Biting

Behavioral Issues
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  • P

    My first thought was pain of some sort - teeth, touch sensitivity, structural damage but asd your vet has checked her that doesn't seem to be. Just remember that Basenjis can be very stoical when purely teted for pain by a vet. I had a Basenji with a concealed tooth abscess which the vet didn't discover for a while because my dog showed no reaction when he felt the teeth and jaw.

    Is she aggressive to you at any other times than when you go to leash her? Are you putting the leash on inside her kennel? Is she the same if you put it on outside her kennel? It could have been a bad experience with a leash. Look carefully at the times when she does let you do it. You say that after you've left her in the kennel she's ok next time and then repeats the cycle. It's unlikely that it is because she's sussed that you aren't going to take her out if she bites as she reverts unless she is slow at learning.

    I totally agree with Agilebasenji and I think that the key is patience and perseverance.

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  • W

    Thanks for all of the suggestions. I think in the long run, a little work and rewards will help to resolve the issue. I will update her progress.

    Wayne

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  • W

    Patty,

    This basenji girl normally lets you touch her all over. She is a little sensitve about her feet and will mouth you if you touch them, but she will not usually bite. She allows us to grab her tongue, teeth, ears, tail and almost every part of her. The only time she gets at all agressive is with the leash and when she is woken up on the couch. I think there must be some previous issue with the leash, or maybe it is related to the rash on her chest.

    Wayne

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  • nobarkusN

    Try a hemp collar from earth Dog. That's what I use since nylon was irritating.

    http://www.earthdog.com/hemp-products;jsessionid=hfc5MjPT78y61hYgJ5CLQhhYjQLCLp1K9q0L4TnTl46h54s0vrGyW2FQgDh1Q0dNY2pLqHJkQp33dy9nTfh9zJzMhghNh6nFvw5V5rD2hp1chQvr9X1ZkdCJB4TC5Q4m!1215775562

    Buddy, Paolo and Dan

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  • P

    Yes,wsurci, I think you're right, as all else is well. Back to the patience and perseverance and I do hope the issue will soon beresolved. Please keep us updated.

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  • BarklessdogB

    Maybe use the "Car Ride" word to go somewhere fun?

    This overshadows anything in our dogs heads.

    Let her think of the leash as only a positive thing.

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  • Patty MP

    Wayne, maybe it's the approach? One of mine won't bite, but shies away and runs off when I try to put her harness on her. I think it is also something in her mind.

    The consistent approach that has worked for mine is: I sit on the floor, call her, and say, "treats!" (armed with some, of course :)). I ask her to sit, praise her, and then when I put the harness over her head, I don't reach over her head, I place it below her mouth and gently put it over her face. Again praising, coaxing, gentle voice, and a treat. When I remove it, it's the same thing.

    Good luck! Let us know?

    "I learned long ago, never to wrestle with a pig. You get dirty, and besides, the pig likes it."

    ~George Bernard Shaw

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  • W

    Thanks,
    We have temporarily gone back to the slip on nylon leash. She actually runs to you when it is time to go for the walk, but will not come close when she sees the harness. We will try to gain her trust again so that we can minimize the rash that she gets from the slip on.

    Wayne

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  • D

    I had a new young rescue-about 8 mos. old who was fine when I took him out of the crate which was in the car. He was unable to see the leash and I was able to get it on his collar just fine. I took him to the fenced-in backyard, unleashed him, and let him run around with the other rescues. When I went to get him, I was holding the leash and trying to get him to come to me. He was able to see the leash and when I approached him and tried to put the leash on him, he bit my finger. I was unable to get him in the house and had to leave him outside while I did a transport for two rescues. Thankfully, my roommate was home to keep an eye on him. I found out that he had a fear of leashes, along with other things and also socialization problems. It really bothered him if he saw a leash in the air which would be above him. It seemed to be okay if I could put it on below him. I had to work with him for months to have him accept leashes. Sometimes he will still act hesitant about them. From time to time I will have him and the other Bs play with the leashes and make a game out of it. I had to do the same thing with a broom.

    I obtained him from an OH Amish breeder/dealer and I can only imagine what the living conditions were like. This man was not the original breeder.

    I had his eyes CERF'd and it was not an eye problem. I thought that might be the problem since the leash was coming from above.

    Jennifer

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  • DebraDownSouthD

    Well I was going to suggest she could have a neck injury (disk) but if she runs to the slip on, then that's not it. Can you use BOTH the slip on the put on harness?

    Debra

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  • tanzaT

    @wsuraci:

    Thanks,
    We have temporarily gone back to the slip on nylon leash. She actually runs to you when it is time to go for the walk, but will not come close when she sees the harness. We will try to gain her trust again so that we can minimize the rash that she gets from the slip on.

