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I need help having two problems

Basenji Training
  • @Quercus:

    My advice is buy some more binkies and watch the puppy every minute. Each time he gets a binkie, whap yourself over the head for not keeping your eye on him

    exactly…..whapping the puppies is not allowed--but whapping yourself is fine :) I could never get Max in all of his 16 years to stay away from anything irresistable that was left within his reach or unattended. After a few years, I was much improved about picking up after myself and had to whap myself less often :)

  • Quercus

    Could you share some of your communication tactics with us?

    Also the gummy part of the pacifier maybe what is of interest. I know i love chewing on gummy stuff, a bad habit yes but it feels good and I am not teething. LOL. I am new to the doggy world here, but if you could find a chewy, think gummy bear texture, toy it may help. Just a thought.

  • When Jazzy was young I used to put her on her side and hold her when she got snarky with me, but it wasn't a forceful or terrifying event.

    I'd put her on her side and hold her with one hand on her shoulder and the other on her hip until she settled down. I'd talk calmly to her the whole time, and once she stopped arguing, I'd keep one hand on her shoulder and stroke her with the other hand until she really relaxed.
    Then I'd release her and she'd usually lay there for a minute letting me rub her sides.
    I only had to do that a few times before she stopped snarking at me altogether.

    I don't go in for the throwing the dog down on its back, holding the throat, etc method that seemed to be popular a few years back. But our method was actually pretty gentle and calmed her very quickly. And I have a dog that listens very well to what she is told, but always obeys with perky ears and a perky attitude. There's no fear in her.

  • Yeah, that is called a "down restraint" and I teach that to my clients as well. It is different from the "alpha roll" because you start training it when the dog is calm, and rather than correcting the dog by forcing them over, you are teaching them to calm themselves; while also letting them know that you will control their body when you want to. But it is very gentle, slow, and calm as you described…and the release happens when the dog relaxes.

  • Basically, my way of training (not that it is unusual) steers away from the older way of thinking that people must constantly let their dogs know they are in charge. We teach our dogs how we want them to behave gently, and set them up for success.

    For instance if one of the dogs is doing something I don't want them to, I usually try to train a replacement behavior that is incompatible with the unwanted behavior. So, if the dogs are hovering around my preschooler as he is eating. I train them to sit on the couch and wait until he is done before they can get up.

    I don't know…I guess I kind of have everything set up so they rarely get into trouble, they all have a nice strong "leave it" ..so I don't have go around saying "No....no....no....stop that" If they do have or do something they shouldn't I actually get up, and remove it.

    If they need a correction, it is much more effective, IMO to grab their scruff and give them a little shake and growl. Though I rarely do this with my dogs, and I would hesitate to suggest anyone try that with their dog, if they don't know how they might react.

    Does that answer your question? If you check out trainers such as Patricia McConnell, Ian Dunbar, Jean Donaldson...some of those folks, those are the people I trust.

    And, strangely...our Ivy always ate the hard plastic part of the binkie...so even if she just had it for a milisecond she would make the plastic part scratchy!

  • @Quercus:

    Basically, my way of training (not that it is unusual) steers away from the older way of thinking that people must constantly let their dogs know they are in charge. We teach our dogs how we want them to behave gently, and set them up for success.

    For instance if one of the dogs is doing something I don't want them to, I usually try to train a replacement behavior that is incompatible with the unwanted behavior. So, if the dogs are hovering around my preschooler as he is eating. I train them to sit on the couch and wait until he is done before they can get up.

    I don't know…I guess I kind of have everything set up so they rarely get into trouble, they all have a nice strong "leave it" ..so I don't have go around saying "No....no....no....stop that" If they do have or do something they shouldn't I actually get up, and remove it.

    If they need a correction, it is much more effective, IMO to grab their scruff and give them a little shake and growl. Though I rarely do this with my dogs, and I would hesitate to suggest anyone try that with their dog, if they don't know how they might react.

    Does that answer your question? If you check out trainers such as Patricia McConnell, Ian Dunbar, Jean Donaldson...some of those folks, those are the people I trust.

    And, strangely...our Ivy always ate the hard plastic part of the binkie...so even if she just had it for a milisecond she would make the plastic part scratchy!

    Yep Guru chews on the hard part even though I did once find it in his mouth like you would see in a babies mouth like he was sucking on it.

  • Andrea- I luv Patricia Mcconnell I got several of her pamphlets & things have been working out great!! She even recommended a behaviorist in my area that I'm hoping to set up an appt with to help us out :)

    She's having a seminar in NJ that I plan to attend.

  • @jys1011:

    Andrea- I luv Patricia Mcconnell I got several of her pamphlets & things have been working out great!! She even recommended a behaviorist in my area that I'm hoping to set up an appt with to help us out :)

    She's having a seminar in NJ that I plan to attend.

    Oh, that's great! I hope you can hook up with someone that can really help. When is the NJ seminar? I met her about four years ago (geez time flies)! She is really a neat woman…so brilliant! I mentioned a problem I was having with one of the dogs...and she said something to the effect of "well I said this technique works with dogs...not Basenjis" totally tongue in cheek...but she understands that they *are different, but not untrainable :)

  • She's appearing in Madison NJ on Oct 7th. I can't wait to see her. I think she's great & her methods are really brilliant.

  • IMHO, please be careful with the alpha roll over, I used to do that when I first started dog training many years ago, I eventually had an aggression problem with the dog, got bit pretty good. I guessed it was my fault and never rolled one since. I never used pacifiers with my son, so no dog troubles there, but his blanky got stolen often. gg It sure cannot hurt to put the litterbox there and see what happens, its easy, fairly clean, and better than cleaning the rug often. You could also try using a scatter rug over the other rug, see if that helps any! I have one spot where one of the dogs, having gotten too excited, peed, they still go there if excited. I love my dogs, oh well its only in the hall. ggg Good luck, hope you find a solution! Carole

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    I've talked with the owner of the facility it was interesting that the owner had a similar situation in her class but caught the problem the first night. She suggested stay on leash for the sequences and treat more between obstacles (just as suggested here), so I guess we'll try and finish the class after I talk with the instructor and probably take it over with a different instructor. And the owner offered to do a private lesson with us so I'll jump on that chance too.
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    All good suggestions so far for you to try. Here's my suggestions based on my experiences. 1. When mine first came to my home I would arrange a bit of vacation time so that the first day I was with them totally, then the next day I would disappear out the door for 15 minutes and then for longer times, then the third day I disappeared for an hour or more, etc., until I could go to work for half a day then eventually for my full regular work day. This took me about a week to train the dog to be home alone. 2. The second basenji that came into my life had been broken of his crate training by an ignorant owner so I never could get him back into it. Instead I blocked off a corner of the kitchen for him with a bed and toys for him to stay in for the first several days. Gradually I allowed him more wandering room until he was trustworthy enough to have access to the whole house. This took about a month. 3. Be sure to give your dog a variety of toys and especially the kind that you can put kibble or other food in (such as "Kong" toys). Basenjis need mental stimulation or they get bored (=destructive). My current basenji gets frozen raw marrow bones when I go to work and sometimes she'll still be nawing on it when I get home. I also save old bones and fill the hole with kibble and yogurt or pumpkin and then freeze and give this to her sometimes. 4. Someone mentioned rawhide but I've never had luck with that - it's not digestable and has caused problems with my dogs (one time a piece got stuck in the digestive tract and he screamed "bloody murder" with every movement). Never give your dog a treat unsupervised until you know she can handle it or doesn't have an allergic reaction to it. Once you know its safe then okay - but even then I never give the stick type treats to mine unless I'm home to supervise. Hope this helps.
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