The Sloughis, Salukis and Azawakhs come from Africa which is probably as far as the origins of the Labrador (Canada) than you get.

As Janneke said a greyhound is all about sprint muscle - the limit of their ability to run is because they would overheat if they needed to do prolonged activity as muslce produces heat when being used - even in Ireland and UK, not known for their temperatures above 20 when rabbits/hares would be in the fields for hunting. My ex-coursing greyhound mix would find a puddle in the coldest of days after a sprint to cool herself down.

The Azawakhs, Salukis and Sloughis need to be able to hunt in much hotter temps, mid to high 20s and probably more, therefore they cannot have either fat layer or the rounded muscle of the greyhound as they would suffer from muscle meltdown, even after a short chase, let alone an extended hunt.

Therefore their physiology has evolved to have the sparest of muscle (minimal heat generated, and maximum heat dissipated when exercising), which in turn means they can never get the well-covered look of our temperate climate breed dogs.

I would be devastated if we in the West change the most basic characteristic of these breeds simply because we don't like the look of it, either because its different compared to our temperate climate breeds, our perception of what is healthy has become so distorted because we are used to seeing fat as normal or we are too lazy to educate ourselves about what is different. I can well appreciate that these dogs do not appeal to everyone but surely that is no reason to change them?

I think some of these dogs that were thought 'too skinny' were immature which is why their bones are more prominent, they've yet to get their full muscle, sparse as it is, which adds shape.

Also I hate to see a fat layer on any dog - muscle yes, fat no. The fact that some folks starve any dog before a show just shows their ignorance, and laziness in not getting the dog into proper fit condition and using 'short cuts' to get the desired 'well muscled-look'. Rather than get the 'look', they should get the real thing! Their dogs would be much happier too I'm sure.

Vets are like any other professionals, some are really good, some are not so great. I would contact your practice and ask them when you pup will be safe to take out again - in view of the antibiotics as well as the vax - also sometimes having antibiotics at the same time can make the vax less effective.

Also when the vet says not to take the pup for a walk do they really mean not to take him to areas where other dogs might be?

Here is a link to a free down load of Dr Ian Dunbar's 'After you get your puppy'
http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/AFTER%20You%20Get%20Your%20Puppy.pdf
Which talks about all the socialisation your puppy will benefit from in helping turn him into a dog that will be a pleasure to be around.

Also do not think of obedience class as something to start at a certain age. Think of it more that you are teaching him manners, and 'right from wrong' in your world - eg to a dog the whole world is a chew toy. To you his toys are chew toys and everything else is off limits. Again the download I've linked will help you work through these things.

The same with play if you run with Basil it is perfectly normal for him to want to grab you trousers/legs, you need to show him this is not appropriate play with a human. Have a toy, like the ball, or a soft toy/rope tug that you substitute for your trousers. That way the game continues. If he insists on attacking your legs. Just stand up and walk away game over. He'll soon learn which is the most rewarding - what keeps the game going.

We run puppy classes which if the puppy owners want to keep training their dogs (and most do) they go on to our more formal class after they graduate from the puppy socialisation course as the pups have learnt how to concentrate and work for short periods in an environment with other dogs and are ready for more focussed training.

Good luck with your little guy, he certainly is a cutie-pie!

I'd like to make some points in relation to items raised on this thread.

a) If we are satisfied that the the African dogs that have been added to the stud book are in fact African village dogs from the same isolated populations from whence our original Basenjis came from, then they are to me more true Basenjis than any else where in the world. They have bred, largely amongst themselves to survive African conditions and no doubt forage and hunt for their own food etc. Surely its up to us to educate our breeders and judges that perhaps our understanding of what a good Basenji is has shifted away from the African Basenji to now be the International Basenji?

b) Secondly someone made comment on the poor structure of the African dogs? Really - have they not looked at many of the dogs now gracing our show rings? Straight shoulders and over angulated rears seem to be the name of the game at the moment, throw in a few weak pasterns, undulating top-lines, unfit dogs and I really don't think the African dogs are any worse than our non African stock. A flashy side gait does not make a sound dog able to stand up to a life of finding your own food and no veterinary treatment, for a sore back after a lure coursing run. These African dogs are different maybe, but I sincerely doubt structurally worse.

With regard to adding in African stock I think it does some excellent things: - its starts discussion - we may not all agree but we start talking about aspects of this dog that feel are essential to it being a Basenji.

