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Oakley has food aggression in the presence of other dogs

Behavioral Issues
  • DebraDownSouthD

    In general, unless a dog is charging to attack, I try to avoid ever giving physical corrections. HOWEVER, working hard on the look at me/leave it command til you get 100 percent at home, then going to a park or having a friend help with dropping food or toys or whatever and work on it there. Animals build neural paths to behaviors and the more you work, the more situations you introduce where you can get Oakley to put his eyes and attention ON YOU no matter what is going on, the better.

    Debra

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  • Chealsie508C

    Sonnyboy- I remember you saying you got in to see Dr. Dodman, I have heard good things about him. Certainly I am looking for certified behaviorists/ professionalisms who specialize in food directed aggression/ possession. I want to have names and numbers in my pocket for sure, especially because I know this is going to be a long turnaround process. Eeefarm and Debra, good suggestions: I did take him home after the chip/person incident, it was late and we were there at least 1.5-2 hours at that point and you could tell being "over it" had something to do with the how far he took it. The physical correction is one I'm not comfortable with, I have in the past grabbed his muzzle (like the other night) to close it during a growl and saying no..but I don't think it's the correct response, as he then seems to use that as spite the next time..besides taking him from the situation is it appropriate to raise tone and say "no" or "leave it" ?

    "I know I've found the breed for me because he totally turns my life upside down and I love it!"

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  • DebraDownSouthD

    Very appropriate to say a stern no and leave it. For some, holding the muzzle is also okay, but if it escalates his behavior, obviously not for him.

    I just feel the more you work with him consistently that food is NOT his, not at home, not on the street, not out, the less he will react to it. Once you reset his mind to "the only food I get is what I am given" the better it will be. And although not an issue at home generally, starting at home all the time with work for food, well it will lay the foundation.

    Debra

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  • Chealsie508C

    Working with Oakley..progress is slow but had promising results during our "boarder stay"…he instantly remember the dog who we had as a 8-12 week puppy...he had moments of snarkiness which are very typical for him, coming too Close when he's sleeping, after he's played for awhile..as far as the food goes it was better than expected. He seemed ok to eat in the kitchen with her as long as he ate first...the only troublesome moments were in anticipation of the meal as I was fixing their bowls, he would go after her and snark and bite but not viciously..it was stern, don't get me wrong but he seemed not to take it to the next level which he would have done with a dog he didn't know. The bigger issue was when "I" was eating..my food sparked definite territorialsm, he would get aggressive but still with a stop filter..he wouldn't allow her near me and she knew to backoff and stay alway. I did end up crating him during my meals when he got too stimulated. Overall, I was surprised to see he didn't viciously try to hurt her but he definitely displayed inappropriate behaviors (for what I'd want to see in the future). I'm pleased it was better than expected and have a better direction in training

    "I know I've found the breed for me because he totally turns my life upside down and I love it!"

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    Basenjis' function in the wild is to go after small game. I expect mine to hunt (and kill if they catch them) squirrels and rabbits. Other dogs are a no-no ! Mine know I do not tolerate aggression to other dogs, regardless of their size. We are just back from a long walk in the forest where my two ran free and hunted (abortively, nothing caught) with a Cocker Spaniel. We met and chatted with lots of other dogs of all shapes and sizes and their owners . Humans stopped to chat, dogs did the normal meet, greet and sniff and there was not a single cross word. The only trainer mine have ever had is their own pack alpha - ME ! Do not let aggressive behaviour take hold. Nip it in the bud NOW.
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    I don't want to sound personnel but if you are in control why does he keep showing aggression to other intact dogs. By taking him away from the other dog is not teaching him not to be aggressive . He may see you as boss but he wants to be second in charge and see,s all other intact dogs as a threat to his position. Don't be to proud to use a muzzle , and as I said take out to mix with intact dogs . As he can't hurt them and will soon relize,s this you need to stand up and let him know your displeasure using voice and physical presence and a small water pistol as he will hate being squirted. You should find the water pistol works a treat. I would do this every few days until his stops the aggressive behaviour , then I would try without the muzzle but always keep the water pistol with you and let him see it as he will remember what happens when he acts up. This is a method I have used to help mates control their pig dogs . I am by far an expert and are always prepared to Liston to others thoughts as this is how I learn.
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  • G

