@Saving thank you very much for the suggestions!
A diagnosed biter
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Sorry I have to disagree with you guys on this one. I don't think to keep this dog unsocialized is a good thing it will make him more aggreesive not to see other people. As I said-a behaviourist should be consulted not a trainer. A trainer will try to train the behaviour out of the dog. A behaviourist will try to find out what the problem is and address the problem.
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So all of you want to protect a dog who has bitten on previous occasions by not socializing him?? Sorry, doesn't make sense to me-as I said this was in MY opinion, without seeing the dog, and I DID say he should see a behaviourist-not a trainer-two different people. A trainer will correct the behaviour-a behaviourist will figure out what the behaviour is caused from and figure out a way to alleviate the root of the problem.
In my experience, this problem isn't about socialization. I have a dog like this…she was very well socialized as a puppy, she is very well bred, she has a temperament problem...it happens. About 90% of the people she meets she is great with...it is the 10% that scares me...and I can't predict when it will happen. Usually she will bite when she feels cornered, or in danger. She has improved with training...but I still don't trust her when meeting new people, I doubt I ever will.
I don't disagree with your assertion that these type of dogs can improve with a good behaviorist, and management and training plan...that is absolutely true. But it is my feeling that these dogs will never be "fixed"..there will always be the possibility that they will use their mouths again.
Dogs like this usually blossom with experienced trainers, or people that totally commit to become aggression experts. They aren't suitable pets for your average person who just wants a nice dog. As you know, there are no quick fixes for this type of situation, it is a lifelong commitment from the owner...and left with no intervention it only gets worse.
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Absolutely true, Andrea! I guess this is what I am getting at also. To not do anything would not be right either. If you truly want to manage this dog it is a commitment and it will never be a pet. But this can be a managed dog. But I still feel to not socialize this dog and to keep this dog "hidden" would not help the situation.
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You all have some very good advice. I have watched Ceaser and agree and disagree with his methods, but they always seem to work out nicely on TV.
TuckerVA-please don't take this the wrong way, but if he is biting all these people, why is he exposed to so many? I think every interaction with a person should be very controlled and so that he feel calm and comfortable. If people are over and you can not keep him close to you and away from others then he should be put up where he feels safe. I agree that he feel stresses when approached and bites as a reaction that has worked in the past. Only allowing him to approach people on his terms would be the best way to start until he feels comfortable. I think it will take a very long time to correct this behavior and he should be kept where he feels safe.As far as BRAT or any other rescue org, they can only deal with what they are told and what they personally experience.
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Absolutely...and I never intended to imply that the dog should be hidden. But there are some situations with my girl when she is put in a crate in a room with a locked door...for instance when my son (3) has friends over. I can't take the risk that she will bite, and she very well might, in this situation. Or when we have 20+ people and their dogs over for Christmas...most of our dogs go to a spare room during this time. It is too much for them.
But, I digress. Ivy can go for walks anywhere, she can go to training classes, she goes to the vet and the kennel and does just fine....people can visit our house and meet her (if they want to)...but these are all things that I manage very carefully, I can't take my attention off of her. And I don't allow strangers to reach for her...period. -
Too true Andrea-I have to manage Shadow the same way most of the time he is fine, but there are times when he gets over stimulated or someone comes in (usually men) and he must be removed from the situation.
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TuckerVA-please don't take this the wrong way, but if he is biting all these people, why is he exposed to so many? I think every interaction with a person should be very controlled and so that he feel calm and comfortable. If people are over and you can not keep him close to you and away from others then he should be put up where he feels safe. I agree that he feel stresses when approached and bites as a reaction that has worked in the past. Only allowing him to approach people on his terms would be the best way to start until he feels comfortable. I think it will take a very long time to correct this behavior and he should be kept where he feels safe.
Don't worry, it's all good, I know everyone is simply here to help… As for exposing him to so many situations - you might want to read this thread more carefully and my other thread, referenced in a previous post in THIS thread, about each individual situation. But in summary, he has only bitten about 3-4 people in a year while he was being managed by me. He bit me the first day I had him because I took something away from him he had stolen and this was all prior to me 'knowing' my dog. He's bitten a few friends who treated him like any other dog, most happened in the first month, again, before I truly knew my dog. I think any person, B experienced or not, would chaulk up a couple bites the first couple of days to stress involved with relocation, new environment, strange people and strange situations... My dog walker was briefed on his behavior when I interviewed her. Under her care, he bit two people. I had a sit down with her to reiterate what she needs to do and what I am liable for should she fail. And I wasn't all that kind with her to the point she quit on me and I had to beg to get her back. At least 2-3 times, I wasn't even around. My previous roommate brought a child into our home unbeknownst to me, the child messed with the dog and got bit. I left him with my parents for an HOUR and during that hour, my stepbrother showed up (again, I didn't know he was coming) and when he left, he tried to push Tucker back into the house as Tucker tried to escape, he pushed Tucker back. Finally, the most recent was after Tucker has exhibited a lot of improvement. He was introduced to a stranger on the street VERY slowly (maybe over a 20 minute period of chatting) and initially he allowed this stranger to pet him. It was the second time she reached for him, offering her hand first, that he bit her. So I HAVE NOT exposed Tucker to 11 situations in which he was prone to bite. Simply stated, I am can only rely on my walker to do as I have asked her to (no contact with human or dog, which she now has drilled into her head). When I am away from home, I can only hope that noone will unexpectedly arrive and if they do, that the people I left him with will do as I have asked them to. ALL of my friends are new aware of Tucker's behavior and ALL of them have an amicable relationship with him.
