Skip to content

Focus help

Basenji Training
  • Oh my oh my – so many things to mull over -- I now have a copy of C.U. but not the CDs yet. I wish my instructor was better trained in CU, I can see a lot of things now that she did wrong - or at least wrong for hypersensitive dogs.
    I'm not anxious to compete so I think I have time to work on these suggestions.
    Thanks everyone !!

  • yea, ideally, the agility ring becomes your "box" as in boxwork. I think it would be fun to play with that idea in training for agility. You start with one jump in a small box, then 2 jumps in a small box, then 1 jump one tunnel in a slightly larger box, then 2 jumps 1 tunnel in a slightly larger box, etc. I have done a little of that with Zest.

    I did check the CU videos are at cleanrun under the video on demand but the GDarrett stuff is not. the video on demand will give you access to the videos for 2 weeks, but it's not yours to keep.

  • I like the CU DVDs, they were a good supplement to the book. They could use some editing but definitely helpful. I got them for Christmas and I'm still working through them. Leslie shows several examples of dogs that react to stress in different ways and how she suggests to address it. Lots of focus stuff that I've found helpful in general with a highly distracted dog. :D

  • Nemo -
    did you get the second set (the games set)? i've only gotten the first (foundation) set. So much info! i thought i'd heard there was a basenji in the second dvd set???

  • @agilebasenji:

    Nemo -
    did you get the second set (the games set)? i've only gotten the first (foundation) set. So much info! i thought i'd heard there was a basenji in the second dvd set???

    I got the foundations set that you have. Once I get through that I'll probably go for the games set at some point.

  • One last question – Is it worth our while to continue with this novice agility class? Should I drop it until we have better focus and try again later?

  • did you take some sort of foundations class??

  • Yes we had three foundations classes (working on individual obstacles and other basics).

    The current class started right off the bat with a dozen or more obstacles in sequence off leash - and because my beastie would take the first 1 or maybe 2 obstacles and then zoom off, we get sidelined every class so we have yet to do a full sequence anyway. That's why I'm thinking to drop it now and pick the class up another time and go back to work on focus basics.

  • I think only you can answer that question. if you're only practicing undesirable behavoirs, dropping the class might be a wise choice. could you take some private lessons and slowly build to more obstacles? or just rent the agility area? could you just reward after two or three obstacles, then reward after 2 or 3 more and slowly build? i wish you lived closer to me!

  • I've talked with the owner of the facility it was interesting that the owner had a similar situation in her class but caught the problem the first night. She suggested stay on leash for the sequences and treat more between obstacles (just as suggested here), so I guess we'll try and finish the class after I talk with the instructor and probably take it over with a different instructor. And the owner offered to do a private lesson with us so I'll jump on that chance too.

Suggested Topics

  • Potty training NIGHTMARE help

    Basenji Training
    8
    0 Votes
    8 Posts
    5k Views
    tanzaT
    Stop with the free feeding... this is a dog that needs to be on a schedule. And a cup and a half might be too much for a 20lb dog. Try reducing it to a cup. I have also found that feeding 2x's a dog is better than once a day. I have never let my dogs free feed. Once he is on a schedule you can mostly determine when he should have to go... and then you take him out and stay out till he goes. A trick you can use (many don't like this but I will put it out there) is what people that show use. Insert a match in his bum half way.... This will stimulate him to go, when he does praise/treat him. And until he gets the idea, you will need to keep him crated or on leash. You can search the forum for other conversations about using a match to stimulate. Search for match trick
  • Help Please!!

    Basenji Training
    20
    0 Votes
    20 Posts
    10k Views
    eeeefarmE
    If you really want to be sure your dog responds appropriately to invisible fence, it is essential to "proof" it properly. After you have thoroughly conditioned the animal to the fence, you need to use very high value distractions or lures while you are present (but not visible) to observe behavior. It's the only way to be reasonably sure your dog will not bolt through the fence, and then you still have the problem of other dogs or people possibly trespassing and causing a problem, since there is nothing to keep them out. In the country, invisible fence can work well, although there is still the chance that the dog will learn to run through it. My friend uses it at her farm, and one of her three dogs (not Basenjis) will go through the fence if the temptation is strong enough.
  • Fear of husband-help!

    Basenji Training
    25
    0 Votes
    25 Posts
    12k Views
    Patty MP
    BCraig, what a heartwarming post! Thank you for being so open and honest about your Ella! It sounds like she's found her forever forever home. :)
  • Need HELP!

    Basenji Training
    27
    0 Votes
    27 Posts
    11k Views
    JannekeJ
    @lvoss: My basenjis learn new things very quickly but they also get bored more quickly. In classes that ask for you to repeat over and over again to make sure the dog "gets it", basenjis start to goof off. All of mine get to a point where their behavior and attitude clearly say, "What is wrong with you, didn't you get this the first 5 times I did it?" This is so true! Tillo starts to talk when it takes too long for me to get the fact that he already understands the command.. so there's no need to practice anymore :D
  • Please HELP with rescued basenji

    Basenji Training
    15
    0 Votes
    15 Posts
    6k Views
    Ninabeana26N
    My vet suggested not leaving any water for him as long as I am not gone longer than 3-4 hours. I stopped leaving water & it seemed at first to stop him from peeing but only for a short time. I feed him early enough in the day that he is out of his crate for several hours after eating. He isn't even crated daily because my sister is home from college right now & thus home during the day a lot. It's only when she has to go out that we crate. His crate being too big may be a possibility. It's a good size crate because I wanted him to have room since when I lived in FL he was crated for closer to 6 hours at any given time. Plus in FL he was still sleeping in his crate. I guess I could give a smaller one a try… As far as leaving him uncrated, we are working towards that. We leave him out if it's only like 30 minutes or so to try to see what he'll do. My goal is to eventually always leave him uncrated but right now I just don't trust him enough. We left him uncrated in my room one day & he ripped a huge chunk of the carpet out [down to the concrete!] So…yea. Haha.
  • More help please! another problem..

    Basenji Training
    8
    0 Votes
    8 Posts
    3k Views
    MaxBooBooBearM
    When I was trying to keep Tyler and Zoey in the Xpen (instead of my computer and bookcase like I do now), I actually nailed it to the hardwood floor. Now I have some screw bolts on the sliding glass door frame to hook the end panel to so that they can't move it to get to my desk/bookcase. The other end panel goes behind the bookcase next to the wall. There are ways to keep it in place.