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Walking

Basenji Training

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DebraDownSouth @RyanP
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@ryanp said in Walking:

@ktiefen1 Hello - would you please share the type of harness that the behaviorist recommended? I have two basenjis and they're hunting instinct for squirrels and cats is taking its toll on my shoulder and back. Thank you!

Behaviorists aren't in agreement on much of anything.

Gentle Leaders have a lot of fans, but I'm not one of them. I believe in going back to step one and teaching your dogs not to ever pull on the leash. If someone is disabled or for some reason really needs one, that's different. But training your dog is best. If I had to use one, I'd back it with a harness or collar, especially walking 2 dogs, since getting out of one might be easier.

Should add some DOGS need harnesses, not collars or head harnesses if they have neck injuries or even some eye issues. And even though I am not a big fan, they can provide more security. This article is from professionals and they prefer harnesses, as well as tell you how to choose:

https://activepet.co.uk/dog-harness/

Abstract
The effect on intraocular pressure (IOP) from dogs pulling against a collar or a harness was evaluated in 51 eyes of 26 dogs. The force each dog generated while pulling against a collar or a harness was measured. Intraocular pressure measurements were obtained during application of corresponding pressures via collars or harnesses. Intraocular pressure increased significantly from baseline when pressure was applied via a collar but not via a harness. Based on the results of the study, dogs with weak or thin corneas, glaucoma, or conditions for which an increase in IOP could be harmful should wear a harness instead of a collar, especially during exercise or activity.>>
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16611932

For harnesses, there are currently a lot of articles about research on harnesses, which work best with the least inhibition to natural movement. This is a great article on it for anyone on facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/notes/tierphysiotherapie-brigitte-jost/reflections-on-chest-harnesses/1369929759778331/
Debra
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Walking Basenji

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• • • KMac

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i walk the lab and isis at the same time one on hand and one on the other, the lab seem to have a major drive to sniff out anything and track blindly and of course isis will be doing the same, the b is easier to control cause she lighter but the m1 tank of the lab well.. we've came across little furry friends on our nitely walks i need to stay very focus on my surroundings, one thing the b does if theres someone walking behind us doesnt matter how far , she walk ahead stop and turn to look back, she'll keep doing this repeatedly like she warning me these something there,im sure its instinct on her end to,of course i confirm whats shes doing but yeah those b's dont miss a trick
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• • • Tesla

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My Gossy pulled tremendously for a long time and I tried all kinds of tips from different collars to harnesses – once she started wearing a harness, she slowed down noticeably.
I have the EasyWalk (and measured her exactly as described) but it has so much hardware (metal adjustment buckles) that it kept slipping down her legs and she'd trip. Finally I put it on backwards (so the front strap goes over her back instead) and it works much much better - course that defeats the purpose of the original design but it does keep her in check.
However, the thing that really worked the best ... I put her in a 3-week class on loose leash walking and wow what a difference that made. Effective and consistent training!
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• • • Kipawa

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@DebraDownSouth:

I do 2 kinds of walks with my dogs, both do no permit pulling. On most walks, I like to use a longer leash and I allow them to sniff and do whatever… it is what is fun for them. On exercise walks, I make them heel and keep head up. That way they get that sometimes they can meander and sniff, other times it's business.

I have never tried it, but I suspect you can teach sniff, then NO SNIFF lol.

We do both on our walks, free leash and then heeling. But I would love him to have his head up more during free leash walking.
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• • • Jo-Anne

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Stinkers. 😉
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Reluctant to go for walks

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• • • SNA

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@SNA:

Thank you very much for your comments. I probably have been expecting too much of her. I had a think about what had changed for her to be so obstinate, and I realised that I had been going without my kids. Good for me as it's less work, but my four year old, I realised, was excellent at getting her going again when she stopped, simply by walking ahead, and, if needed, calling her name. Taking my four year old son also means taking my 20 month old daughter in the sling, but at least we can do our 20-30 minute walk around the block. Now I just have to think of a way of convincing my once enthusiastic son who now complains of being tired and who doesn't want to go, of coming on the walk every day!

LOL at carrying Dallas, I have to do that with Jessie nearly every time at the end too!

Does your puppy have a favorite toy? If so put it in your back pocket and then put the leash on your pet and see how that works. Just make sure your pet cannot get it by jumping. In fact you can make a game of it by playing in your home with the toy and the dog for a about 5 mins before you walk. If your dog likes squeekie toys then you can also buy a replacement squeekie and keep it in your pocket. When you are walking and want the dogs attention you can squeek it inside your pocket.

We use Martingale Collar's. Our Basenji seems to tolerate this style well. I also have noticed that leash control is very important when walking my Basenji. For that purpose I use a regular type 6 foot lead that I can wrap around my hand when I wish to take more control of my dog. I also have a very short lead ( about 2 feet or maybe less) that I use when I want the dog to concentrate on walking next to me. After my dog gets his business done, we are all about a constant pace walking. My perception is that if we are out for a walk to exercise him that we should concentrate on that aspect. I also have a 20 foot lead that I do use when we go on a leisure type walk. On that type of walk, I usually allow him to sniff and explore but I keep moving. He might run ahead slightly but then he will stop and wait and then do it again. The only time I use a flexie type or retractable leash is when I am going to let him have the room to run in a circle. Of course like any dog, the more rope or leash you give them the more they will take advantage of. My puppy does not walk perfectly, but what he does is pretty tolerable. After he does his business and we get our first 1 1/2 miles in, he settles down and gets the next 1 1/2 mile in quite nicely. Of course we did not start at that distance but we did start with at least a 1 to 1 1/2 miles when he was a little over 8 weeks old. After the walk, we worked on sit, stay, come, and lay down for about 10 to 15 mins. I always treated him with a couple of cheerio's or something similar directly after the walk. Actually he refused to drink any water until he got his cheerios.

Hope this helps,

Jason
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• • • luzmery928

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great news. I know for myself the concret hurts my knees but my concern was Champs. Great the running will continue.

2 / 2

Walking

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