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Larz collars and harnesses

Basenji Training
  • I want to get one of those collars for Jaycee from Debby Bartos. I sent her a email and she sent me back how to measure just got to get it done.

    Rita Jean

  • These types of collars and leashes worry me. It might seem and sound better, but in my mind they seem almost more dangerous.

    Fist you have less control thanks to the stretch. Standing at road crossings and the dog suddenly leaps forward, there is nothing you can do…he will get that extra length.

    Also, lets say the dog sprints off and hits the end of the leash. He is yanked to a stop no matter if there is a "spring effect" on the leash/collar or not, but with a spring you are also applying a backward whip motion compared to a standard where the dog will just stop. In my mind that sounds more damaging.

  • The Martingale collars is the only way I will ever go with Otis, due to the fact that the dogs can not back out of it..I do not want to ever have to experince that. The bungee type though, you are right..

  • We used the bungee type leads with some of the dogs at the shelter. Some things that I learned using these leads. First off, they come in different "strengths", so for small dogs you would get one that has more give than for large dogs. If you use the correct one for the size and power of the dog you are using the "give" is really not that much. What it does do for you is that it acts as a shock absorber. It actually reduces the force on both your shoulder and the dog. Believe me when you are working with a 100 pound untrained wild child of a dog, these can make a huge difference even for the short walk from the indoor pens to the outdoor runs.

    For pullers, I prefer to use something like an Easy Walk Harness to prevent the pulling.

  • I've come to the conclusion there is no perfect collar for walking your dog.
    There are times when the dog simply doesn't want to go where you do and tries to back out of the collar – perfect situation for a martingale.
    Then there are the times when they want to walk at a fast trot and pull you along -- time for the GentleLeader head harness or body harness type.
    And of course there are the situations where they lunge after a squirrel or rabbit right into traffic -- regular collars and leashes seem to work here.
    I think you just have to pick the one that works for most of the situaitons you encounter and then work on obedience training, training, training.

  • The mystery of collars still continues….I'm going to try the larz set, My three B's get all tangled up separetly and on a petco coupling leash, chocking too, pulling. When I just had Belle she walked on the gental leader too.
    We will see, Having 2 additional B's has been an experience, good, but the dymanics has changed in this house. Dog parks are my solution to getting them tired.....run, run, run,.
    Let you know how the larz works when I receive them.

  • think you just have to pick the one that works for most of the situaitons you encounter and then work on obedience training, training, training.

    I agree, training has got to be the biggest part in this equation, then the type of harness/collar. Ultimately do we not want the dogs to obey what we want them to do, as supposed to have a gear that forces them to do what you want them to do?

  • I have the dual coupler from Larz Gear for my 2 basenjis. The shock absorber works very well and is very comfortable for our use. With that said, the coupler can be a challenge but I mainly use it when I take them places (i.e. the store, over to a friends, etc.) but still use seperate leashes when walking them to do their business as my older B prefers the flexi and having distance between him and the other one when going potty.

    I do use the leash with my younger B (on her own) as she is a major puller with squirrels around and it works very well when just walker her (and saves me from all the pulling).

    They do have 100% guarantee so if you do decide you don't like it you can return it.

  • @ljsabo:

    I have the dual coupler from Larz Gear for my 2 basenjis. The shock absorber works very well and is very comfortable for our use. With that said, the coupler can be a challenge but I mainly use it when I take them places (i.e. the store, over to a friends, etc.) but still use seperate leashes when walking them to do their business as my older B prefers the flexi and having distance between him and the other one when going potty.

    I have a coupler (a Ruffwear one) that I got when I just had 2 b kids, but rarely used it as Ruby hated it. I would say 9 out of 10 walks, both my adults are really good on lead - I walk them together of 6ft separate leads. What I find really helps is that they run around off lead for about 10 or 15 minutes before I walk them. My 9mo. pup still needs work, but she is getting much better - she usually gets 1/1 walks as she needs the training :D. This morning I walked all 3 together and was stunned that there was no pulling from any of them - slack 6ft. leads the whole 3 miles. Good kids. :D

  • @Basenjimamma:

    I agree, training has got to be the biggest part in this equation, then the type of harness/collar. Ultimately do we not want the dogs to obey what we want them to do, as supposed to have a gear that forces them to do what you want them to do?

    Yes, training is key. But not all animals respond the same way to the same thing. Sometimes it is trial and error as to what works best for which dog. In my house, it is individual even with the types of treat that work - Ruby prefers cheese, Brando beef liver, and Liyah chicken. IMHO, same with collars and leads.

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21 Sept 2009, 19:02

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    Are the wider collars okay to use with a puller? I'm still working with trying to get mine to stop pulling when we're out walking - the gentle leader helps - but I can't use that when we go to training class.
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    @SNA: I tried a head halter ages ago, for at least 3 weeks, but she just hated it. She kept trying to get it off, even after three weeks, and I just couldn't do it to her anymore. A couple of books I'm following at the moment say that head halters suppress rather than correct the behaviour. She's doing well now. Well, both the head halter, and the chest harness suppress the pulling behavior. You have to train the desired behavior at the same time. The idea is that you have to stop them from pulling, or else you can't make any progress training the correct behavior. Pulling is a self rewarding behavior; in their minds, they pull, and it makes them get to where they want to be. You have to stop that association, and retrain them that when the leash is loose you get to go where you want to be. Neither walking aide can do that, only the training.
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    When I first started leash training our pup he pulled like crazy (still does at times). I tried the gentle lead collar and it worked. The only thing is that you can't leave it on him because he will find a way to chew through it. He will paw his face until he gets it off…BUT while walking him he does great. I don't use it all the time because IMO the dog needs to learn not to pull. We alternate between a regular leash and the "head gear".
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    Many, many years ago, when my boyfriend at the time and I got our first basenji, I suggested to BF that we try a shock collar to keep him from escaping when I forgot to close the garage door or backyard gate. BF promptly agreed wholeheartedly–thought it was a fantastic idea--but he suggested that I wear the collar so that I would get shocked anytime I left open a door or gate....hahahahaha. Needless to say, we never did get a shock collar.....and I am very, very dependable now about closing doors and gates:)