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Aggression

Behavioral Issues
  • We have 2 Basenjis 4 years old. Our neutered male, Buddy is becoming aggressive. He has always been somewhat food protective but now it is turning into any time he doesn't get his way he gets extremely angry and bites. He has had obedience training and in many ways is well trained for a Basenji but this one area concerns us deeply. He and the female, Riley are a typical Basenji couple, they don't really know who is alpha. They play but have squabbles that never seem to get too serious.

    We live in Minneapolis and when weather permits we spend 1-2 hours at the dog park. Buddy plays well with other dogs. However it has been so cold we can't spend much time out doors. Could that be a factor in hio behavior and if so, how can we moderate it?

    Mike

  • There are many threads about resourse guarding, which IMO is what is going on, it has now worked it way from warning in guarding his food to full blown biting in other situations.. Please go back through the many threads for ideas on how to work through this problem, but warning, it is not going to change over night… And IMO, the weather and not being outdoors is not the problem.

  • I had a food aggressive girl rescue that was in love with my basenji boy. I just avoided chewing bones or treats or feeding unless one was in a kennel or seperate space to monitor. And, dont forget to let your boy know you are the alpha and that behavior is unacceptable.

    My girl could never completely get rid of the food aggression. I just found it safer to avoid a potential problem all together.

  • Hypothyroid seems to crop up in basenjis, often the first symptom is the onset of aggression. There are many other symptoms, coarse coat, weight changes, but aggressions seems to be very common. If behavior modification doesn't work, you might have a full thyroid panel done, just a simple test isn't always accurate.

    Good luck!

    Anne in Tampa

  • @MacPack:

    Hypothyroid seems to crop up in basenjis, often the first symptom is the onset of aggression. There are many other symptoms, coarse coat, weight changes, but aggressions seems to be very common. If behavior modification doesn't work, you might have a full thyroid panel done, just a simple test isn't always accurate.

    Good luck!

    Anne in Tampa

    Thyroid panels (the full panel) really should be done yearly with your B's regular check up… or at the very least every two years unless a problem crops up before that.... Always good to have a base line

  • Please let us know what the vet says re the thyroid test.

  • And sometimes you have to "push" and/or demand for the complete test that is not usually done by the labs that your Vet might use…

7/7

14 Feb 2008, 02:07

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    @donc said in Social aggression issues: The good news is if you find a decent dog trainer -- easier said than done BTW -- you should be able to sort this out. There are trainers and there are trainers - and behaviourists among them but please, I beg you, find one with experience of Basenjis. They are not as other dogs, as we all know - but many trainers don't
  • Aggressive issues

    Moved Behavioral Issues 21 Jan 2018, 13:54
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    I don't want to sound personnel but if you are in control why does he keep showing aggression to other intact dogs. By taking him away from the other dog is not teaching him not to be aggressive . He may see you as boss but he wants to be second in charge and see,s all other intact dogs as a threat to his position. Don't be to proud to use a muzzle , and as I said take out to mix with intact dogs . As he can't hurt them and will soon relize,s this you need to stand up and let him know your displeasure using voice and physical presence and a small water pistol as he will hate being squirted. You should find the water pistol works a treat. I would do this every few days until his stops the aggressive behaviour , then I would try without the muzzle but always keep the water pistol with you and let him see it as he will remember what happens when he acts up. This is a method I have used to help mates control their pig dogs . I am by far an expert and are always prepared to Liston to others thoughts as this is how I learn.
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    That this arose at home but not on the street sounds like property protectiveness, and should dissipate once your dog figures out he lives there too, but you need to work on it if you want to avoid issues with other visitors. Can you remove yourself from the equation and allow the roommate to just "be" there, ignoring the dog until things settle down? Then, treats and food can reward more settled behaviour. IMO it would be a mistake to try to force the relationship in any way. A calm, matter of fact attitude should facilitate things. Definitely no approaching the dog or pushing attention on him. Let the dog set the pace. When he stops feeling threatened he will likely approach on his own. Any aggressive approach should be ignored if possible as long as it doesn't turn into an outright attack. (maybe leave a trailing leash on the dog as a way to take control if things really deteriorate, but I doubt that they will).
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    Behavioral Issues 13 Dec 2012, 05:43
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    A way to do what Debra is suggesting in a game format is Crate Games, which you can get on DVD. You said this happens when you are getting ready to leave. Pay attention to exactly what you are doing before you leave and then see how your dog is reacting. You should be able to pick up on the cues that your dog is picking up on. You can try changing the pattern of how you get ready and potentially remove the cue to lessen the behavior until you can build the good associations others described. visit BCOA on Facebook. http://facebook.com/basenji.org
  • Food aggression

    Behavioral Issues 15 Apr 2008, 02:52
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    @JazzysMom: Let me ask you this, Pat {and all}….. I've always fed my dogs separately, esp. since Keoki came into the picture because he will scarf his food and run to see if he can get what the others have. I don't crate them, but they are fed in separate rooms which puts them about ten feet away from one another. Keoki has learned NOT to hover over the other dogs, but he does kind of watch and wait for either of them to finish and then he runs over to lick their bowls. I don't have a problem with that, as they all run from bowl to bowl at the end of the meals, licking whatever {icky} they can find there. It's funny because they all get the same food. Lately, in the mornings only, Jazz won't eat UNTIL Keoki finishes and and then she will growl and ruuuuun for her bowl. So, the last few days I have put her bowl near his {as an experiment}-- w/in maybe 2 feet -- and she will immediately eat while he does. He eats faster, and it's almost as if she slows down when she knows he's finished. She picks up one piece of food at a time to carefully chew it, with the occasional quiet growl to remind him that it is hers. What is up with that? Honestly…sounds like a fight in the making to me. Eating faster is the first level of resource (in this case food) guarding. She may be eating slower for any number of reasons...the first one I thought of was a calming signal to him? I doubt she is trying to tease him...but she may be trying to make a point...mine, calm down, mine, calm down... These kind of things tend to escalate, so IMO, I wouldn't even experiment with it. Why not feed them separately, like with doors in between? It has got to be less stressful for the dogs if they don't have to worry if the other dog is going to bully them for their food...or on the other hand, if they can bully the other dog.
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    Some basenjis seem to have particular kinds of dogs they don't like. My Abbey is best friends with a rottweiller, a black lab, and a dalmation, but she hates golden retrievers! What do they go by, coat color?? She goes after anything that moves at the vet's though. My first basenji many years ago, Pumpkin, climbed trees to get after squirrels, and fences were no problem either.