A link with some info:
From another chat list:
For a dog that forms cystine crystals or stones, some important things to consider are:
1. The more water they drink, the better.
2. The more access to potty breaks they have (not having to "hold it" for long periods of time) the better.
3. The more fluid in their diets the better (this is the REAL advantage of a raw diet for dogs w/ cystinuria - more fluid!)
4. Cystine stones (unlike many other types) tend to form when urine pH is abnormally acidic. Monitoring pH and altering diet to maintain
a slightly more alkeline-than-normal pH can help some cystine stone formers.
5. Avoid feeding too much cooked or processed poultry
6. For males, neutering may help prevent reoccurances (although not true for all breeds - there are some numbers out there for Mastiffs,
I believe, that show a GREATER incidence of cystine stone formation
in neutered males).
If raw is not an option, I would contact the likes of The Honest Kitchen and see which of their foods they would recommend, with the addition of ground raw sirloin as the meat base. The added benefits of The Honest Kitchen is you have to reconstitute with water which would increase the water content.
Another way to increase water content is their product Ice Pups or similar. Mix with water and freeze into ice cubes the dogs like to eat.
In thinking this through a bit more today, and studying Johnny's picture and seeing stripes (my opinion of course) vs. banding of red hairs or bleed through, as well as pictures of Boston Terriers that look black/white but are in fact brindle, with very little red coming through, one possibility we have not considered is that Johnny could in fact be a very heavily brindled basenji and not black/white as originally thought. Will be even more interesting now to see what he produces in this breeding. Keep the group posted please, Arlene. Thank you.
My (admittedly) simple understanding:
Buckwheat = black/white = his genes are black/red - he is not pure for dominant black since he produced a red offspring when bred to a black/white
Damisi = black/white - her genes are black/red - she is not pure for dominant black since she produced a red offspring when bred to a black/white.
We also know Damisi can not carry brindle herself.
Sire (Wili) is black/brindle (we know this b/c he produced a trindle offspring when bred to a red dam); Dam (Kimaji) is red.
Wili (sire) can only pass along one of his e-locus genes (where black and brindle hang out) either black or brindle can be passed, not both while the dam passes along her red gene.
If sire passes his brindle gene combined with dam's red gene, Damisi would be brindle in color. If sire passes his black gene, combined with dam's red gene, Damisi will be black (black is dominant to red).
To make the gene pair, only one gene can come from Wili - either black or brindle and one from Kimaji - red and we know Damisi is phenotypically a black who has produced both black and red offspring - therefore we can correctly conclude Damisi is a black/red, not a black/brindle/red.
She can not carry the brindle gene which means she does not have the brindle gene to pass on to her son, Johnny.
The end result - Johnny could be pure for black (one dominant black gene from dad, one from mom so no chance of reds.) Or Johnny could be a red factored black, getting one red gene from either mom or dad. Or Johnny could be a red AND tri factored black, getting one red from either parent and a tri gene from either parent since Buckwheat has produced a tri and Damisi has a trindle littermate.
All that said, i DO see what appears to be brindling in his coat, and knowing basenjs, perhaps they have not read the color genetic pages as we have. Far be it for me to ever say never. Only time will tell, assuming enough of a breeding sample is doen. Fascinating color options, even without the brindle in the mix. Good luck with the babes.
Is anyone in the house on female estrogen patches, creams or gels? If yes, this could be a side effect from her having contact with the hormones.
Eating oftentimes stimulates the bowels. I would feed him prior to going out on the evening walk. To me, 3/4 cups twice daily seems like a lot of food for a basenji; two signs of eating more than needed is large volume of stool or frequent BMs; I am not sure he is exhibiting frequent BMs in the proper sense since in truth he is not defecating the same number of times he is eating in a single day (in this case - twice daily BMs). If you feel he is in good condition (should be able to see and feel ribs easily with your fingertips without need to dig) I would perhaps feed him more of his meal in the am, less in the pm but always feed before the walk. If you feel he is in too good of condition, I would decrease his food consumption overall by 1/4 cup twice daily (to 1 cup daily) again feeding him before the evening walk to help stimulate the bowels.
A way to keep him from learning pooping equsls the end of fun, always extend the walk for another 20 minutes or so after he defecates. Only exception is if it is raining and he wants to go in, then it becomes the opposite, he is rewarded with returning home only after he produces. Also-have you put his house training on command? If not, I would start teaching that, this will help those times when he is not concentrating on his duties.
Lastly, I would tether him to you at night so that he does not continue to exhibit bad behaviors. Do you have a balcony? It yes, pee pads on the porch for those late night excursions. Or you can, for a month or two, not for life - crate him at night so he relearns to hold his bladder/bowels until a more favorable time. Once you have reprogrammed him on this, then do the tether for a few months, then try it without either and see how he does.
Not all states require reporting.
Thyroid depletion can effect both liver and seizure threshhold; have his thyroid levels been checked? If not, that might be a good place to start. I personally think your veterinarian's rule outs are a bit out of the bell curve without further information.
Could also try a head halter/gentle leader so you can control the head better - redirecting the dogs head away from the stimulus.
Managing it is the most impportant tool you have; you should know the triggers and what to avoid and then work on redirection while the triggers go by.
A muzzle, while a good tool, can also be misconstrued by others to eqaute to an agressive dog which could back fire and have serious repercussions should someone want to remove the dog from the neighborhood. Best to work with a behaviorist so you can show the neighbors you are taking his issues seriously.