And as one of the posts advises:
"Stay patient. A lot of inexperienced people are buying puppies they are ill prepared for, from greeders who do not take their basenjis back.
I suspect in the next 6-8 months we might see/learn of an influx of basenjis needing homes."
Here's a rather long but thorough article on why it is a challenge to find available B. puppies. Just as importantly, on being aware of unethical/irresponsible breeders taking advantage of a buyer's frustration or desperation.
Good luck and also, what Elbrant wrote.
This is a global post because myself, and most other basenji breeders I know, are receiving exponentially more inquires for puppies than ever before.
The window to bring a puppy home is relatively small for basenjis as most puppies go home between February and April each year. We all understand that lots of people are home right now and the prospect of bringing a puppy home is joyful and exciting, and well timed since everyone is home.
However, keep in mind most basenjis come into heat only once a year, which means puppies are born only once per year. The majority of basenjis have puppies in the fall or early winter (November to January), with pups leaving 8-12 weeks after they’re born, which is February-April usually. Many times, the only way to guarantee a puppy from a responsible breeder is contacting them ahead of time and getting on a wait list, as by the time they’re born, a majority are already reserved. It's never too early to work with a breeder and get on their waiting list!
There are a very small handful that have spring seasons, but many don’t conceive in the spring even if they come into season, and if you’re holding out hope for the 5%, you better already be talking to a breeder, because those puppies are likely already reserved by the time they’re born too.
Sometimes unethical breeders will have puppies long after ethical breeders have placed theirs. When you breed 30+ puppies in one season, it’s not unusual to have left overs...however if you’re excited by the chance of getting a basenji, even from an unethical source, you don’t really love basenjis. Unethical breeders don’t really care about the basenji either, they care about making puppies which equals a profit and they don’t health test as they should either, although they will quickly lie to you and tell you that all the health testing is done! They don’t care about the dogs in their care, why would they care about lying to potential buyers? I’m not saying all unethical breeders can’t “love their dogs” or come off as really nice and sweet people...a mean sales person wouldn’t sell much merchandise, so of course they have got to be nice people who sound perfect...but that’s where education and verification come into play. My grandmother was a wonderful person who loved everyone, but if she decided one day to breed dogs just to produce puppies because she likes making people happy with puppies, she would have been an unethical breeder. Ethical breeding focuses on preserving and bettering the breed for generations to come, it involves temperament selection, structure selection, and health testing to produce the best possible puppies.
The best starting place for finding good and ethical breeders is the national breed club website, the Basenji Club of America (BCOA). The BCOA works very closely with the AKC and OFA to set recommendations for standards and health testing of Basenjis used for breeding. These recommendations ensure genetic issues don’t plague the breed and that puppies are not produced who will be afflicted with genetic disorders and diseases. You can find a breeder directory here, broken up by state: https://www.basenji.org/in…/about-basenjis/breeder-directory
The BCOA also has a breeder liaison, Denise Vertrees, who helps people locate breeders if they're not sure where to start. Not all breeders are listed in the directory as some don’t breed every year, so emailing Denise may give you more results than the directory. Her email is firstname.lastname@example.org
It should be noted that even though breeders may be listed through the BCOA, there are NO set requirements for BCOA breeders or ANY breeders in the USA, only recommendations, so each breeder is different in their standards and practices. EVERY breeder should be vetted thoroughly and all claims should be verified for accuracy as it’s quite easy for a charming sales person to lie to the unsuspecting public. Bottom line, if you don’t feel comfortable with the breeders practices, answers to questions, or communication, don’t buy from them!
Pedigrees can be verified on the Zande pedigree database
and health results can be verified on the OFA website.
Any breeder who will not give you information to research on the pedigree database or OFA’s website is a potential red flag. Reputable breeders often pride themselves on transparency in their breeding practices and will readily share pertinent information with potential buyers.