However I also find it interesting reading the Coppingers' 'Dogs a New Understanding', who are evolutionary biologists focussing on dogs and that they say that the 'Natural Breeds' are constantly shifting and changing in response to their environment, food sources, disease etc - and paraphrasing is that the type of dogs that were taken from African and called 'Basenji's' no longer exist, as their core population did not freeze in time, even if the Avongara and Lukuru pups are direct relatives to the dogs that were exported, they've been exposed to environmental pressures, periodic shifts genetic frequency which means that they are no longer exactly the same.

From my limited experience I think it is more about a convenience to have something to pee up rather than any other reason. My boy did this to me in the ring once when he was about 7 months old when we were standing awaiting assessment - in shock I raised my arms in horror, forgetting that I was attached to the poor lad with a short show lead and so inadvertently he got rather jerked. This seems to have had the effect of teaching him peeing on me is not acceptable, just as peeing in the house etc is not acceptable.

My young male Basenji would like to approach every dog he sees, but if on the lead should I let it happen, chances are it would end in hackles rising and some Basenji swearing - because he is on the lead he is not able to control the situation and approach according to doggy etiquette and so he gets anxious. It is nothing to do with guarding me, he feels anxious as he cannot move as he needs. I'd be just the same if I was tightly tethered in a busy bar or pub and wasn't able to dodge the drunken leery patrons and iffy chat-ups lines!

If we are in a situation where I cannot keep space between me and the other dog - eg walking towards another dog on a narrow pathway - before my guy starts getting stressed, I just pick him up and tuck him under my arm. I don't have to bother saying anything, he relaxes and is happy to observe the situation, knowing he will not be put in a threatening position. This will not work for every dog - some dogs get foolishly brave if picked up and more agitated. However whilst I consciously stay relaxed with him under my arm I still hold the lead and I am always very aware of the other dog as we pass by, and make sure the dogs pass by away from the side that I'm carrying my boy on.

You might might find this is helpful whilst you work on the a more permanent solution with training/behaviour modification as you don't want to allow any dog to continue practising bad behaviours if you can't avoid coming in close contact, but it does depend on how he reacts when picked up as to whether its appropriate for your guy.

My boy is the same… play with me... chase me.... and a playful nip to the butt usually gets the game going in the direction he wants! Obviously with my other dog, a younger Ridgeback male this is no problem, they both know the game. However I rarely let him interact with dogs we don't know.

Whilst the vast majority of dogs understand its a game, the vast majority of dog owners don't. When I do let him play with known dogs (our main play group is a mix of Border Collies and Groenandals of both genders) I have had people (who do not have a dog present) come up to our group and complain about my Basenji to the other dog owners (who are fine and are happy to let their dogs play with him) because they can see the very obvious nipping. The nipping has never drawn blood nor distress but the majority of people simply do not see the nip it in the context of play.

And has been said before, the other problem with letting dogs play in a dog park situation is that you just do not know how well adjusted and socialised the other dogs are - you only need one dog that doesn't speak dog properly to throw a happy and relaxed group dynamic into turmoil and potentially lethal situation.

My old sighthound mix had been there and done it all, and I knew she would just exit a group if a dog didn't speak dog properly in a park situation. My Basenji, younger and male, is far more likely to get himself more involved in trouble and hence I do not put him in a position where is likely to get out of his depth. Who knows, as he gets old and wiser (I live in hope), I may give him more 'responsibility' but not at the moment, it is not worth the risk to him or other dogs.

I just love it when folk say Mr Milan can't be all bad as he says you need to feed, exercise and give a dog affection!!!!

Jeepers! They are the MOST basic requirements for caring for any sentient beings - how Mr Milan can get any kudos for stating that is beyond me. I learnt that in nursery school when we had to look after the gerbils.

It is also beyond me that anyone can be surprised that a dog given a well-balanced diet, is given appropriate daily exercise and human contact affection is more likely to be calm/relaxed/happy/receptive to human interaction than a dog that is fed poor diet, not exercised and ignored.

Helena you made a wise decision to stop watching TV all those years ago, as it seems the majority of the Western world has lobotimised itself and lost the ability of 'common sense'.

I would like to give a shout out to Jane Killon, Ian Dunbar, Ray Coppinger, Jean Donaldson, Susan Garrett, Lesley McDevitt and Kay Laurence who among my current favourite reads/DVDs when it comes to dog behaviour and/or training.

