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Walking more than one at a time

Basenji Training
  • QuercusQ

    @jessi76:

    jys1011 - I hear ya on needing to work off the energy! another great way to exercise is training, believe it or not. Making the dog(s) really work and think on their own, I find, is just as tiring (if not more so) than a good walk. If you can incorporate some training into your walk - even better!

    If you don't have a fenced area to practice, you can always do this inside the house. (it's not nearly as distracting as outside is, but it's a good first step)

    That is a really good point, training can be exhausting ;) and you get a better behaved dog after all that work!

    Another way to use the technique that Jessi76 mentioned is to use a 20 foot long line, if you don't have access to a fenced area. Same concept, except you have a safety line on the dog if they decide to leave.

    Andrea Walters

    Quercus Basenjis

    NW Ohio

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  • spitfirekrl1S

    These are very good ideas. My girl pulls hard the entire time we're walking except for when she finds something interesting to smell and then it's an immediate stop. And sometimes when I try to keep going she defiantly looks at me and refuses to budge. We walk A LOT so it would be very nice if it wasn't such a fight every time.

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  • jys1011J

    I can do training…I didn't know this tired them out. No wonder Topaz gets stressed out after a training session :)

    C3PO is more resilient he also listens better & is more focused. Topaz barely responds to her name she's a lot tougher. We STILL haven't mastered sit UUGHH..

    Basenji Mom of C3PO & TOPAZ

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  • C

    I seem to have the very same issues, but with my 2 pups ages 2&3 the female pulls ahead, all over the place, the male stops and will not walk in certain areas, not sure whats there, but he will not go over it, only around the spot! I am exhausted! I walk them both only because I have to with my schedule. I am working with a trainer but not doing very well just now, as the death of a close friend has stopped my training till cataloging her items and selling them is done! Glad to hear there are ways to get them to listen to me, even if I have to use FOOD. ARGH!
    Carole

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  • jys1011J

    Carol hang in there! I just go mine too & they are the same ages as yours what a coincidence. Topaz is 2 and C3PO is 3. Admittingly we also need to work on the training part. Sometimes it's just too easy to get the walk over with & come home & forget the rest. I promise by X-mas WE WILL GET THIS :)

    Basenji Mom of C3PO & TOPAZ

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  • jys1011J

    PS-by the way so sorry about your friend. Prayers & thoughts are with you.

    Basenji Mom of C3PO & TOPAZ

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  • C

    @Quercus:

    I have found that even the most well behaved when walking by herself dog, can turn into a nightmare when walking with a friend. It is really difficult to use the "be a tree" method with two, because one pull, you stop, but the other one might not be pulling…IOW there is no cause and effect message because you are dealing with two subjects.

    Exactly. I find 1 is easy to correct, but 2 can be a challenge. I've tried walking both on one side and one on either side. Mixed results. Recently, I've been allowing them a loose lead if they aren't pulling but the second they start, I make them sit then walk them on a short lead. After a few minutes of not needing constant correction, I'll let them have a loose lead again. I don't need them to walk by my side, I just don't want them to pull when they get on a scent or another dog is near. That is why I've been trying keep them on a short lead. I've considered a dog trainer, but I'm not sure if the issue is just "walking 2 at once".

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  • WrobelzooW

    Yay! I'm a semi-normal Basenji owner! I've got 2 year-old (Katie Campbell) Basenjis, and one completely understands the walking and "no pull" command, while the other (a headstrong male) is the wonder-twin that likes to activate his power walking skills outside. We have taken him to obedience training and have practiced the stopping, turning, praising, …etc techniques thousands of times. I have a partially torn rotator cuff and a bucket of tears to show for my efforts. We have a yard and the dogs get lots of exercise, but we love to take them on walks. However, here's the question. I am thinking of using the sporn for our "power walker-puller" to minimize the frustration factor. Our breeder wants to show our male dog (the power walker) and I'm wondering if it is o.k. for outside walking and then he practices indoors on his show lead. Any ideas/recommendations/wine recommendations that will help minimize our walking frustrations?