A basenji puppy from a responsible breeder will usually cost between $1500–$2500 depending on the area and location. Puppy mills and unethical breeders can often run the same amount, so price should never be a deciding factor! One of the biggest myths about getting a puppy is that you don't need to go to a responsible breeder if you just want a pet. Most breeders who participate in dog shows and whose puppies have champions in their pedigrees keep just one or two of the best puppies from a litter for show. All the rest go straight to pet homes. (It's also worth mentioning that the vast majority of "show dogs" are pets on their days off, too. ) Contrary to popular belief, the cost of a responsibly bred puppy isn't due to its fancy pedigree or show potential, but the extensive health-testing, socialization, and care that it and its parents have received.
Although it can seem like you're getting a "bargain" from an irresponsible breeder, a lot of times you're being charged the same--or more!--than you would pay for a responsibly bred puppy. Would you rather pay $1500–$2500 for a puppy whose parents are health-tested for all known genetic diseases and have been selected for their good temperaments? A puppy who is extensively socialized with people and children? Who has received quality nutrition and veterinary care? Or would you rather pay a little less (or sometimes even the same amount) for a puppy who might not have any of these, taking into consideration that doing the health tests yourself, treating serious health conditions, and / or bringing in a trainer to help with behavioral problems can quickly cost you hundreds of additional dollars? A puppy mill or backyard breeder's #1 goal is usually to make money. In contrast, a responsible breeder is lucky to break even on a litter of puppies and sometimes even loses money. Additionally, a responsible breeder will be there to give advice and support for your basenji's entire life. In the long run, it's cheaper, easier, and safer to get a puppy from a responsible breeder.
Make sure any breeder you're considering getting a puppy from does not sell puppies before they are 8–12 weeks old. A puppy separated from its mom and littermates too early can have serious behavioral problems as it grows up. It is crucial that your puppy stay with its mother and littermate for at least 8 weeks so that it learns crucial skills like bite inhibition and appropriate play behavior. A 2011 study comparing adult dogs that were adopted at 4 to 5 weeks of age vs. 8 weeks found that those adopted before 8 weeks had much greater odds of "displaying destructiveness, excessive barking, fearfulness on walks, reactivity to noises, toy possessiveness, food possessiveness and attention-seeking." An irresponsible breeder might try to convince you that the puppy will be fine it it goes to you before 8 weeks, that you need to take it home early so it can bond better with you, but this simply is not backed up by science. In reality, the less time an irresponsible breeder keeps a puppy around, the less they will have to pay in food, vet care, and supplies and the less time they will have to spend taking care of that puppy.
It is also very important to find a breeder who health tests. There are some significant health concerns associated with basenjis, just like with any breed. The BCOA recommends that any basenji being used for breeding be tested for Fanconi syndrome, progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), and autoimmune thyroiditis, have an eye exam from a canine ophthalmologist and an X-ray screening for hip dysplasia.
If you don’t care about health testing, socialization, and the care of the parents...do you really love basenjis? These things help preserve the breed for many generations instead of producing poor health and bad temperaments. Most older breed enthusiasts can tell you of HORRIBLE temperaments that were well known years ago and how the breed as a whole has strived to produce better temperaments or how devastating illness broke the hearts of tons of owners until health testing became available.
So find a breeder you like, that you agree with their ethics and practices, that you can communicate with, and that will be available for the life of your puppy to help guide and answer any questions you may have. Adding a puppy should never be an impulse decision, and adding a purebred puppy should ALWAYS be from an ethical source.
Again, if you do not care about health testing and genetics, you are better off with a mixed breed from a shelter or rescue, than buying from an unethical breeder. Never believe you are “rescuing” from unethical breeders as all they will see is profit and continued demand for their product, which will condemn the breeding dogs left behind when you take your puppy home.
Reputable and ethical basenji rescues include BRAT and Camp Basenji. If wanting to go the adoption route over purchasing route, it’s recommended to have your application on file, and your home visit completed (as required) BEFORE a dog you’re interested in comes available. This will help ensure you’re at the top of the list for potential adopters because your requirements are already completed.
There is a Facebook group for prospective owners to educate themselves on breeders and the buying process, this group includes and extensive list of potential “red flag” breeders who may not fall into the “ethical” breeder criteria. If you want to join the group, search “Basenji puppies get educated” and be sure to answer all the questions.
