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Need help with slalom

Basenji Training

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  • mummybickM

    New puppy! Need help please!

    Basenji Training
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    eeeefarmE
    One of the best strategies if you will be going out is to put the treats in the crate a short time before you leave and lock the dog out, so he can see them but not access them. Hopefully by the time you are ready to depart the dog will be anticipating getting into that crate and enjoying his treats! This can work very well and result in a dog that is looking forward to you leaving. I did something similar with my dog's roller ball, loading it up and making him wait for it. This dog that formerly had separation anxiety would become impatient and sometimes baroo to tell me he wanted me to leave so that he could have his ball!
  • D

    Help with my Basenji

    Basenji Training
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    No one has replied
  • B

    Well needed exerise

    Basenji Training
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    renaultf1R
    @ComicDom1: MacPack, thanks for the info on the walky dog. I watched both movies where they are riding the bike and the dog is attached. While I would like to try something like this with my Basenji, I am somewhat nervous because I fear either my Basenji or I will get hurt if the dog just stops dead in his tracks, sees prey and decides to try to bolt and take off after it, or sees something else he wants and either bolts forward or sideways. Do you have any personal experience using this Walky-Dog attachment? Thanks, Jason I haven't used this attachment, but still run Ruby on the bike. The reason you won't lose your balance with the Walky Dog is because it is attached to the seatpost - your center of gravity. Put it on the handle bar stem and that would be a different story. The other key thing is with the Walky Dog (and the way I run Ruby) is that they can't get to the wheels of the bike. Honestly when I run Ruby, I don't feel like she is even attached to the bike - there is no pulling. The one thing I found when running Ruby is that even if there is prey that she might be interested in, she is moving forward and in a manner that doesn't allow freedom to go in another direction. I've encountered rabbits, squirrels, deer and cats and never had her try to chase off to the side. If they are in front of her, she will pick up speed, so I try to match her speed. She's looked at them, then looked at me and all I've said is "keep going or forget it" and there has never been a problem. Mostly she is looking ahead and having a blast running. We run a steady pace on the flats of about 14 - 16mph (11mph up hill - great for her, but it nearly kills me :eek:)…I'm sure she could go faster, but we go about 4 - 6 miles so I don't want to completely wipe her out. You want to tire out a basenji - a bike is a great tool!
  • SharlaS

    Help with Recall

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    rnastoR
    Roast Beef, Chicken, Turkey, etc. In short Lunch Meat
  • Ginger_and_ChristineG

    Help with socialization

    Basenji Training
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    nomrbddgsN
    I've had to retrain a pug and a chihuahua not to bite me when clipping their nails. The pugs' nails were left to grow and ended up growing into the pads of the foot. The vet wanted to put the dog to sleep to trim the nails. She now lets me trim the nails-with a dremel-without trying to bite. The Chihuahua was put under to trim it's nails before I had it. It took me six weeks to just touch it's feet, but after that we were able to move very quickly and cut it's nails within a few weeks. It does take a lot of time-but it's worth it.
  • spitfirekrl1S

    Need some advice…

    Basenji Training
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    QuercusQ
    <> He may not find a kong with PB all that important. I am sure there is something out there, that he would find rewarding enough to go into the kitchen when he KNOWS he is going in for the day. Try a raw marrow bone...like a knuckle or femur that you can get from a butcher. Try not feeding him at all, until he goes into the kitchen in the morning...if he wants to eat, he has to go into the kitchen. Other than that, it sounds like you are handling it very well. He may have to wear a lead to get him into the kitchen, then you can remove it. I imagine he was allowed to pretty much do whatever he wanted in his last home...so he is confused with the new restrictions, and boundaries you have put in place (ones that he should have had from the beginning). It is hard when a dog has to start from square one, especially when they have learned that using their mouth can get them what they want. Good for you for hanging in there. He will eventually learn that he has to cooperate. I would definitely use his food for reward for good behavior. Doesn't mean you have to withhold his food if he doesn't cooperate...but you can use his food to help him realize what you want him to do.