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Oakley has food aggression in the presence of other dogs

Behavioral Issues
  • DebraDownSouthD

    In general, unless a dog is charging to attack, I try to avoid ever giving physical corrections. HOWEVER, working hard on the look at me/leave it command til you get 100 percent at home, then going to a park or having a friend help with dropping food or toys or whatever and work on it there. Animals build neural paths to behaviors and the more you work, the more situations you introduce where you can get Oakley to put his eyes and attention ON YOU no matter what is going on, the better.

    Debra

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  • Chealsie508C

    Sonnyboy- I remember you saying you got in to see Dr. Dodman, I have heard good things about him. Certainly I am looking for certified behaviorists/ professionalisms who specialize in food directed aggression/ possession. I want to have names and numbers in my pocket for sure, especially because I know this is going to be a long turnaround process. Eeefarm and Debra, good suggestions: I did take him home after the chip/person incident, it was late and we were there at least 1.5-2 hours at that point and you could tell being "over it" had something to do with the how far he took it. The physical correction is one I'm not comfortable with, I have in the past grabbed his muzzle (like the other night) to close it during a growl and saying no..but I don't think it's the correct response, as he then seems to use that as spite the next time..besides taking him from the situation is it appropriate to raise tone and say "no" or "leave it" ?

    "I know I've found the breed for me because he totally turns my life upside down and I love it!"

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  • DebraDownSouthD

    Very appropriate to say a stern no and leave it. For some, holding the muzzle is also okay, but if it escalates his behavior, obviously not for him.

    I just feel the more you work with him consistently that food is NOT his, not at home, not on the street, not out, the less he will react to it. Once you reset his mind to "the only food I get is what I am given" the better it will be. And although not an issue at home generally, starting at home all the time with work for food, well it will lay the foundation.

    Debra

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  • Chealsie508C

    Working with Oakley..progress is slow but had promising results during our "boarder stay"…he instantly remember the dog who we had as a 8-12 week puppy...he had moments of snarkiness which are very typical for him, coming too Close when he's sleeping, after he's played for awhile..as far as the food goes it was better than expected. He seemed ok to eat in the kitchen with her as long as he ate first...the only troublesome moments were in anticipation of the meal as I was fixing their bowls, he would go after her and snark and bite but not viciously..it was stern, don't get me wrong but he seemed not to take it to the next level which he would have done with a dog he didn't know. The bigger issue was when "I" was eating..my food sparked definite territorialsm, he would get aggressive but still with a stop filter..he wouldn't allow her near me and she knew to backoff and stay alway. I did end up crating him during my meals when he got too stimulated. Overall, I was surprised to see he didn't viciously try to hurt her but he definitely displayed inappropriate behaviors (for what I'd want to see in the future). I'm pleased it was better than expected and have a better direction in training

    "I know I've found the breed for me because he totally turns my life upside down and I love it!"

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    My dog bit me.

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    DebraDownSouthD
    :::Note: I’m not a professional trainer, I have a degree in psychology and im a teacher; a dog is like a 2-4 year old. Every dog is different though, maybe I’ve just gotten lucky, but what I’ve been doing has been working for me; maybe it will for you.::: LOL, not luck... good common sense. We do basic training to get solid responses in controlled environments, which gives a good base for expanding it to other situations. Like eeeefarm, I don't thing animal aggressive dogs need to socialize with strange dogs. I keep them separated. For the unexpected, working at home on basic commands (Leave It!, "look at me" to focus on you and understand the other dog is off limits, solid 100 percent down-stay) can help you avoid your dog getting revved enough to bite. That means you have to stay on top of things, change directions if necessary, and be firm and loud in asking others to not approach with their dog. Training is wonderful bonding, and it exercises their brains. http://www.clickerlessons.com/index.htm
  • M

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    BigVB
    I don't want to sound personnel but if you are in control why does he keep showing aggression to other intact dogs. By taking him away from the other dog is not teaching him not to be aggressive . He may see you as boss but he wants to be second in charge and see,s all other intact dogs as a threat to his position. Don't be to proud to use a muzzle , and as I said take out to mix with intact dogs . As he can't hurt them and will soon relize,s this you need to stand up and let him know your displeasure using voice and physical presence and a small water pistol as he will hate being squirted. You should find the water pistol works a treat. I would do this every few days until his stops the aggressive behaviour , then I would try without the muzzle but always keep the water pistol with you and let him see it as he will remember what happens when he acts up. This is a method I have used to help mates control their pig dogs . I am by far an expert and are always prepared to Liston to others thoughts as this is how I learn.
  • farabuttoF

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    farabuttoF
    @DebraDownSouth Thanks Debra, you've given me a lot to think about. I think I'll start immediately with the "leave it" training at home and then get in touch with some trainers/behaviorists in my area. I'm not expecting any miracles here but, like you said, even just learning to ignore other dogs would make such a difference.
  • K

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    C
    My Basenji Kobi gets along with all dogs she has met except one particular one in our sub. For some reason they just dont like each other, and he is just as growly with her as she is with him. Now I took her to my brothers house and she met his dog for the first time, a huge boxer pitbull mix. And they were a little snarky with each other at first, but the minute they got off the leash and were running around the yard they had a blast. But in the house his dog was very domineering and they got into it a little. But we watched them and they seemed to work it out. His dog was definitely the dominant one in the house, but my little girl ran circles around her outside. She was definitely the leader outside. His poor girl could not keep up with her. lol.
  • G

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    eeeefarmE
    @CanisBasenjius: And then there of course is your key phrase, "if the dog has been properly trained with the fence". Many are poorly trained with the fence and, IME, many are willing to run through it given a good enough reason. Just one more reason I dislike them. Gotta say, I agree with everyone else that has said, "Get a physical fence." If you had one, OP, this would never have happened. That is indeed the key phrase, and I should have emphasized it more. Of course, if a small dog teased at the fence when the confined dog was still in training, you bet an association could result! And I would agree some dogs certainly do learn to run through invisible fence. I have a friend with one of those. Two of her three (non Basenjis) never do it, one will with sufficient provocation. She knows she will get zapped, but she just runs fast and takes the punishment to get at those darn coyotes! To the original point, I don't have a handy dog example, but my friend's stallions have not learned to dislike mares in heat because they get zapped trying to get at them. They know it is the fence and they know they are going to get a jolt, but a mare flashing right by the fence is sometimes just too much temptation! They don't go through the fence, however. Gallagher has a way of changing your mind. :) However, they have no issues breeding the same mares when the fence is not in the way, and show no difference in attitude toward them and other mares that have not been close to the fence, so I would say there is no confusion there in terms of the cause of the shock. Of course, horses may be smarter than the average dog….. In the city, I think an actual physical fence is pretty much a necessity. In the country, depending on circumstances, maybe not so much.
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    DebraDownSouthD
    djaan, how about removing your spam link… then people might think your posts are serious.