It should also be noted that Pet Stores are 100% sourced from puppy mills unless required to only sell shelter animals, in which case, you won’t find purebreds readily available. Any pet store who tells you the puppies are sourced from ethical breeders is 100% lying to you, don’t get taken advantage of by a well rehearsed speech.
In conclusion, by all means contact breeders or rescues, but know that ownership can be a lengthy process, and instant gratification generally has a poor ending when it comes to animal ownership. Patience and planning will ensure you and your future basenji are set up for success!
Now stay safe and healthy out there!! "
@adina Thanks so much for this. The breeders we are looking at seem to have all those boxes checked and we found them through AKC. We are hoping this is surely a trusted source...
Alas, AKC lists breeders who have paid to be listed. There is NO vetting. Please apply due diligence in choosing your breeder.
You should spend almost as much time researching the breeder (and the sire and dam) as you have the breed of dog. The breeder can let you know much of the pup's temperament and potential character.
Echoing what Sally (and Liz McCargo) has suggested re: not spaying/neutering, at least at this young age.
There's a very insightful and thoroughly informative booklet by the "Puppy Culture" founder on the subject. It is chockful of the latest scientific/medical/genetic research and also takes into consideration the social "pressure" of neutering/spaying one's pet.
(BF should read a few pages if he prefers facts to oft repeated false tales)
Whether to neuter/spay is an important decision and so is its timing should you decide to have the operation.
... One time many years ago at an indoor show, there was a person that had a "pet" squirrel in a crate... this critter got loose and ran through all 9 indoor rings.... and you could say "no" to your were blue in the face, they wanted that critter... and honestly that was for all breeds, not just Basenjis...
Did the squirrel survive its suicide escapade?!!!?
What owner thought that was a splendid idea to bring a squirrel to a dog show? What fear the critter may have felt the whole time in its crate.
Still... for the imagined chases!
Yes there are other threads referring to this topic and dog behavior, if you wish to research further.
Here is a brief but very thorough booklet discussing the pros and cons of neutering/spaying, more science based than anecdotal.
Good luck with your decision.
Adding my vote for HURTTA
Superb quality and excellent fit for the active dog. Simply a superior product and design.
Try Jeff Bezos' lil' store, warehouse section for a big discount.
(here's a shy girl modeling the Extreme Warmer Parka! Size 14)
Happy to learn you were successful in getting a puppy.
All else sounded like an infomercial. HH is renowned for being a puppy mill and your list of requirements mentions nothing re: the puppy's health, testing, etc.
- May I ask why a basset hound owner is posting on a Basenji forum? (did you just recently joined to write this post?)
- Here's (an updated version of) a valuable old post from Tanza if anyone wishes to ask thorough questions before purchasing a pup:
tanza 8 Jun 2007, 07:56
After a few years in the Basenji community, I finally had the opportunity to meet Stella (of Astarte Basenjis) at last July's Puppy Match at the legendary Carol Webb's house. Stella breeds champions and cares very deeply about the breed and her vocation.
You've struck gold, Monkey!!!!
Here's a link to help decode some of those TLA's, AKC Titles Sorted Alphabetically:
"So the other TLAs that aren't on the AKC list like CRd, PRA -N, PRA- Cr, CLd seem to be disease testing related?"
Yes. CRd means "Carrier" vs. CLd is "Cleared" - usually relating to Fanconi in Basenji, but applies to other genetic diseases. (e.g., breeding a CRd with a CRd just about guarantees an afflicted litter)
PRA - N = "Normal" for that PRA test.
There's a whole TLAs list, though much shorter, for the OFA tests.
Isn't fascinating?!! It's almost like playing roulette!
There's a FB discussion group of Basenji breeders who really get into the actual gene-sequencing of colors if you have the time and interest to explore further.
Waaaay into the weeds, and plenty of TLAs to spare! Here's a sample: " There are Concentration and Intensity genetics that are thought to interact phaeomelanin. And as for E - there are 3 locus that are known and can be tested for E, e2 (cream in Australian Cattle dog) and e3 (cream in Siberian Huskies)"