Apologies, rant over…. I'm obviously in need of some exercise and the poor diet of 3 coffees per day is doing me no good!

Wouldn't go near it! Particularly as he advocates and sells his version of a prong collar - an adversive way to prevent a dog from pulling - and not very successful at that.

Try using methods that have actually been proven - scientifically and not by marketing spiel!

Great website for finding info is www.dogstardaily.com loads of free stuff to read and watch too.

Basically there are no short cuts, good training and manners take time, but if you learn to enjoy the process rather than focus on the results you enjoy and treasure you spend with your B learning together and then the finished behaviour/trick/exercise is just the icing on the cake.

@doodle:

I'm based in mid-Devon and would be interested in a South West meet-up if anyone fancies it?

Count me in - I'm in mid-Cornwall!

Whilst you are getting her health checked out I would go to her, make no eye contact, don't speak to her or touch her, but let her out into the garden/ slip her lead on and take her out (whatever is appropriate) and give her chance to pee. You are facilitating her being able to get to pee - nothing else, so be neither friendly nor mean, completely neutral.

i find that not rewarding the Basenji with eye contact, praise etc it helps prevent the whining be rewarding by getting attention from you and thus increasing its frequency, but allows the animal to relieve itself if necessary. I've had a couple of times when this has happened with my boy - I've reacted instantly to his whines with taking him out (and when I was living in a 7th floor apt this was no easy feat) on each occasion he immediately pee'd and then went straight back into his crate to sleep for the rest of the night. To be honest, if he was comfy he'd hate going out into the cold night unless it was absolutely essential!

Thank you for all your good wishes. I still can't quite believe it myself. Tadgh had done well in breed in Sydney, but never got out of Group so I was not expecting anything, and as hounds were the last Group to finish we went straight on to do BIS, so fortunately I didn't get a chance to get nervous and ruin everything.

It certainly was a day I'll treasure - and can't wait till I get to see to the 'posh' photos - although I'll be wishing why I hadn't bothered to do my hair and make-up that day!

Too cute! Love the girl and her waggy tail, hope she managed to get someone to play with her!

So wish I could pop over for some puppy cuddling!!! Congratulations and hope they continue to thrive.

@lisastewart:

Went to another rally trial in the thunderstorms tonight, Xander earned his second Q. He was the only hound entry of the 32 dogs and held his own with the border collies and GSDs. Not to be outdone, Trog is now going thru rally class with our eyes on 4 days of rally trials over labor day at a show we are attending for the whippet specialty.

Good to see a Basenji giving those BCs and GSDs a run for their money!!! Well done you and Xander! Looking forward to hearing more of your successes in the future.

Not only did my Tadgh manage to 'come' at our first agility lesson yesterday and went over the poles and not chase bunnies or go play with the other dogs.. but it got better as the weekend went on. Today he was in great form and at a local All Breeds Open Show in Devon - he went all the way to BIS :) At only 13 months I'm delighted at how well he showed himself.
Thank you too to Benkura who had lent me a show lead of hers to try out - if you think I'm giving it back…..

@NerdyDogOwner:

Eh..okay, but dogs have a different language than humans….you do know that right?

You might not be aware of it, but when YOU (human) enter a room with strangers, you actually do give off a body language depending on your personality. Aggressive, confident, submissive...etc.
You might be a confident person, and go right in and say "Hello". Others will stand off to the side by themselves. Some will gradually move closer etc. Does not mean one way is (as you put it) the "normal" way.

Dogs have different personality's too. Some are insecure and will roll on their backs instantly, others will run in with confidence and start playing.

It's a shame you see rolling on the back as a bad sign. Something it most definitely is not.

I highly suggest getting the The Language of Dogs DVD.

Er yes I do know that dogs have different body language. Sarah Kaljnas' dvd, 'The Language of Dogs' is excellent and I bought it after listening to her present at the APDTA conference last year. I do not make direct comparisons to dog and human interactions but try to use them as analogies.

But when entering a dog park with 10-20 dogs running about I do not know those dogs individually , so I cannot correctly interpret each of their displays. Nor can I watch multiple dogs, I have to go on overall impression. Which I why I say multiple dogs 'having' (and this is key) to show bellies combined with dogs showing stiff 'dominant' postures causes me concern.

