Skip to content

Any tips for the 'stay' command?

Basenji Training
  • Kipawa is doing 100% on his 'sit' command, but the 'stay' command is something else. In the morning I request a "sit" and a "stay" before feeding. But when I motion my hand in front of him for the "stay", he thinks I want to give him attention, and he goes up on his hind legs and paws at my hand (the other hand is holding the food). I don't think I am asking too much by requesting "stay" before feeding. Do you have any tips/ideas for me? At the puppy class last week, he did do "stay", and I was able to walk to the end of the 6 foot leash a few times.

  • It just takes doing the same thing over and over until the "light" goes on for a puppy.

    With my girls, I first asked them to "stand" for their treat… if they jumped up, the stand command was repeated... the second they stood, they got the treat. And believe me, you had to be quick with two wild things... They figured it out pretty quickly... then I would add the "stay", so it then became Stand/Stay... again if they stood, they got the treat. Then I added a step back with the Stand/Stay, again the second they stayed, treat time.... and so on and so one. Worked for them really well....

    As far as "stay" for their regular food, I feed them in their crates which are in a different room then the kitchen. When it is time to eat, I just tell them "Kennel" and off they go....

  • you could do a modified stay before eating. I usually use "wait", then I don't use a specific hand signal..it just means 'hang out here' until I use the release word. You can start by holding him lightly by the collar, and starting to set the food down, while saying "wait" or in my case "wwwaaaaiiittt"..as soon as he starts to move, and you can feel this through his collar, you pick up the food bowl, and say 'try again'. The goal is to get the bowl to the ground, with his body still relaxed, and then you give the release word "okay" or "free". Once he gets the idea, you can remove your hand from his collar, but the bowl still comes up if he starts to move towards.

    It is kind of hard to explain this in words, rather than showing in person. But the main idea is that he doesn't get released to the food until he is truly waiting.

  • Fran, Mary Woodward's site is so easy to follow it makes you feel faint. :)
    http://www.clickerlessons.com/index.htm

    I really recommend Mary for all basic training.

  • I certainly don't think asking for a stay is too much. My pup here knows to back up and wait for food without a command as I bring it to them they are so used to working for it.

    Another thing to watch for is bending, sometimes if you put your "stay" hand up you bend just a bit at the waist to put the hand in front of the pup. This body language says come mixed with the stay hand signal and can give the pup the signal to break the sit command. I also have found the "its yer choice" game helps with the wait or stay command, it teaches self control.
    See if when you put your hand up to say stay if you are bending at all. I have to concentrate on keeping my shoulders back and standing up straight for the stay command.
    I am familiar with Mary Woodward's site and it has some wonderful video. It helps me because I am such a visual person.
    Hug the little man for us.
    Therese

  • I am so lucky to get to hang out with a lot of dog trainers and one thing that I have struggled most with my basenjis is "stay" so it is frequently a question I ask about. The consensus with most of the trainers I talk to is that they don't really start "stay" as its own command but instead build time in holding a body position and teaching a release word. This way "sit", "down", "stand" come to mean hold that position until I tell you to do something else. Then it is a matter of the 3 Ds, Distance, Distraction, Duration. Meal times are going to be high distraction so keep your distance from him small and the duration he has to hold the position short at first. I use 100 peck to build time first and then distance. 1 click/treat, 1, 2 click/treat, 1, 2, 3 click/treat and then just go to a shorter interval if they break their stay. "Its Yer Choice" is great for helping them learn impulse control and making all of this much easier since it really helps the light go on about "I'm not getting food until I back off and wait."

  • google Overall relaxation protocol
    it breaks down the stay into to tiny steps. i used this with Zest and she has very nice sit/stays at the start line. (you can look up her first ever agility run on youtube.) I also don't use stay or wait, just "sit" or "down".

  • @Therese:

    Another thing to watch for is bending, sometimes if you put your "stay" hand up you bend just a bit at the waist to put the hand in front of the pup. This body language says come mixed with the stay hand signal and can give the pup the signal to break the sit command

    Therese, I reviewed my body language, and yes, I was bending at the waist. When I corrected this, Kipawa got the stay command right away. In puppy class this weekend, we did sit/stay while other dogs walked by. My little man held his ground 80% of the time, and I was so proud of him! Thanks so much for the tip - it made all the difference.

  • For a teenage boy to be 80% with distractions is great. We're very proud of him and his Mom for doing such a great job with him.
    His little sisters Olive (aka Fina) and Scarlett will be coming to visit us next week. I hear they are also doing well, in fact I could hear Scarlett barrooing at her dad when he called to tell us they were coming for a visit.
    The bending thing is a mistake I make frequently so I have to remind myself all the time to watch my posture.
    Therese

Suggested Topics

  • Do you have walking on leash tips?