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  • tanzaT

    @Wrobelzoo:

    Yay! I'm a semi-normal Basenji owner! I've got 2 year-old (Katie Campbell) Basenjis, and one completely understands the walking and "no pull" command, while the other (a headstrong male) is the wonder-twin that likes to activate his power walking skills outside. We have taken him to obedience training and have practiced the stopping, turning, praising, …etc techniques thousands of times. I have a partially torn rotator cuff and a bucket of tears to show for my efforts. We have a yard and the dogs get lots of exercise, but we love to take them on walks. However, here's the question. I am thinking of using the sporn for our "power walker-puller" to minimize the frustration factor. Our breeder wants to show our male dog (the power walker) and I'm wondering if it is o.k. for outside walking and then he practices indoors on his show lead. Any ideas/recommendations/wine recommendations that will help minimize our walking frustrations?

    He will know the difference between how to act in the ring with Katie and how to "act" with you on a walk… you really should have no problem using something like a head halter and then Katie showing him...... IMO, the sporn will create a problem by changing his movement due to the shoulder restrictions and that is bad in the long run and IMO regardless if he is being shown or not.. but again, that is just my take on this type of harness.... Have you tried a head halter? And also remember when you are walking two, typically you have competition between the two on "who" is going to be in the lead...

    Pat Fragassi

    Tanza Basenjis

    www.tanzabasenjis.net

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  • WrobelzooW

    Thanks for the opinion. I will give a head halter a try.

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  • A

    Walking

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    @ryanp said in Walking: @ktiefen1 Hello - would you please share the type of harness that the behaviorist recommended? I have two basenjis and they're hunting instinct for squirrels and cats is taking its toll on my shoulder and back. Thank you! Behaviorists aren't in agreement on much of anything. Gentle Leaders have a lot of fans, but I'm not one of them. I believe in going back to step one and teaching your dogs not to ever pull on the leash. If someone is disabled or for some reason really needs one, that's different. But training your dog is best. If I had to use one, I'd back it with a harness or collar, especially walking 2 dogs, since getting out of one might be easier. Should add some DOGS need harnesses, not collars or head harnesses if they have neck injuries or even some eye issues. And even though I am not a big fan, they can provide more security. This article is from professionals and they prefer harnesses, as well as tell you how to choose: https://activepet.co.uk/dog-harness/ Abstract The effect on intraocular pressure (IOP) from dogs pulling against a collar or a harness was evaluated in 51 eyes of 26 dogs. The force each dog generated while pulling against a collar or a harness was measured. Intraocular pressure measurements were obtained during application of corresponding pressures via collars or harnesses. Intraocular pressure increased significantly from baseline when pressure was applied via a collar but not via a harness. Based on the results of the study, dogs with weak or thin corneas, glaucoma, or conditions for which an increase in IOP could be harmful should wear a harness instead of a collar, especially during exercise or activity.>> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16611932 For harnesses, there are currently a lot of articles about research on harnesses, which work best with the least inhibition to natural movement. This is a great article on it for anyone on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/notes/tierphysiotherapie-brigitte-jost/reflections-on-chest-harnesses/1369929759778331/
  • M

    Do you have walking on leash tips?

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    DebraDownSouthD
    I have worked with feral dogs in rescue who had never been on a leash, adults. Teaching loose leash walking isn't hard, but you need to back it with the "leave it" command. Mary's site is so simply it will make you feel faint. And it works. No pop and jerk, just good positive training. The lessons are on the left, other issues on the right. http://www.clickerlessons.com/index.htm I certainly would go through most the training, then get into an obedience class, but make sure by positive trainers .. go watch a couple of sessions first.
  • Kingsley1230K

    First time Basenji Training

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    AJs HumanA
    I saw a thread in Books (I think) called Basenji Owner's Manual that some of the members are saying is pretty good. Keep in mind that Lilu is part Shepherd too. She may end up with some behavioral traits of that breed as well. Surf the puppy sections too…lots of great information there.:)
  • S

