressive issues

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    BigVB
    I don't want to sound personnel but if you are in control why does he keep showing aggression to other intact dogs. By taking him away from the other dog is not teaching him not to be aggressive . He may see you as boss but he wants to be second in charge and see,s all other intact dogs as a threat to his position. Don't be to proud to use a muzzle , and as I said take out to mix with intact dogs . As he can't hurt them and will soon relize,s this you need to stand up and let him know your displeasure using voice and physical presence and a small water pistol as he will hate being squirted. You should find the water pistol works a treat. I would do this every few days until his stops the aggressive behaviour , then I would try without the muzzle but always keep the water pistol with you and let him see it as he will remember what happens when he acts up. This is a method I have used to help mates control their pig dogs . I am by far an expert and are always prepared to Liston to others thoughts as this is how I learn.
  • Poopy behaviors

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    TimesthemythT
    This is an interesting thread. Any afghan owners notice this in their dogs as well? When Beo was younger, back when I was using the crate with him, when he would have a 'poop' accident he would take a blanket and use his nose to encircle said accident, didn't do the same thing with pee accidents….I don't know if it's the same thing or not, honestly I think he just wanted it as far away from him as possible. He still does this mounding behavior with like bones and the like; he'll use his nose and push a blanket or something on top of it, and then further us his nose to bunch it up into a relatively good looking circle shape. He won't have anything to do with dog feces now though ....he prefers to go in the bushiest/covered area he can find, and then wants absolutely nothing to do with it afterwards (I have to literally drag him through public areas where there's a lot of dog poop lying around).... It is kind of funny to see his "wide-eyed, EW! ICK!" reaction when he accidentally steps in some. Seems like it's more common for basenjis to half halfheartedly attempt to bury it, as opposed to take the time to cover it up with their noses?
  • Male Basenji aggressive behavior towards owners

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    jessi76J
    @sharronhurlbut: Crating a dog when your at work and then when you sleep is way too much. I am not saying this is the case…but imo, if your home, have the dog with you. I agree… mostly. a dog should be with it's family but, young pups who do not yet know the rules of the house, should be crated IMO, mostly for their own safety. You can't very well supervise a pup when you're sleeping. however, I do think there is a middle ground to it... I crated my dog at night until he was about 7mths old, and 100% reliable in the house (no accidents). I always kept the crate right next to the bed though. with the exception of night hours, our dog was never crated for longer than 4 hrs at a time. our goal was always to achieve no need for the crate.. which we reached when he was around 2 yrs old. I think a crate is a wonderful TOOL, but it's just that, a tool, not a way of life. We still have one of our crates set up, and occasionally our dog will choose to use it, but the door is never shut.
  • Food aggression

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    QuercusQ
    @JazzysMom: Let me ask you this, Pat {and all}….. I've always fed my dogs separately, esp. since Keoki came into the picture because he will scarf his food and run to see if he can get what the others have. I don't crate them, but they are fed in separate rooms which puts them about ten feet away from one another. Keoki has learned NOT to hover over the other dogs, but he does kind of watch and wait for either of them to finish and then he runs over to lick their bowls. I don't have a problem with that, as they all run from bowl to bowl at the end of the meals, licking whatever {icky} they can find there. It's funny because they all get the same food. Lately, in the mornings only, Jazz won't eat UNTIL Keoki finishes and and then she will growl and ruuuuun for her bowl. So, the last few days I have put her bowl near his {as an experiment}-- w/in maybe 2 feet -- and she will immediately eat while he does. He eats faster, and it's almost as if she slows down when she knows he's finished. She picks up one piece of food at a time to carefully chew it, with the occasional quiet growl to remind him that it is hers. What is up with that? Honestly…sounds like a fight in the making to me. Eating faster is the first level of resource (in this case food) guarding. She may be eating slower for any number of reasons...the first one I thought of was a calming signal to him? I doubt she is trying to tease him...but she may be trying to make a point...mine, calm down, mine, calm down... These kind of things tend to escalate, so IMO, I wouldn't even experiment with it. Why not feed them separately, like with doors in between? It has got to be less stressful for the dogs if they don't have to worry if the other dog is going to bully them for their food...or on the other hand, if they can bully the other dog.
  • Leash aggression??

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    basenjibratzB
    @Quercus: That sounds ideal! I do love the head collars…the ONLY drawback is so many dogs have fits when they wear them. But the control is awesome, particularly for reactive dogs. Glad it is working for you! Oh yes, Talker had a fit when he was younger and I tried the collar. I gave up because I felt so bad for him. I don't know what changed this time–whether I was calmer or he mellowed out or what, but he accepted the halti this time around and I'm loving it. There were so many times that he would be so anxious to be out walking that getting him to stop pulling was tiresome and the walks were not enjoyable. We were constantly stopping and starting and stopping and starting to re-adjust ourselves. Now, we just walk. Loving the halti!:)
  • Rude Behavior?

    Behavioral Issues
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    jessi76J
    @jys1011: How should you allow dogs to "meet"?? Neutral territory or in a home?? Should you use a gate in between first? Or just on leash?? I agree neutral territory is best - not in one or the other's home. if you must - do it outside. as for a meet & greet routine, I allow "first name, last name" first name = head or nose sniff. last name = toosh sniff. I let my dog meet & greet on leash, so I can correct any bad behavior. if all goes well, I let them play in a safe area (fenced or in house) and let them sort things out - supervised of course, incase a serious fight breaks out - but that hasn't happened (yet… knocks on wood).