    Basenji Training
    3
    0 Votes
    3 Posts
    3k Views
    DebraDownSouthD
    I have worked with feral dogs in rescue who had never been on a leash, adults. Teaching loose leash walking isn't hard, but you need to back it with the "leave it" command. Mary's site is so simply it will make you feel faint. And it works. No pop and jerk, just good positive training. The lessons are on the left, other issues on the right. http://www.clickerlessons.com/index.htm I certainly would go through most the training, then get into an obedience class, but make sure by positive trainers .. go watch a couple of sessions first.
  • How I 'trained' my Basenji 'Antigone'

    Basenji Training
    25
    0 Votes
    25 Posts
    21k Views
    AntigoneA
    Good Morning Debra, I do not feel as if have to defend why my HUGE dogs from the Dog Pound hated their crates. I still have an assortment of dog and cat crates from huge to small. Whenever my Basenji went to the Vet (which was often as she was a Cancer survivor and also had a seizure disorder which meant she had to take Phenobarbital 3x per day) of course she went in her crate. She didn't like it and complained until she fell asleep but she was in her crate. Big dogs from the Pound hate crates as it makes them feel extremely nervous as the crate is often like their cage in the Pound. Furthermore, it is not really safe to take a big dog that you don't know that well and put him in a crate; a great way to get bitten. I have had Malamutes, Rottweilers, Rough and Smooth Coated Collies, a Bull Mastiff and 2 Akitas. I know dogs. People call me when there is a Wolf or a nice dog that has been dumped by its owner and I usually end up rescuing it and finding a new home for him. I rarely get females for some reason. Regarding Amanda, she is the least famous person I know, I was not trying to impress anyone, I just included her as we rescue horses together and I got one of my Wolves from her. My Horse charity is a Charity. It is by Law and I am able to accept donations as I do what I say I do which is Rescue, Rehab, Re-Train and Re-Home horses. The rehab can take years and I have one 'Lifer' because she is so messed up health wise she will never have a saddle on her back because she weighs 950lbs and she should weigh 1100lbs. She has Gastric Ulcers from being drugged at the track. She is the 'Secretariat' great granddaughter. The Rescue is a 501©(3) Public Corporation and we pay taxes to the State and the Feds. That is why we are allowed to accept donations. I pay $1450.00 PER MONTH to BOARD the horses in the rescue. Donations have been down, clearly due to the economy but the horses get all they need including their joint supplements. Crate training is not something I find important for inside the house. In the car, yes! My big dogs have always ridden in their huge crates in the back of the car and fell asleep. We used to walk to the Vet. Antigone really hated being confined and let me know only the way a Basenji can, she shrieked just to let me know she was still the Alpha. I know how to use crates and I use them in the car but not in the house. My dogs and cats were all very long lived except for Howly so I think I can say I KNOW HOW TO KEEP THEM SAFE, HEALTHY, HAPPY, AND WELL. :) Antigone
  • I can't wait

    Basenji Training
    7
    0 Votes
    7 Posts
    2k Views
    KanangaK
    @Buana: Together with Janneke.. we must get a lot of pics… :D No kidding. Good luck to you both (and the dogs of course) :)
  • First time 'off leash'

    Basenji Training
    28
    0 Votes
    28 Posts
    11k Views
    lvossL
    What is a "training leash"? Is it a long line? Long lines are great for teaching loose lead walking and working on recalls. Many people seem to think that walking a dog off leash is a good thing, when in reality it is in most places breaking the law. There are some places that you can walk your dog off leash without being in violation of the law but in many places there are not many safe places that you can walk your dog off leash. As Janneke said, a real benefit to working on a long line on recall is that if your pup ever does get out then you have a tool to get him back. Name response, coming to his name with various distractions and in various places could very well save his life some day. You can play the come game in the house having people in different rooms call his name and give a treat if he comes. You can work on a long line outside calling him between two people. Only treat if he comes when called not if he is just running back and forth between you. As for him listening to you, are you taking him to training classes? What is your role in training him? The more you work him, and the more consistently you work him, the more he will listen to you. You can start really by just taking a handful of one of his meals and just ask for some basics before giving him the main meal. Sit, down, stand, I practice targeting, what ever you may be working on until you have used your handful then when you are done ask for a sit and then you can give his bowl.
  • Housebreaking Tip

    Basenji Training
    4
    0 Votes
    4 Posts
    2k Views
    M
    I use bells with my B. He learned to use them in like 2 days. Since then, I've only had "accidents" when I ignore him b/c I'm busy. Sometimes he rings them just to go out to play, but other times he rings them when he REALLY has to pee. The best thing is, they are portable so when I go visiting with him he always knows how to tell me he has to pee.
  • Puppy training tips…

    Basenji Training
    7
    0 Votes
    7 Posts
    6k Views
    firefoxkatanF
    @Mantis: when Cairo cries in his kennel ( in there with Caesar) it means he has to go to the bathroom….i have found that immediate potty once out of the kennel is a great way to help with the potty training.... yes I take her out after sleeping in the crate and when ever she has a nap it helps ~Kat