It's a slow process, be patient and consistent with her. We adopted Bolt 6 years ago, he's 12 y/o and 3/4 Africain. We don't know his history, but at some point he got into a dog fight. He has the scars to prove it. When we walk, there are certain dogs that will trigger a violent reaction from him. Over the years I've gotten very good at reading other people, and how they walk their dogs, plus reading their dog's body language. A high straight up tail tightly wagging will send him off the rails. I've worked extensively with him to the point that he is manageable when he sees other dogs. I usually make him sit, or give as wide a distance as I can allow. BUT, he is a biter, so I'm extremely cautious when I'm around other people. All bets are off if that other dog is not leashed!! It does get better, and yes you can teach an older dog new behaviors, I certainly did.
leash reactivity vs aggression
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Re: Leash aggression/pulling with other dogs
I found that getting aa FRONT clip harness, that the leash clips at the breast bone works extremely well for leash reactivity. Many dogs have leash reactivity and not actual aggression to other dogs. The difference is, when dogs meet head to head at the end of leashes a buch of physiological things are happening that signal the dog to pull and bark. After awhile this becomes a habit. A snug fitting front clip harness ( take it off at home) will cause the dog to turn and look at the leash handler in stead of the physiological response of pulling that happens with a collar or back clip harness. You may still have some work to do with the dog it the pulling and bark or snapping has gone on for awhile. A great resource for this is the book "Ckick to Calm" Not every one loves clicker training and you can use a verbal marker instead of a clicker. The book has an excellent protocol for this issue . I am not affiliated with the author or Karen Pryor. -
Sounds good in theory, doesn't seem to work that well for the people using that type of harness in my area. The best tool I've seen is a modification of the gentle leader, one version of which is called the "Perfect Pace", which seems to do the trick for dogs that pull and lunge on leash without risking damage to their necks, since it doesn't turn their head. If you want the dog to look at you instead of the other dog, that behaviour is easily taught and put on cue with clicker training.....
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@arbust91 said in leash reactivity vs aggression:
Ckick to Calm"
Click to Calm is by Karen Pryor. I admire her work, but I don't agree with this one. Dogs are leash aggressive or leash reactive for many reasons. I'd rather go back to step one, teaching loose leash walking, "look at me" , down stays and other commands and training that get the dog to do what you want through positive training. Having a dog pulled around can create MORE reactivity.
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I would never use a harness...and I do not recommend its use for any pups that I place, especially on a young dog of any breed... it restricts their movement and can lead (IMO) to problems later on as they need to adjust their strides to compensate for restrictive front end movement... Especially for any dog that might be a show dog and a pet... (as my are).... Try a head harness that works like with horses...