I have never said showing bellies by itself is a bad sign.

I have also added that this is my choice to exercise my dogs daily in off-leash in less densely dog populated areas, so I hardly think I am coming across as neurotic owner who does not let their dogs interact with other dogs, but I try to ensure that anytime my dogs have interactions with other dogs, and that its a positive experience for the dogs we meet as well as my own.

With apologies to OP for taking this thread off topic.

@NerdyDogOwner:

Hardly means that there is an overly dominant/aggressive / poorly socialized dog present at all. It's the dog telling the others his/her intentions and making sure the others are aware. You are being very overly protective or cautious.

ROLLING OVER
When a dog rolls over on his back with his belly exposed and his legs in the air, he's being submissive. If done in front of another dog, he's saying, "You're the boss and I don't want to fight."

But in the same way as when I go into a park/ room full of strange people I don't start by saying 'Please don't hit me, I don't want a fight' , I say 'Hello' and expect the same in return. Which is the same with well socialised normal dogs. Therefore I will not go to, or stay in, an area where there is a lot of dogs exhibiting their bellies/ dogs showing stiff 'dominant' postures. If there is a lot of butt sniffing, play bows, play fights great, but not the other.

I have exercised my dogs on and off leash in public places all their lives - but I choose those places with care, and I think I have social well balanced animals who fortunately have never been involved in any dog fights be they victim or aggressor. Sadly many people cannot read their dogs, nor have enough control should things start going awry so I personally feel prevention is better than a dog fight.

I'm sorry you having aggression issues on the bed and sofa. Have you read Jean Donaldon's 'Mine' which is all about resource guarding? My short answer would be, that if your dog cannot behave politely when given treat/toy/privilege its removed. Therefore no access to the bed or sofa.

I start all my animals off with limited access to the house, using puppy pens/ crates and as they learn the household rules I gradually increase their free access to areas of the house and if invited to human furniture. If they abuse the privilege their access is removed immediately. As I have cats and have had various hunting hounds living me from pups, fosters and rescues this is essential for their safety - but the cats have to abide by the rules too! I am lucky in that I generally live by myself so it is a very consistent environment that is provided for the animals.

@annimon:

I was just responding to the bit about dogs only roll others when they are going to kill and that I didn't think it was true. I shouldn't like a new owner, seeing playing rolling as the beginning of a kill. I always hold my dog on his side, not his back. I certainly don't slam my dogs down and didn't say that.
I've held my temper trantum kids on my lap until the anger passes and it's worked for me. My children couldn't copntrol their own anger when they were young and neither can a puppy. The difference being that my children have many years to learn and my puppy could end up euthenised if he displays this angry agression outside the home.I haven't had to negotitate, threaten or isolate to get results with my humans. I've never used a pinch collar on a dog and never will. He walks in a harness, so not even a collar pull. The only devices I use are my hands in a non agressive way. Perhaps restrain would be a better word. As for a puppy not wanting to see me as another dog, well that just might be the only way he can view me on such new aquaintence. I don't believe puppies understand the subtleness of different creatures but who is in charge and who he can be in charge of :)
As I said I didn't wish to be conflicting, but only that first statement made me react and respond. Of course discipline and reinforcement work together. Best wishes

Please do not think I was attacking you - I am sorry if it came across as that. I was collecting several bits from different posts and responding to them in my post.

@NerdyDogOwner:

I have to agree with annimon. starrlamias statement is wrong.

Dogs roll on their back during play and to show submission. If a dog wants to kill, it will go for the kill head on, never trying to get the dog on his back….that's just a waste of energy.

However, if there is a disagreement or lack of respect, the dog will put him/her down on it's back to show his/her dominance. This usually happens with very little actual biting/attacking, it just looks more violent than it is.

At the dog-park I see rolling on the back all over the place, and it's 100% safe and during play. Some will even enter the park and instantly fall on it's back as the others approach him/her, to show they mean no harm and view the others as alpha.

As for that "create seperation anxiety" bit, that part I disagree with annimon.

I would not be very happy going to a dog park where multiple dogs are 'having' to show submission by rolling on their backs frequently. That would indicate to me that there is an overly dominant/aggressive / poorly socialised dog present as it is an extreme greeting requirement.

If its preceded by the play bow and part of play fine… under other circumstances I would not stay there with my dogs.