As far as BRAT or any other rescue org, they can only deal with what they are told and what they personally experience.
Understood, but the question was posed to me, I only answered based on what I knew.
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Most of the sbiting incidents sound situational. Each is an individual situation and with too much stimulation. EG. New people, new environment, child could have been screeching which could have irritated the dog, new hands on him (stepbrother pushing him back and stimulated from having step brother in house) stranger reaching for dog a second time. Sometimes dogs have reached their point in the stimulation world very quickly and need to recoup. Just a thought too keep in mind when new things happen or things happen too quickly for Tucker.
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It doesn't really matter who or why in this situation. You have to take steps, whatever they are, from keeping him from biting anybody else, and practicing the behavior (emotion) that leads up to the biting.
Again, if a behaviorist is out of financial reach, I would recommend The Culture Clash, by Jean Donaldson; and Click to Calm, by Emma Parsons. Both are available on Amazon.com or dogwise.com
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It doesn't really matter who or why in this situation. You have to take steps, whatever they are, from keeping him from biting anybody else, and practicing the behavior (emotion) that leads up to the biting.
Again, if a behaviorist is out of financial reach, I would recommend The Culture Clash, by Jean Donaldson; and Click to Calm, by Emma Parsons. Both are available on Amazon.com or dogwise.com
I agree, you have taken the steps to manage the situation… which is a good thing.
I agree also with the more you learn the better you can continue to mange the situation
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I wanted to tell you how I admire your commitment to this boy.
You might always have to run interference for him, but your caring, well it could work.
I would again suggest you get a pro in to eval him.
I know you want him to be the very best dog he can be…with your care, he will be.
Oh, with my biting basenji, I used baby gates.
New folks who came in, or with kids, the basenji was behind the babygate.
He could see the folks, they could greet him, even treat him, but he knew he was safe and they were safe.
It was a small step that worked for us. -
I have baby gates.
Typically, when I have company I pick him up and hold him until the person or the people are inside and settled. I use the gate for pizza deliveries or for company that will only chat at the door. There is a problem with the bars, though. He's more aggressive when behind them so I've stopped using that as a method of isolation while people are over. If anyone comes near the gate, he growls at them and is especially menacing if anyone leans over the gate or reaches over the gate. He even growls at me when I reach over. He certainly doesn't like to be trapped in a corner! The gates, unfortunately, isolate the kitchen, which is a high traffic area - especially when friends are over. He stays on the balcony during the days, so if I have company and am worried about his actions, I just put him out there and put the blockade thingy in the doggie door. -
Good inhome management!
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when I have company I pick him up and hold him until the person or the people are inside and settled. I use the gate for pizza deliveries or for company that will only chat at the door.
I do the same thing…those of us who have "these"
kind of dogs know that this is absolutely the way to manage. It sux but it's gotta be this way. I think you're on the right track with your little B...so keep it up! 
With time you'll get to know Tucker a little better each day & it will be easier to manage. We'll get there! Feel free to PM me with any questions since I too have had to get "creative" with my little girl I luv her to death & I can't ever imagine parting ways with her.But, I digress. Ivy can go for walks anywhere, she can go to training classes, she goes to the vet and the kennel and does just fine….people can visit our house and meet her (if they want to)...but these are all things that I manage very carefully, I can't take my attention off of her. And I don't allow strangers to reach for her...period.
Double Ditto Andrea! I'm the same exact way with Topaz. She goes to training 1x a week & she goes for walks every single day. And people come to my house quite often (More so recently since we're selling our house) and there's rules. No touching Topaz…she doesn't care for it & neither do I
Short Story-DH (stands for Dumb Husband) was out back with the dogs & our realtor. He figured the realtor had been around a few time & C3PO just LOVES this guy so he figured he let his gaurd down with TOPAZ :eek: and low & behold the guy "moved" some how & startled her...she just grazed him but got a good chunk of his pants :o I felt like my DH deserved a good SMACK...his response "It was my fault! I know...I know..I dunno what I was thinking!"