    Using a harness for walks (Gentle Leader)

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    QuercusQ
    @SNA: I tried a head halter ages ago, for at least 3 weeks, but she just hated it. She kept trying to get it off, even after three weeks, and I just couldn't do it to her anymore. A couple of books I'm following at the moment say that head halters suppress rather than correct the behaviour. She's doing well now. Well, both the head halter, and the chest harness suppress the pulling behavior. You have to train the desired behavior at the same time. The idea is that you have to stop them from pulling, or else you can't make any progress training the correct behavior. Pulling is a self rewarding behavior; in their minds, they pull, and it makes them get to where they want to be. You have to stop that association, and retrain them that when the leash is loose you get to go where you want to be. Neither walking aide can do that, only the training.
  • S

    Reluctant to go for walks

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    ComicDom1C
    @SNA: Thank you very much for your comments. I probably have been expecting too much of her. I had a think about what had changed for her to be so obstinate, and I realised that I had been going without my kids. Good for me as it's less work, but my four year old, I realised, was excellent at getting her going again when she stopped, simply by walking ahead, and, if needed, calling her name. Taking my four year old son also means taking my 20 month old daughter in the sling, but at least we can do our 20-30 minute walk around the block. Now I just have to think of a way of convincing my once enthusiastic son who now complains of being tired and who doesn't want to go, of coming on the walk every day! LOL at carrying Dallas, I have to do that with Jessie nearly every time at the end too! Does your puppy have a favorite toy? If so put it in your back pocket and then put the leash on your pet and see how that works. Just make sure your pet cannot get it by jumping. In fact you can make a game of it by playing in your home with the toy and the dog for a about 5 mins before you walk. If your dog likes squeekie toys then you can also buy a replacement squeekie and keep it in your pocket. When you are walking and want the dogs attention you can squeek it inside your pocket. We use Martingale Collar's. Our Basenji seems to tolerate this style well. I also have noticed that leash control is very important when walking my Basenji. For that purpose I use a regular type 6 foot lead that I can wrap around my hand when I wish to take more control of my dog. I also have a very short lead ( about 2 feet or maybe less) that I use when I want the dog to concentrate on walking next to me. After my dog gets his business done, we are all about a constant pace walking. My perception is that if we are out for a walk to exercise him that we should concentrate on that aspect. I also have a 20 foot lead that I do use when we go on a leisure type walk. On that type of walk, I usually allow him to sniff and explore but I keep moving. He might run ahead slightly but then he will stop and wait and then do it again. The only time I use a flexie type or retractable leash is when I am going to let him have the room to run in a circle. Of course like any dog, the more rope or leash you give them the more they will take advantage of. My puppy does not walk perfectly, but what he does is pretty tolerable. After he does his business and we get our first 1 1/2 miles in, he settles down and gets the next 1 1/2 mile in quite nicely. Of course we did not start at that distance but we did start with at least a 1 to 1 1/2 miles when he was a little over 8 weeks old. After the walk, we worked on sit, stay, come, and lay down for about 10 to 15 mins. I always treated him with a couple of cheerio's or something similar directly after the walk. Actually he refused to drink any water until he got his cheerios. Hope this helps, Jason
  • VanessaV

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    but I was concerned that too many treats was not good. Depends on what you use for treats. The treats should be tiny – like pea size or smaller. Sometimes I use "Carry-Outs", which are soft and maybe an inch long; I get about 6 treats out of one of those. Or I use puppy kibble -- a different brand than what I feed Keoki -- one piece of kibble is the whole reward {ya gotta wonder why Gypsy -- 70 lbs-- would even care, but she responds very well to those tidbits!}. And I only give food treats as a reward for behavior, never just to give the dogs a treat. If I want to give them a treat because they are so darned cute, I give them chewies of some sort, or a peanut butter stuffed {okay, not stuffed but you know....} bone to work on. They do not get those type of things every day.