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    @CanisBasenjius: And then there of course is your key phrase, "if the dog has been properly trained with the fence". Many are poorly trained with the fence and, IME, many are willing to run through it given a good enough reason. Just one more reason I dislike them. Gotta say, I agree with everyone else that has said, "Get a physical fence." If you had one, OP, this would never have happened. That is indeed the key phrase, and I should have emphasized it more. Of course, if a small dog teased at the fence when the confined dog was still in training, you bet an association could result! And I would agree some dogs certainly do learn to run through invisible fence. I have a friend with one of those. Two of her three (non Basenjis) never do it, one will with sufficient provocation. She knows she will get zapped, but she just runs fast and takes the punishment to get at those darn coyotes! To the original point, I don't have a handy dog example, but my friend's stallions have not learned to dislike mares in heat because they get zapped trying to get at them. They know it is the fence and they know they are going to get a jolt, but a mare flashing right by the fence is sometimes just too much temptation! They don't go through the fence, however. Gallagher has a way of changing your mind. :) However, they have no issues breeding the same mares when the fence is not in the way, and show no difference in attitude toward them and other mares that have not been close to the fence, so I would say there is no confusion there in terms of the cause of the shock. Of course, horses may be smarter than the average dog….. In the city, I think an actual physical fence is pretty much a necessity. In the country, depending on circumstances, maybe not so much.
  • L

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    @Patty: In my opinion you shouldn't be showing him like this - even though this aggression seems to be against certain individuals there could be a time when he takes against the judge. Yes, getting kicked out of the ring because your dog growls and won't stand still for the judge is very very embarrasing!! This did not happen to me with a B but the Shiba Inu we had. I was 16, it was her first show and she growled at the judge and would not stand still on the table…...I got excused from the ring.....in my hometown.....and its a small little show, 175 dogs. After that show we got her spayed, as I did not want to carry on that temperment in puppies. She was a very good dog but I am glad we spayed her because she had an attitude! She was my first show dog and we did not do proper research on the breeder first. Sorry, this is getting off topic.
  • L

    Food aggression

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    @JazzysMom: Let me ask you this, Pat {and all}….. I've always fed my dogs separately, esp. since Keoki came into the picture because he will scarf his food and run to see if he can get what the others have. I don't crate them, but they are fed in separate rooms which puts them about ten feet away from one another. Keoki has learned NOT to hover over the other dogs, but he does kind of watch and wait for either of them to finish and then he runs over to lick their bowls. I don't have a problem with that, as they all run from bowl to bowl at the end of the meals, licking whatever {icky} they can find there. It's funny because they all get the same food. Lately, in the mornings only, Jazz won't eat UNTIL Keoki finishes and and then she will growl and ruuuuun for her bowl. So, the last few days I have put her bowl near his {as an experiment}-- w/in maybe 2 feet -- and she will immediately eat while he does. He eats faster, and it's almost as if she slows down when she knows he's finished. She picks up one piece of food at a time to carefully chew it, with the occasional quiet growl to remind him that it is hers. What is up with that? Honestly…sounds like a fight in the making to me. Eating faster is the first level of resource (in this case food) guarding. She may be eating slower for any number of reasons...the first one I thought of was a calming signal to him? I doubt she is trying to tease him...but she may be trying to make a point...mine, calm down, mine, calm down... These kind of things tend to escalate, so IMO, I wouldn't even experiment with it. Why not feed them separately, like with doors in between? It has got to be less stressful for the dogs if they don't have to worry if the other dog is going to bully them for their food...or on the other hand, if they can bully the other dog.