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My dog has been a biter from puppy hood, he even bite his breeder & drew blood as a puppy. we never beat him or treated him poorly. we always treat him delicately but firmly (in the rules). He see's him self as an aplha. He is a proud and fearless dog, but as others say, will never just attack someone. Its always something that sets him off like-
Strangers or children who-
Stare him in the eyes
try to reach around his head or grab his tail
wake him suddenly from a sound sleep. If you wake him softly - no problem
Spook/startle him when he's awake- peek a boo is not a good game for him.We had done all the de-alpha-ing him things, it helped, but I know he still has it in him.
He is 7 and we now just eliminate situations that provoke him to bite and he gets punished at any sign of aggression. He gets a big "NO" a time out and lost freedom privilages. Then he has to earn them back. Also we try to punish him without anger as he returns it two fold.
WE ALWAYS CRATE THEM IF ANY STRANGER/CHILD COMES OVER. Unfamiliar situations is when trouble can happen. I expect the unexpected and get good results.
we have just about eliminated his biting, by controlling the situations. But I will never trust him because I know he has it in him. He gets no chances, I dont want to loose him, get sued or have to put him down.
good things basenji's do not have pitbull sized jaws or there would be a lot less basenji's around
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I have a few like this as well, as JYS will tell you. You learn to recognize the types of people that these tempermental B's will have problems with and your guard goes up.
It's the things we all do or don't do to keep these wonderful little creatures we love.
Special dogs, special people.:D
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oh, before I came here I tried the Ceaser method, it worked to some point, but it really broke his spirit. He became depressed mopy & grumpy, sometimes growling etc.
I went back to his regular give & take positive training and he is a very became a very content & happy dog.
Basenji's just should not be "broken" They need a ton of love, they thrive on it and being with their family. By keeping them out of situations, coupled with positive reward training you can get them to do just about anything. The key is you controlling their world, uncompromised and consistantly.
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I know certian dogs my dog will do fine with-
Female Hounds & labs are fine for him
any long haired small or big dog we wants to rip apart or pull the fur out of.
Also we will not tolerate any unbehaved dog that charges up to him without freezing side by side for the male / female inspection thing. He shows them to mind their manners
we had this big black bear plush foot stool, and he would not tolerate it standing upright. He would contantly flip it over and grab it by the neck. We finally just got rid of it- maybe he was trying to point out it was tacky home decor?
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The key is you controlling their world, uncompromised and consistantly.
Yes Sir!:)
If you don't control theirs, they'll control yours!:D
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I have read in several 'standards' for Basenjis (or articles, I can't remember) that said, and I quote:
"A clear way to tell if a Basenji feels something is a threat or prey is when it circles around the object/person/animal. Usually this happens with animals in packs, but Basenjis do not have to be in a pack to circle around their prey. When they are circling, usually they are determining how to kill the threat or prey, and they will also do this to humans with whom they are unfamiliar."
Source:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basenji (among others)I can't wait to see Tucker circling on of my friends. If they ask what he's doing, I'll simply tell them, "Oh nothing, he's just trying to figure out how to kill you…"
Those of you following this thread, I have another question, since it involved biting... Every morning, after our walk, I put Tuck outside and give him a Kong to occupy him while I leave. I prepare the kong with a load of "Stuff'n" (squeeze cheese whizz liver paste orpeanut butter flavored stuff) that I freeze overnight to keep him occupied for a little bit longer. Now I KNOW that he knows I'm the boss, but sometimes, when I toss the kong and miss his crate, I'll go to get it again and he's protecting it, as in, he acts like he'll bite me if I try to take it away (trust me, I know the signs when it comes to getting bitten myself!) for repositioning. (I feel that I need to explain this silly portion...if I leave the kong on the deck, he'll eventually roll it off the edge and then I have to pull a Jeff Corwin in the massive bushes below to get it back!) This happened just this morning and it only happens every so often, like maybe once a month. Because it's so infrequent, it always shocks me and my instant result is fear, simply stated, of getting bitten. So I have to step back and call him to me, pet him a bit, and then reach for the kong. I've read and seen vids that this means he DOESN'T acknowledge me as the 'pack leader'. I should be able to take it away from him at any time. Is this correct? Am I suffering from an illusion that I am the 'pack leader' when I really am not? It's this way with most everything he steals. I simply call him off, then pick it up. I never try to just take it away as a 'pack leader' should be able to. But he ALWAYS backs off when I verbally tell him to, dropping whatever it is, even if it's yummy people food.
I assume that I am 'managing' the situation correctly, but if I believe everthing I read and see, I'm still NOT the 'pack leader'. Is this the case? If so, should I work with him more on this, randomly taking those types of things away? When it comes to socks, thongs, tissue and toys, the 'take away' isn't a problem (I can just take it from him). Food and a tasty kong is another story.
