It's true, I've never had to even think about crating until I got Oakley. All previous breeds were no problem staying loose in the house, oak is very house destructive so that was a no go, we also went through crate phobia but at 16 months he tolerates it better than I ever imagined
Crate Re-Training?
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I'm comfortable taking any measures necessary to train this out of Loki. I don't know if that's what you mean by confidence level - I'm great at following directions once I know what I'm doing. I think that's the main question here - where do I start?
In terms of what you asked before - I think he favors me. I have always been "mommy," and I spend more time with Loki, since I work from home twice a week, and it's me that takes him to the dog park on weekends. Oddly enough though, he always starts the night sleeping on Ryan, and only moves to my side during the night.
He gets similarly aggressive/"bitey" when he gets too riled up during play. Ryan and I know not to roughhouse with him, but sometimes when we have him around other friends, they will sometimes play rough with him, which ends up in biting 100% of the time. He will also sometimes bite when one of us comes home for the day. It seems to be an over-excitement issue, but not related to how worn out he is. I am working from home all week this week, and am making sure to take him on multiple half-hour plus walks a day (so that he will nap or play and I can actually get some work done). Next week when I'm back in the office, it's our plan to take him to a cage-free daycare in the area and see if being completely exhausted does anything.
It's too bad you're in Canada! I'd gladly invite you to come witness the crazy.
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perhaps if you are the trigger for bedtime (and I still believe its over stimulation ((nothing to do with being tired, but being tired does help, not fix it)). What if you go to the bedroom first, get into bed….give it five or ten minutes, lights out, and then have your fiance and Loki come in. Or vice-versa, your fiance go to bed, you wait and come in afterwards. Perhaps Loki is excited that "everybodys going to bed!"
Since he did well with just one person, perhaps try that??avoidance of the stim. thresh hold for enough repetition may be enough to train him out of the behavior. My oakley is much like your Loki, EASILY overstimulated, VERY mouthy, and no bite inhibition. Rough housing, tug of war...they are all out of the question for him. Same with trying to de-escalate and overstimulated session, often time because I cant use a verbal command, physically resist, or walk away without him running after me and nipping.... he gets a quick crate time out to de-escalate himself.
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I've certainly seen Basenjis get rough when played with that way, and when they get overstimulated. You certainly want to tell your friends that playing rough is "off the table". My current boy used to get pretty wild, because my husband encouraged it. When it got to leaping and sleeve pulling, I put a lid on it. But Perry would usually cool it when asked. He can still get silly when running loose in a wind, but he refrains from jumping at me because he knows better. A pup is a little different than dealing with a grown dog.
I suggested a leash as it is an easy way to take control of a situation. My own approach is a little more physical, and frowned upon by some on this forum. If I call for quiet and don't get the response I want, I will restrain the dog physically until he quits struggling. Only then do I let him go, and if he starts up again I do it again. I don't hurt him, but I do put him in a "bear hug" that he can't get away from until he stops resisting. Then I praise and release. A dog that doesn't want to be restrained can put up quite a struggle, and that may involve teeth, so it isn't an approach I would advocate if you are worried about being bitten, and once you start you don't let him go, no matter what, until he quits it. That's why I don't recommend this approach, although it has served me well and given good results when I have employed it.
I would try to head off this behaviour before it starts. If you know under what circumstances he gets over stimulated, try to "change the channel" before it occurs. If he persists in being crazy, a leash will allow you to restrain him in relative safety. I also assume you have a word to indicate to him that he should quit what he is doing? A loud "no" before you interrupt his behaviour with the leash gives him a chance to "do the right thing", and if he does, lots of praise should reward his effort to restrain himself.
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So, here's our first night update. I got into bed while my fianc? was walking Loki for the last time before bed. The hope was that maybe if I was already in bed, he wouldn't freak as much. Fiance walked Loki upstairs on his leash. However, once he let go, Loki jumped up on the bed and immediately went into digging and biting the sheets, so it doesn't appear that me being in bed first helped. However, we immediately pulled him off of the bed with the leash on and made him sit (no treats, but praise) and calm down. This probably went on for about 10 or 15 minutes - he'd jump up, dig, and then get pulled off and corrected.
After the last couple times of leash corrections, Loki decided that it was time to assert more, and started his sprinting and biting us. I immediately grabbed him, "bear hugged" him, and stopped him with a corrective "NO biting." We went through this probably three or four times, as when I'd let him go after he calmed down (and received praise), he'd go right back to biting and sprinting, but the last time, he stayed seated on the floor while I got back into bed and fianc? brushed his teeth. He waited to come back up on the bed until fianc? called him, and when he jumped up, immediately put a toy in his mouth, laid down, and went to sleep.
So all in all, not an awful start. I must be honest that I was relieved to hear you say that you use a "bear hug" on your dogs. I have done this before with other dogs I've owned, but was told that "you can't do that with a Basenji." However, I think different techniques work better for different dogs, even of the same breed. We will see how tonight goes.
Thanks again for everyone's suggestions!
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So all in all, not an awful start. I must be honest that I was relieved to hear you say that you use a "bear hug" on your dogs. I have done this before with other dogs I've owned, but was told that "you can't do that with a Basenji."
I've heard that a lot, but it hasn't been my personal experience. As a matter of fact, I posted a thread a few years ago when I was new to the forum with exactly that title. You might enjoy reading it…....it's about my experiences with my first (and best!) Basenji.
I've said it before, but it bears repeating. The dog will tell you if you are on the right track in your training. The dog will also inform you when you are not. Even if you are "doing it all right", if it isn't working, it is time to change the channel. What was that definition of insanity again? Repeating the same thing over and over and expecting different results? (of course, some people think we are all insane to want a Basenji in the first place!)
I hope you get your problems sorted out. You have previous dog experience, and Basenjis, although they have their quirks, are not so very different.
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I think it depends on the dog. It is funny, but yep the bear hug has worked with both Sayblee and Cara when they were into the wilds. (Arwen never gets wild in any way… far too dignified to be like that thank you!) If bear hugs escalates or they seriously try to bite you, then it isn't working. But most do hate being restrained enough that they get it. In fact I'd rather restrain than ever use a crate for PUNISHMENT. Now if you used the crate just to make him sleep in, yeah. But bad behavior then in crate sets up a bad connection. Hope things continue to go well.