    Depending on the fit of the harness, it can be painful to their shoulder movement. I do not recommend the use of a harness to any of my puppy buyers. I have seen many times it alter the front assembly movement, especially if that pup/dog is not built correctly to begin with…

    Pat Fragassi

    Tanza Basenjis

    www.tanzabasenjis.net

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  • W

    It may be that the harness irrates her in some way. She runs when she sees the harness.

    Wayne

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  • MacPackM

    I use a harness for Topper, as a collar triggers his chronic cough. We use the 'step in' harness, which they step into and then has one clip on the shoulders. No wrestling over head, or manipulating legs or shoulders, I like it and it does not seem to interfere with his movements.

    But if she fears the harness, I would go with the collar, get leather or hemp if the nylon bother's her.

    Anne in Tampa

    Chipley, Missy & Lucky

    Topper, Nicky & Eddie in the clouds

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  • lvossL

    You can also get collars that are fleece lined. All Hounds Apparel has some nice ones that are wide and fleece lined.

    http://www.allhoundsapparel.com

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  • W

    We have two different types of harnesses. Both are the walk in type. One is leather and one is nylon, but lined with fleece. She seemed to not mind the fleece one as much, but wherever the fleece touched her fur, the fur would vanish like you shaved it. The harness was adjustable and we tried loose and tight, but the fur still came off. That is when we went to the leather one. Now she will not wear any of them. We have a leather collar on her now. It still irritates her neck, so we remove it in the house. We just need to be careful with the front door. Thankfully she has not demonstrated any escaping or bolting actions yet.

    Wayne

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  • DebraDownSouthD

    Not sure, have honestly never USED one.. but would head harness help avoid the damaged neck area? And where is the damage? Using a collar up behind the ears should avoid most problems. Good luck.

    Debra

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  • lvossL

    Have you considered getting a referral to a dermatologist? Since the fur loss is so dramatic, maybe they are causing her discomfort which is why she doesn't want to wear them.

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  • W

    We have been to a dermotologist. She was given a topical cream and suggested that we use a leather product.

    Wayne

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  • lvossL

    Have you let them know that she is seems to still be experiencing issues?

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  • SeattleMaxS

    Hope this improves…

    But good for you for caring so much and trying to figure this out!

    How about a photo?

    http://basenji-shaun.com

    Basenji Shaun in Seattle

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    Hi - a few thoughts in case they are helpful, although ours doesn't bite. For biting: Figure out the reasons for biting first. if it is around toys/possessiveness - we gave him the toy on his bed and let him be there gnawing on his own. Then walked close by (not too close) and threw him something yummier in his view (eg a small piece of sausage that he can eat quickly) and walk away. Do this at random (though not too often) and have different people in your family do it. Soon she will associate your coming close to her and her favorite toy as something good. Progressively get closer (ie throw the sausage from closer), and then squat down, then touch on head briefly, then hand sausage to her, then move hand towards toy but don't touch it. By this time she will anticipate your coming to her when she has a toy as "yay, something more tasty coming my way". Evenutally, you should pick up the toy/bone hand her the sausage then hand back the toy/bone. Pretty soon she'll let you pick up her toy/bone without biting or thinking you are going to take it away. The key is to progress slowly in terms of distance etc, and mix up the treats (sausage, cheese, chicken). -if she does bite someone, then immediately isolate her in a basenji-proof room where she cant destroy things. And when letting her out, ask her to sit and be calm for a few seconds first so that she's not hysterical and she learns to watch and listen to you. There may be something else that one does for biting, so maybe others or a trainer would have good ideas. For pulling on walks, 2 things worked for us: A gentle leader - suggested by our trainer. This means she can't control her head (if they pull forward their head moves to the side like a horses halter) and so she won't be able to forge ahead. It will give your arm/shoulder immediate relief while you work on the rest. In the yard and on walks start rewarding with small treats every time she looks back at you/checks on you. At first she'll do it by chance, or if she is checking to see what you are doing, and sometimes it's a side glance. As soon as she does it - give big verbal praise and get her to come to you and give her a treat and lots of pets. She will begin to do this more often. initially treat every time she looks at you, and once she is good at it, then randomly. On walks you'll find her looking back and coming back to you more often, and as a corollary less pulling, which is a relief. We usually keep the leash in one hand and a handful of small, soft treats in the other - so you don't run out and have to keep going into your pocket to get treats. So, she'll come and nose your hand and you can pet some times, treat sometimes, etc. The one thing is to progress slowly, praise the right behavior and don't get impatient (count to 10, stop training or go do something else for a bit till you feel ready to try again). When doing the praise really have an excited voice and go overboard even! Our basenji really loves being praised. It takes more time perhaps than other methods, but it's long lasting because they see these behaviors as rewarding so you don't have to get into a battle of wills. And once they get the idea, they'll improve rapidly, even over one walk. Good luck!
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