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  3. The Canine Behavior Series…excellent articles/website!

The Canine Behavior Series…excellent articles/website!

Basenji Training
  • WBLW

    This is a wonderful site to go to for all behavior questions that you may have. A definite bookmark site! Here is the intro for the articles

    Unwanted barking, jumping up on people, pulling on the leash, mouthing and nipping, not coming when called… how many dog owners haven't had to deal with at least a few of these common canine behavior problems? It's never too late to train a dog, or to work on his or her behavior problems. Bad habits can be broken, good habits can be taught, and most importantly, with a little effort and love, you can make sure your dog stays a happy member of your family forever!

    Should the training articles available here or elsewhere not be effective, contact your veterinarian. Veterinarians not specializing in behavior can eliminate medical causes of behavior problems. If no medical cause is found, your veterinarian can refer you to a colleague who specializes in behavior or a local behaviorist.

    http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=SRC&S=1&SourceID=47

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  • BarklessdogB

    Great articles, a lot of good info.

    Thanks

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    Interesting Article

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    eeeefarmE
    That is why when I am asked I always include the caveat that the introduction to the collar (whether with invisible fence or remote training) be done carefully and correctly. It might interest you to know that I tried unsuccessfully to use invisible fence with Perry at the farm before I started using an e-collar, and I was unsuccessful because I was not comfortable with the level of correction…....way too high IMO for a sensitive dog! I have no doubt, given my subsequent experience using the remote collar with him, that he would have been one of those dogs who respected the fence, and the failure was entirely mine because I was reluctant to subject him to a high level correction when he didn't understand "why". With the e-collar, I made sure he understood the collar at a very low level (irritating but certainly not painful), and that he knew that the "consequences" were entirely under his control. I think I would be happier with an invisible fence that varied the level of correction in relation to distance from the fence, but that's another topic. I also would not advocate invisible fence for small dogs where the likelihood of trespass by a larger dog is high, since they are then at risk of being attacked "at home". I think the best use of the fence is as backup to a physical fence, to deter climbing or digging out. My views on remote collars for training are also a bit ambiguous, but I do love it for the ability to enforce an already familiar command at a distance. That is how I use mine, and I make no apology for a fleeting application of pain if it keeps my dog safe and under control. It's a trade off I can live with for the freedom I am able to grant him, and he seems to agree with me.
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    Puppy behavior

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    There are many different ways to train loose leash walking. I like training it in a class with distractions and for my baby puppies that is really where they learn what a leash is. I took my boys to class for the first time this week and the only thing we worked on was loose leash. We started just standing in place and click/treat for loose leash. Then we would like a step and when the puppy followed we click/treat again when the leash is loose. The boys were walking pretty good with me and my husband for most of the class. I also like using a long line for loose leash, it really seems to help them understand that being near me is the behavior I want since they have the choice to go quite a distance from me but are only get a click/treat if they are close enough for me to touch them. Make sure you are using really yummy treats in class, it helps you to compete with the distractions. Many people bring kibble or other so-so treats that the dogs are happy working for at home but can't compete with the excitement of class.
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  • JazzysMomJ

    Just wondering/thinking/probably not acting…

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    An Akita was the first dog we noticed that about. It was only a 10 month old, but it ran right next to Shaye, touching her all the way and looking down at her, and kept turning her to the right - I don't really know whether it was trying to get Shaye back to the place we were sitting or whether it was an aggressive move, but the result was the same. There is a Shepard here in the neighborhood we live in. When the man who walks it passes by us, he has to practically get down and physically hold the dog, because it tries to charge Shaye, ears back, hackles up, barking its head off. I don't know if it's like that with other dogs. At the park, there was a young Shepard who initially started playing with Shaye, but when Shaye went up like she does and came down around the dog's neck area, it lowered to the ground, bared its teeth, growled and scared me to death, I thought I was about to see Shaye get picked up and shaken to death in those jaws. It was not in a playing mood any more. So, I figure better safe than sorry. The man who owns the Akita who was herding Shaye told me Akitas are bred to be guard dogs and are naturally aggressive in initial meetings - so why he had that dog at a public park is beyond me.
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    I have a doggie door and we love it, not to mention my Basenji, Sahara. I also have underground electric fence, so that keeps her in the yard. I leave it open most of the time, but I have had to close it when I didn't want her to go outside. I have not had any trouble with other animals coming, I live just outside the city limits, and my town is small, not many wild animals near me. It has been really warm here in NC so I have not closed it at night, but when cold weather comes I will close it. Sahara goes out by herself when she has to potty during the day, but most of the time I take her out at night on her leash. She does not like the darkness by herself, silly girl. haha!!!! By the way I never use the crate anymore, she is free to go since I got the fencing.